Restaurant Week: Café Boulud

20 E 76th Street (bet. Madison and Fifth Avenues)
212-772-2600
http://www.danielnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Daniel Boulud. We hadn’t been to Café Boulud since the new chef, Gavin Kaysen, took over the kitchen, and thought Restaurant Week was the perfect time to try out the new menu.

At our lunch on Tuesday, the promotional lunch ($24.07) offered three choices for each course. There were two selections of wine offered at $24.07, a great deal. We selected the red, a South African merlot from DeGrendel, which was excellent with the duck terrine entrée and the lamb main course.

The dining room was packed and all abuzz. At one of the power tables by the windows, director Mike Nichols was kibitzing with a Tobey Maguire look-a-like. Who knows maybe it was Spider-Man? At our table against the wall both of us were looking out and it was like taking in a NY restaurant show. We are convinced that portions are smaller during Restaurant Week, but the total meal was extremely satisfying. Gavin Kaysen made a very impressive debut to us, and if history repeats itself he will be running his own NY establishment some day

Chocolate Shop: Debauve & Gallais

20 East 69th Street (bet. Fifth and Madison Avenues)
212-734-8880
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/

After yesterday’s Restaurant Week lunch at Café Boulud (more on that tomorrow), we took a stroll down Madison Avenue to revisit Debauve & Gallais.

Debauve & Gallais landed in NY by way of Paris in the fall of 2004. It seems that their goal was to proudly establish themselves as the most expensive chocolatier in this city. At the current price of $140/lb., we think they’ve accomplished that! This tiny shop, just off Madison Avenue on E. 69th Street, seems more like a jewelry boutique than a chocolate business. On display are all sorts of signature Debauve & Gallais packaging: leather boxes made to look like ancient books, fancy tins, and their signature blue, gray and gold boxes that were once the exclusive provenance of French royalty. With a little effort, you will spot the chocolate.

Debauve & Gallais dates back to 1800 when Suplice Debauve, opened a pharmacy in Paris that dispensed chocolates. This original shop is still in operation on Paris’ left bank at 30, rue des Saint-Pères, and makes a rewarding stop if you are ever touring the neighborhood.

Oh, the chocolates. Yes, they are good. Quite good. They are classic, French (mostly) dark chocolates, flown in weekly from Paris. The all-chocolate Palet Debauve & Gallais with its gold leaf seal is superb. We also liked ones filled with ground hazelnuts, caramel, and almond nougat with pistachio. The least expensive assortment we could find is $143 for a box of 35, which is roughly one pound. Gift boxes are literally hundreds of dollars, much of the price going towards the packaging. You can also buy individual pieces (minimum of four) at the aforementioned $140/lb. So, go ahead. Hand over a $20 bill, and treat yourself to a few fine French chocolates. You might even get some change back. Perhaps a small price to pay to feel like a king or queen of France for a few minutes.

Wine Shop: Moore Brothers Wine Company

33 E 20th Street (bet. Broadway and Park Avenue South)
866-986-6673
www.moorebrothers.com

When we walked into the Moore Brothers wine store, you can’t help but notice Moore warm-up jackets hanging up and available because the entire store is chilled for proper wine storage. Another interesting feature was the children’s play area with books and a PC sectioned off so the adults can browse and taste without interruption.

But, the wine itself sold at Moore Brothers is the most unique characteristic of the store. They do not stock popular labels. Every bottle is personally selected by the owners, who over the years have developed a rapport with a number of small wine producers. Since we like to think of ourselves as experienced wine consumers, we were shocked that we couldn’t find a single bottle we remembered drinking in the entire store. Determined, we finally recognized the Domaine Daniel Rion label. We believe we had it at Bernard Loiseau-La Cote d’Or restaurant in Burgundy.

