NY Food and Wine: Food Shopping in Paris

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Food Shopping in Paris

We celebrated Bill’s birthday (a Valentine’s baby, but we did it on the 16th) with his family by hosting a dinner at our apartment on rue de Seine. We always love food shopping around our Left Bank neighborhood (in the 6th arrondissement), and beyond, so this—a celebration and visitors from New York--was a terrific excuse to indulge.

We started out on Saturday morning going to the Place Maubert outdoor market on Boulevard St. Germain in the 5th. Here we picked up seasonally fresh and beautiful watercress and endive for a salad (to be dressed with walnut oil from nearby LeBlanc on rue Jacob). Then some Ratte potatoes and haricot verts to be served with the main course. And we couldn’t leave without scooping up some meaty olives from the family that comes up every week from Provence. Unlike the New York greenmarkets in the dead of winter, the array of produce at the Parisian markets is much more varied and bright this time of year.

From there, we hopped on the metro to go to the 14th, to see our butcher, Hugo Desnoyer. And while he is always extremely busy running this shop and taking orders from many of the very best restaurants in Paris, “Butcher Hugo” is always happy to stop what he is doing and come out from behind the counter to greet and chat with the crazy Americans (us!). We left with a fabulous looking piece of beef to roast, something similar to, but not exactly like a shell steak here. We also took a small slab of absolutely delicious pork rillettes, which we knew would be nice to spread on some Mulot bread and eat with the provençal olives while sipping our champagne aperitif.

Now, over to the 7th, and to the holy grail of cheese, Barthélémy. A perfectly aged Époisses made in Burgundy from raw milk, and a dry goat from the Loire were carefully selected for the cheese course, and we added in a wedge of an outstanding Roquefort to go with the aforementioned salad.

Returning closer to home, we stopped in the Marche St. Germain, a covered market, to check in with one of neighborhood wine merchants. The owner of Bacchus et Ariane is always glad to make recommendations, and this time he led us to a lovely champagne and a fine premier cru Chablis, both good values from small productions. The main course red Burgundy, Clos du Tart, came up from Bill’s personal collection in the cave. Dessert, picked up at Gérard Mulot, was one of the shop's signature creations, the Amaryllis, which is like a giant macaroon filled with pastry cream and studded with raspberries around the sides. (The photo above is Mulot's Valentine's display.)

After all of this shopping, the preparation and cooking seemed minimal. And the end result was a meal that the entire family savored from beginning to end, acknowledging that the cross-Atlantic voyage wasn't so bad after all.

Returning Monday to a NY state of mind.

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About Us

Bill Gillen and Patricia MacKenzie are a husband and wife team, who published a monthly newsletter, “The NY Food Letter” in the 1990’s, have written food, wine and travel articles for the Daily News, and are co-authors of The New York Chocolate Lover’s Guide (City and Company 1996). They live in New York City, Columbia County and Paris.

Our Story
We were both born in Brooklyn and in our adult lives have lived in Brooklyn, the Upper West Side, Hell’s Kitchen and now Carnegie Hill, and for the past 20+ years, we’ve always ready to go to any neighborhood in any of five boroughs to find something good to eat. Some people might just go shopping to Ikea in Elizabeth New Jersey and return home. Not us. We come back via the Bayonne Bridge just so we can stop at Denino’s on Staten Island for pizza. When we go on a family trip to the Bronx Zoo, we have to eat at Dominick’s and then go shopping on Arthur Avenue picking up prosciutto rolls and other Italian treats. And on a regular weekday, we’ll go miles out of our way and walk the long avenues in Hell’s Kitchen just to buy a loaf of bread from Sullivan Street Bakery.

We are avid home cooks. On a daily basis, we love shopping for the best ingredients, and don’t think of it at all as an effort, but as an enjoyable activity. We carefully plan our special celebrations sometimes by mapping out an extravagant homemade meal, or more often by making reservations at an exceptional restaurant, including a mix of New York classics and the latest trends.

In 1986 we went to France on our honeymoon. We were in the Champagne region and ate at the then Michelin three-star restaurant, Boyer Les Crayeres. It was literally a life altering experience. How could food be this good? Up to that point, we never ate anything that was even closely comparable. Thus started a love affair with France that has only grown through the years. Our time spent there has educated us enormously on what it takes to deliver good ingredients and outstanding meals. We’ve traveled and eaten in every region in that country and since 2000 have had the good fortune of owning a tiny apartment in the St. Germain neighborhood on the Left Bank in Paris that gives us the opportunity to eat and cook like Parisians, when our schedules permit. (The spoken language is another story…)

Along the way, we became interested in wine. In 2000, we had a blast studying with Kevin Zraly in New York City at his renowned wine course. We have been to many of the major wine areas in France, Italy and California, and every year go on a buying trip in Burgundy. But much more of our education has come from simply buying and drinking on a regular basis. We’ve shopped at dozens and dozens of wine shops in New York, and always converse with sommeliers at restaurants, asking for their recommendations and learning from them. We are rarely disappointed, and more often are delighted with a new discovery. So, while we don’t claim to be experts on the more technical points of wine, we do know where we like to shop, what stores offer what, etc.

We feel fortunate to live in New York City and that’s in no small part to all of the people who have dedicated their lives to feeding the rest of us. Ethnic family food stores that have been around for generations, a master chocolatier from France who opens up shops around the city, a chef who has worked in the best of places in the Far East and Europe but has decided that Manhattan is where he wants to hang his toque, these are just a few of the many resources that we have at our doorstep. And we love it.

What we put on this website is highly personal. We really like to write about things that we enjoy, places that we’d like to go back to, meals simple or grand that are exceptional, and shops where the experience is fun and not a simple transaction. It’s really not our style to be edgy or nasty. Too many people work too hard, put in long days so the rest of us can be well fed. So, for the most part we only include enthusiastic recommendations and omit those places that don’t make the mark. But sometimes we do feel the need to issue a few cautionary remarks.

So, we hope that from time to time, the people and places that we write about might make your food and wine life a bit more rewarding.

NY Food and Wine

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Food Shopping in Paris

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