Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Chocolate Shop: Debauve & Gallais


20 East 69th Street (bet. Fifth and Madison Avenues)
212-734-8880
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/

After yesterday’s Restaurant Week lunch at Café Boulud (more on that tomorrow), we took a stroll down Madison Avenue to revisit Debauve & Gallais.

Debauve & Gallais landed in NY by way of Paris in the fall of 2004. It seems that their goal was to proudly establish themselves as the most expensive chocolatier in this city. At the current price of $140/lb., we think they’ve accomplished that! This tiny shop, just off Madison Avenue on E. 69th Street, seems more like a jewelry boutique than a chocolate business. On display are all sorts of signature Debauve & Gallais packaging: leather boxes made to look like ancient books, fancy tins, and their signature blue, gray and gold boxes that were once the exclusive provenance of French royalty. With a little effort, you will spot the chocolate.

Debauve & Gallais dates back to 1800 when Suplice Debauve, opened a pharmacy in Paris that dispensed chocolates. This original shop is still in operation on Paris’ left bank at 30, rue des Saint-Pères, and makes a rewarding stop if you are ever touring the neighborhood.

Oh, the chocolates. Yes, they are good. Quite good. They are classic, French (mostly) dark chocolates, flown in weekly from Paris. The all-chocolate Palet Debauve & Gallais with its gold leaf seal is superb. We also liked ones filled with ground hazelnuts, caramel, and almond nougat with pistachio. The least expensive assortment we could find is $143 for a box of 35, which is roughly one pound. Gift boxes are literally hundreds of dollars, much of the price going towards the packaging. You can also buy individual pieces (minimum of four) at the aforementioned $140/lb. So, go ahead. Hand over a $20 bill, and treat yourself to a few fine French chocolates. You might even get some change back. Perhaps a small price to pay to feel like a king or queen of France for a few minutes.

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