There is currently a 10% discount on every bottle in the store until Feb. 4th, so we picked up two bottles that were reasonably priced before the discount. One was a Chotes-du-Rhone “la Friande” Domaine Jaume 2006, ($11); the other, a red from Coteaux du Languedoc “Prestige” Chateau Des Hospitaliers 2005, ($12.50). We also selected a Brut Rose Delavenne et Fils NV Champagne ($50) that we will open on Valentine’s Day. There was also an interesting selection of wines from Germany and Italy--the kind of bottles you only see when you visit these countries.

At checkout, Jill the amiable sales person, printed out the tasting notes for all three. She also registered us, and now on their website after we log in, the system keeps tabs on everything purchased. Moore Brothers is a serious wine buying place and a fine addition to the NY wine scene.

Restaurant Week: Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue (at 24th Street)
212-889-0905
http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

On Friday, we felt like we hit the Restaurant Week jackpot with our $24.08 lunch at Eleven Madison Park.

The promotional menu offered four choices in both the appetizer and entrée offerings and three different desserts. Everything single thing we ordered was terrific. Impeccable ingredients, perfectly cooked. While the food looked deceptively simple, the flavors and textures made each dish sing. We bet some people quibbled about the small portion size—is this a RW occurrence or is this the chef’s idea of how we should be eating? It didn’t bother us, but fair warning.

Service was flawless from the moment we walked through the door. We know that Danny Meyer, the NY king of hospitality, strives to delivers nothing less, but still there seemed to be something extra special at work here. At once attentive and relaxed, with a sincere desire to make every diner enjoy their meal. And looking around the room, it seemed that everyone was having a great time.

Event: The Science of Chocolate

New York Academy of Sciences
7 World Trade Center,
(250 Greenwich St. at Barclay St., 40th Floor)
Wednesday, February 13
6:00-7:30 pm
http://www.nyas.org/

Calling all brainy chocolate lovers! The New York Academy of Sciences is hosting, “The Science of Chocolate,” a lecture and tasting on February 13 at 6 pm. Admission is $10 for members and $25 for nonmembers ($15 for students). Registration is required, which can be completed by following this link:
http://www.nyas.org/events/eventDetail.asp?eventID=10322&date=2/13/2008%206:00:00%20PM

Restaurant Week: Lunch at Anthos

36 West 52nd Street (bet. 5th and 6th Avenues)
212-582-6900
http://www.anthosnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

NY Restaurant Week is always a terrific incentive for us to try new pricey places or revisit old favorites, especially if a new chef has made a mark. And if we can catch up with some old friends, it’s better yet.

This year, we kicked off our winter restaurant week challenge on Tuesday with a $24.07 lunch at Anthos, an “haute” Greek that landed in Midtown last year. There were a number of compelling reasons that we choose Anthos: one star in the 2008 Michelin Guide, a 25 food rating in the 2008 Zagat, and one of the top 10 newcomers in 2007 as reported by Frank Bruni in The New York Times.

So while our hopes were high, the results were disappointing. As what unfortunately can happen with these restaurant week promotions, you are left feeling that you ate at a different restaurant than the one you’ve heard so much about.

Overall, the food was mostly good, and the braised lamb shank was especially tender and flavorful, yet there really was nothing memorable about any of our choices. And the one rather significant complaint was a main course of grilled arctic char came out of the kitchen bordering between room temperature and lukewarm. On the plus side were some really nice and unusual Greek wines by the glass ($9) that made for a pleasant complement to the promotional menu. The wait staff were all top-notch professionals, although we did feel a bit rushed—we were done with three courses and the check was on the table in under an hour.

Anthos regularly offers a $28 three-course lunch menu and perhaps these selections may be a better barometer of what the kitchen is capable of offering. But we guess that the best foods are had by ordering off the regular menu, and there are no bargains here. And with our disappointing start, we doubt we’ll head back any time soon to try our luck.

Chocolate Shop: Charbonnel et Walker at Saks

611 Fifth Avenue (bet. 49th and 50th Streets)
8th Floor
866-478-7586
www.charbonnel.co.uk
www.saksfifthavenue.com

The British landed at Saks in the fall of 2005 and went directly up to the 8th Floor. Charbonnel et Walker, established in 1875 and chocolatier to Her Majesty, now have a shop and café at this classic Midtown department store. The chocolate counter, where you can put together a personalized gift box or buy just one chocolate ($2.25 each), has dozens of classic bonbons and truffles to choose from.

The biggest seller is the “pink champagne” truffle, and it just may be the prettiest truffle that we’ve seen. Flavored with marc de champagne, the chocolate center is enrobed in white chocolate, flavored with a hint of strawberry, and lightly dusted with sugar. Other unique selections include the violet- and English rose-flavored creams covered in dark chocolate. And if you’re in a hurry, there is a vast selection of prepackaged boxes.

Keep in mind that Charbonnel et Walker makes traditional, sweet English chocolates. Perfect for your favorite Anglophile or doting aunt, we don’t recommend them for someone who craves an intense bitter chocolate experience. Service is extremely helpful, and during our last visit we were offered several samples.

The Chocolate Café
Alongside the shop is a small café where weary shoppers can recharge. Cups of hot chocolate ($5.25) can be paired with classic English sweets such as scones and puddings. Desserts are made in the kitchen directly behind the chocolate counter and are displayed on a moving conveyer belt that circles the café counter.

Wine Shop: Garnet Wines & Liquors

929 Lexington Avenue (bet. East 68th & 69th Streets)
212-772-3211
http://www.garnetwine.com/

It is fair to say Garnet Wines & Liquors is well known in NY for their large selection of wines at discount prices. We have been receiving their monthly newsletter, The Garnet Good News, for more than fifteen years, and have done lot of our shopping from the advertised specials. We remember when we would phone in our orders before wine shop websites were ever in vogue.

While in Paris last summer, we had a conversation with Juan Sanchez, the Miami native who owns La Derniere Goutte (the last drop), (www.pattylurie.com/html/goutte.html)
a local wine store not far from our apartment in the 6th arrondissement. Juan loves visiting NY, and going around to the different wine shops. He mentioned Garnet as one that impressed him. While at others he remarked, “A lot of the clerks don’t know anything.”

One of the reasons Garnet is so good is JR. Over all the years JR has never given us a bad recommendation on French reds. All you have to do is tell him your price range and in an instant he is off through the store grabbing bottles. It is not often you find him on the floor because of other responsibilities, but go in the back and see if he is there. You will not be disappointed.

Garnet has a 10% case discount and free delivery is offered based on the price of the case and your zip code. The details are on their website. During the holiday season this is one NY store that fills up fast, so we always try and get there when they open at 9:00 a.m. or Sundays at noon.

Free Chocolate Class at Williams-Sonoma

10 Columbus Circle (60th Street @ Broadway)
(212) 823-9750
www.williams-sonoma.com

The Williams-Sonoma shop at Columbus Circle is offering a class in chocolate on Sunday, February 3, from 10-11:30 AM.

On a recent visit to the Time Warner Center, we stopped in at this flagship shop, and saw a poster describing this and a few other classes. This free class promises to “teach basic cooking techniques and share ideas for simple yet decadent chocolate desserts. Learn what tempering is, evaluate quality of ingredients in your chocolate and how to make basic ganache.”
You can sign up by speaking with a sales associate at the store or by calling the number above.

Restaurant: Amy Ruth's

113 West 116th Street (bet. Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd & Malcom X Blvd)
212-280-8779
http://www.amyruthsharlem.com/
http://www.zagat.com/

We traveled up to Harlem last Saturday and had lunch at Amy Ruth’s. According to the latest Zagat survey they are rated the # 1 Southern food establishment. The friendly manager, Patrick told us the home-style southern cooking originated in South Carolina. We frequently visit SC, and quite frankly, the food was better at Amy Ruth’s than any meal we have eaten down there.

Amy Ruth’s is a rather small place, but expansion plans are in the works. The crowd included plenty of families from the neighborhood. On Friday and Saturday it is open around the clock, and it gets extremely crowded on Sunday mornings after the church services.

The waitress was congenial but the service was somewhat slow. They start everyone with a delicious warm cornbread. Then we ate fried chicken, waffles and barbeque spare ribs. The portions were big yet inexpensive. We thought the spare ribs were excellent and had plenty of meat falling off the bone. You can choose from numerous side dishes and we especially liked the mashed potatoes, collard greens, and yams.

Our meal ended with pineapple-coconut cake and the red velvet cake. The entire lunch cost $46.44. Next time we will skip the dessert and save the calories. Then again, we did have our eye on the peach cobbler.

Food Shop: Fresh Direct for Artisanal Cheeses

www.freshdirect.com

One more recommendation about the fabulous Artisanal cheese that we wrote about last week: you can get a limited selection from Fresh Direct. Shortly after this online grocer started selling Artisanal cheeses, we tried a few of the French selections. We were stunned at how good they were, arriving in pristine condition and perfectly ripe. The Epoisses from Burgundy was running off the plate. Subsequent orders with other varieties confirmed that this was no fluke. After our last order a few months ago, we agreed that what we had right here in New York rivaled the cheeses that we buy at Barthélémy, considered by many to be the best cheese shop in Paris.

We were reminded about Artisanal from Fresh Direct after going to a dinner party at Drs. Pedro & Vivian on Saturday evening. Sometime before the music went louder and the dancing started, the tray of mouth watering cheeses came out. That’s when our lovely hostess (and cardiologist!) admitted that she ordered them from Fresh Direct.

Wine Shop: Zachy’s Wine Auction @ Restaurant Daniel

http://www.zachys.com/
http://www.danielnyc.com/

We decided to try out the Zachy’s winter wine auction last Friday at restaurant Daniel on East 65th Street. It was our first time going, and we didn’t know exactly what to expect.

The day started at 8:30 AM with a complimentary breakfast supplied by Chef Daniel Boulud’s kitchen. While enjoying the meal, Zachy’s president, Jeff Zacharia, greeted us warmly, and told us, “It moves along quickly, and if they don’t see your paddle just holler out, BID.”

Prior to getting underway, the auctioneer, Fritz Hatton, explained that a19% buyer’s premium and the appropriate state sales tax is added to every winning bid. We found that the catalog is essential in order to follow the action. We printed it out in advance from the website, but it could have been purchased on site for $30. Also helpful, there was a wireless internet connection in the room.

There were about 60 of us sitting around at tables, and about a half dozen staffers from Zachy’s taking phone bids. A total of 1,307 lots were available that day, grouped by consignor and then wine region. At one point midmorning, Fritz announced that six bottles were being opened for tasting. We went over and tried a 2002 Burgundy form Echezaux and a 1966 Chateau Ausone. The ultimate winning bids for these wines were $95 and $119, respectively, which included the 19 % buyer’s premium but not the sales tax.

We went to this event seriously interested in a six-bottle lot of Clos de Tart, a grand cru we buy when we travel to Burgundy. But, there were four bidders and it was gone in an instant. The next thing we knew, it was noon, Fritz was up to lot 412, and we had seen enough for our first auction. It was a fascinating and enjoyable NY wine experience. We will return to the next Zachy’s wine auction in the spring.

Chocolate Shop: Dylan's Candy Bar

1011 Third Avenue (at 60th Street)
646-735-0078
http://www.dylanscandybar.com/

In a league of its own, Dylan’s Candy Bar defies easy categorization, offering old fashioned treats in a thoroughly modern setting. It’s a kaleidoscope of a candy shop, brightly colored, packed with what seems like thousands of choices, wildly popular and always crowded. At first glance, it seems that the shop’s charms are aimed at preteen girls, but after wandering around, you begin to admit that it actually appeals to kids of all ages.

One wall on the main level is devoted to a serve-yourself chocolate section with dozens of varieties of old-fashioned treats covered in chocolate—huge malted balls, marshmallow bars, jelly rings and oddly addictive Rice Krispies, just to name a few. Scoop out want you want, and at $10.99 per pound you don’t need to worry about breaking the bank. They are very good and fresh, and we think the chocolate is the highlight of the shop. You’ll also find 14 varieties of two-ounce Belgian chocolate bars ($2.75 each) and downstairs there’s a terrific variety of classic chocolate candy bars that have been popular for decades. For you “older” kids, seeing them just may bring back a childhood chocolate memory and put a smile on your face.

Remembering Jean-Claude Vrinat

An old food friend of ours passed away this week. His name was Jean-Claude Vrinat, the owner of Taillevent, the famous grand restaurant in Paris. To have dined in his company was to be treated like royalty. He had a presence about him and a special gift that went beyond hospitality. Monsieur Vrinat was a legend.

At every visit, we always felt his warmth. It was like he placed us on his VIP list and considered us his friends. But everyone got this same special treatment from him. Even when it was years between visits, he always remembered us and asked about NY.

Over the years, we ate at Taillevent as often as our schedule and budget allowed. It may have been to celebrate a birthday or an anniversary. We went one Christmas Eve, just the two of us, and another time with a French chef friend who came in from the countryside with shopping bags filled with homemade confiture and bounty from his garden. Then one time we invited a husband and wife, both accomplished physicians, who love to eat fabulous food and know great wines.

A few times (in stronger dollar days) we treated ourselves to lunch at Taillevent right before going to the airport before the long flight home, and everything became more tolerable. It was at Taillevent that we ordered our first bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild. There was also a lunch where we selected an expensive Château-Grillet from the Côtes du Rhône that was corked. Monsieur Vrinat came by, took a sniff, and nodded like the expert that he was. He took extraordinary pride in his wine list. There was no one better.

This past summer after his restaurant was undeservingly demoted from three stars to two by Michelin, our meal was never better. When we told him this, he simply smiled and thanked us. We will miss him a lot the next time we dine at Taillevent.

Restaurant: Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-725-8585
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

Last Thursday, looking for a lunch spot to warm us up on that bitterly cold January day, we headed down to Murray Hill to Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro.

The place was bustling. Appealing decorated in the style of a deco period Paris brasserie, the room was sparkling and well maintained. The menu, of course, was brimming with choices using cheese in a star or supporting role. And there are 160 wines available by the glass (no bargains here), and an large section of the menu is devoted to flights of cheese with optional paired wines. We wondered why though, with all of those wines, there was no sommelier around to help with recommendations.

We naturally opted for two dishes that were heavy on the fromage. The macaroni and cheese ($18.50) was creamy and delicious—made with three cheeses (Emmenthal, Beaufort and Parmesan), bits of prosciutto di Parma and a light but crunchy layer of breadcrumbs on top. The addictive grilled cheese sandwich ($14.50), made with English cheddar was subtly enhanced by a bit of smoked bacon and ultra thin wedges of apple. Both dishes came with excellent mesclun salads (a larger one with the mac & cheese), and a scattering of homemade potato chips also jazzed up the sandwich platter. Our shared dessert, a chocolate tart with carmelized pear and salted caramel ice cream ($10.50) was a winner. Service was perfunctory and somewhat overly efficient.

We’d happily go back to Artisanal and maybe next time we’ll tear ourselves away from the cheese selections and try one of their classic bistro dishes.

Food Shop: NY’s Best Cheeses--The Cheese Counter at Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-212-532-4033
877-797-1200 (Cheese Center Orders)
http://www.artisanalcheese.com/ (web orders)
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/ (bistro)

We think that the Artisanal Premium Cheese brand and operation has, hands down, become NY’s best source for high quality cheese. By building a state-of-the art facility on W. 37th Street, they have been able to properly mature, age and store cheese like no one else in NY. There is a cheese school there too, but no retail shop. Rather, orders are taken over the phone or on their website. But you can shop in person at their one retail establishment, not so much a shop, but a counter nestled in the back of Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro in Murray Hill.

We ate lunch last week at this restaurant (more on that tomorrow), and stopped by the attractive cheese counter to buy a few cheeses to take home. Here we met fromager Sean Faeth, who was happy to make recommendations and describe the cheeses in detail. A terrific, if expensive, bet are the raw Swiss cheeses (some with prices approaching $40/lb.), but you should feel confident putting yourself in Seth’s hands and asking for his recommendations based on your preferences and budget. He told us that you can walk in to buy cheese at any time the restaurant is open, and that he is generally on duty during the day, Mondays through Thursdays.

Wine Shop: Trader Joe’s

138 East 14th Street (bet. Irving Place and 3rd Avenue)
212-529-6326
http://www.traderjoes.com/

If you are the type that looks for a bargain when you shop, then Trader Joe’s is the place for you. Do not come here with a particular label in mind because chances are you will not find it. But if you have time to browse and you know your wine prices, give Trader Joe’s a try. Your shopping cart is likely to fill up quickly with some good deals.

Last month we paid a visit to Trader Joe’s and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne was $36.99. Right around the corner at Union Square Wines the same bottle cost $5 more. In their limited style, Trader Joe’s only had the Moët and VC lines on their shelves, while Union Square had plenty of French champagne choices.

Yesterday, we saw two favorites from France. One was a red Burgundy from Volnay for only $19.99, and a Pierre Sparr Reisling for just under $10. You would be hard pressed to find better prices anywhere in NY. This brings us to Trader Joe’s famous “Two Buck Chuck” line. According to Adam who works the floor, Trader Joe’s has an exclusive on the leftovers from the giant Charles Shaw winery in California. At $2.99 a bottle, Adam steered us to both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon as great buys. Depending on inventory, there are usually other grape varietals available as well.

One warning is to ask first about the delivery charges. It all depends on where you live. For us it was $19.95 a case, so we happily carried six bottles in two neatly packed brown bags home.

Chocolate Shop: January "Whites" Sale at Leonidas (Web Only)

485 Madison Avenue (bet. 51st and 52nd Streets), 212-980-2608
3 Hanover Square (bet. William and Hanover Streets), 212-422-9600
http://www.leonidas-chocolate.com/
Café locations: www.manoncafe.com/newyork.htm

Last Thursday, we stopped in at Leonidas, a favorite chocolate shop on Madison Avenue, and we found out about a web-only sale to help you along with your New Year’s resolutions to spend less money and eat more chocolate. For a limited time, you can get a one-pound mixed box of Manon Blanc and Manon Café chocolates for the astonishing low price of only $20 (regularly $32, with a price increase expected very soon). Details can be found at this link: www.leonidas-chocolate.com/manon-page.html

Leonidas is a real find the New York chocolate lover. You’ll be rewarded here with some of the most attentive service of any chocolate shop in the city, and the excellent, always fresh Belgian chocolates are a terrific buy.

The small, sparkling shop in Midtown has recently been updated with a new look, and it’s better than ever. The store is managed by Jacques Bergier, a tireless French-born chocolate maker’s son, who is absolutely committed to pleasing his customers, many of whom are regulars. The two biggest sellers are both made with a lightly flavored coffee buttercream: the Manon Café with a hazelnut on top and enrobed in milk chocolate, and the Manon Blanc, which is covered in white chocolate. Most of the fillings are made with traditional ingredients such as fruits and nuts, but occasionally more unusual flavors like chili make an appearance at the shop. Also terrific are the orangettes, dark chocolate covered orange peels and a newer addition, the citronettes, dark chocolate covered lemon peels. Both are addictive.

Leonidas packaging is suitably attractive for gift giving, but if you are so inclined you can spend a few extra dollars and get a more elaborate presentation. But you don’t need to go and buy a whole box though, since the staff happily accommodates customers who pop in for a piece or two for a boost at any time of the day.

In recent years, trends and economics have made the addition of three financial district cafés/shops a sound business venture for Bergier, who says, “In New York now, you can’t live on chocolate alone.” So for those lucky to be downtown, you can have a complimentary piece of Leonidas with your Illy coffee! The cafés also sell a good selection of individual chocolates and gift boxes, with the Hanover Square location offering the most extensive selection.