Restaurant: Weekend Brunch at Tía Pol

205 Tenth Avenue (bet. 22nd and 23rd Streets)
212-675-8805
http://www.tiapol.com/

We enthusiastically recommend this tapas bar for brunch. On a Saturday morning a few weeks ago, we walked in right at opening time (11 AM) and were the first to arrive. In the ensuing hour, more customers wandered in, but the place was never more than half full.

The brunch dishes we tried that morning were amazingly good. Something as deceptively simple sounding as a watercress salad with ham and poached egg ($9) was perfection. The ham was a sublime Serrano, enhanced by a wonderfully fresh and fruity olive oil. Scrambled eggs with chorizo ($8) sounds so basic, but at Tía Pol, it’s something else. The eggs, nearly orange in color from the chorizo juices, were cooked to a perfect creamy consistency with the sausage giving just the right amount of spice to the dish.

The long, extremely narrow room is spare, with only about eight high tables, each with a few stools. At the bar, there are a few more seats where you can view many Spanish wines displayed on shelves. Rumor has it that Tía Pol is impossibly busy at night during peak times, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. Our waitress told us that Sunday night can be a calmer time to come. We’ll happily return to try the tapas as a way to end the weekend on a high culinary note. And without a doubt, the calm setting, delicious food and reasonable prices make it a repeat weekend brunch destination for us.

Wine Shop: Le Dû’s Wines

600 Washington Street (bet. Leroy & Morton Streets)
212-924-6999
http://www.leduwines.com/

We had the opportunity to meet the engaging sommelier Jean-Luc Le Dû several times during the years he worked with Daniel Boulud. To us, his knowledge of wine seemed bottomless and his enthusiasm was contagious. In 2005, he opened his own wine shop on a quiet strip of Washington Street in the way West Village.

A few weeks ago, we stopped in at Le Dû’s Wines. It’s a spacious, almost industrial place, kept to a cool 65 degrees. And the back room, where the highest of the high end wines (many bought from estates) are stored, is even cooler, around 55 degrees.

There is an emphasis on small producers from the classic wine producing regions around the world. Service is extremely helpful; salespeople will happily spend time talking about what they like and why. They will also do a search if you're looking for a rare bottle. And, while we've never tried it, we understand that they will conduct private tastings.

Prices are high. Delivery is free in the immediate local area; and to other neighborhoods with purchases over $200. A 15% case discount is available.

Fee-based classes are usually scheduled on Wednesdays, and free tastings are offered on Saturday afternoons from 3 to 6 pm. Details are on the website.

Road Trip: Burdick Chocolates

47 Main Street
Walpole, New Hampshire
800-229-2419
http://www.burdickchocolate.com/

We missed a posting on Tuesday, March 11, because Pat was traveling up to New Hampshire, stopping in Walpole along the way. About four hours north of New York City, this New England town is home to Burdick Chocolates, one of our all-time favorite chocolate makers anywhere in the world.

Larry Burdick started his business in Red Hook, Brooklyn, in 1987 and later moved to East 93rd Street in Manhattan. In 1993, he moved with his family to this village in the southwest corner of New Hampshire and set up operations there. While we have been fans of Burdick chocolates from the start, we can honestly say they’ve never been better.

Burdick views chocolate as part of the whole gastronomic experience—a nice ending to a special meal. He claims that the way to make quality chocolates is very simple: Just use the best ingredients and sell the product at its freshest.

Extracts and flavorings are taboo. Instead, coffees and teas are brewed, fresh fruits are cooked. Nuts come from California and Turkey, vanilla beans from Mexico, milk and cream from local dairies. The chocolate base, Valrhona from France, is widely considered the best available. Burdick chocolates are cut and shaped by hand, which according to the chocolate maker, gives a more pleasant eating experience.

When you open a box of Burdick chocolates, the first surprise is their appearance. They are delicate, imperfectly shaped, and tiny—about 80 pieces per pound. More astonishing is how wonderful and fresh they taste. Each piece melts in your mouth as the flavors unfold. In the quarter-pound box ($15) that we bought, there were about 20 varieties. There seems to be a subtle surprise in every bite. Take the Richelieu, a milk and dark chocolate interior with cherry liquor, cherries and an unexpected hint of cumin seeds.

Burdick packaging is always lovely and the business has expanded to include nice choices for wedding favors and corporate gifts, all the while maintaining top quality. Special attention is given to all holidays, from expected ones like Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day to smaller ones like St. Patrick’s Day and Chinese New Year.

The Main Street location in Walpole is home to a restaurant, café and chocolate shop. But you don’t have to take the trip. With a click of your mouse, you can have Burdick chocolates delivered to your door in about a day’s time.

On Spring Break

We'll be back on Monday, March 31.

Food Shop: La Guli Pastry

25-19 Ditmars Blvd., Queens
718-728-5612
http://www.laguli.com/

Today, March 19th, is Saint Joseph’s Day. In Italy, they celebrate the feast of San Giuseppe by enjoying a special pastry, which here in NY is referred to as a St. Joseph Cake. There are bakeries all over town that sell these tasty Sicilian treats, but one of our favorite sources is the La Guli Pastry Shop, located in the Astoria section of Queens since 1937.

There are two kinds of St. Joseph Cakes. Both are made with fried zeppole dough; the difference is in the filling. One is called the sfinge, and it contains a sweetened ricotta cream filling that is also found in the cannoli—another famous Italian pastry. The sfinge at La Guli’s is substantial, and is studded with chocolate chips and topped with a slice of candied orange peel along with a cherry. The other St. Joseph cake has a custard cream filing and it too is topped with a cherry. The La Guli website has a nice picture of both kinds in the pastry section. They sell for $2.75 each and every year around this time, we have an excuse to sample them both in commemoration of St. Joseph’s Day.

Wine Shop: Appellation Wine and Spirits

156 Tenth Avenue (bet. 19th and 20th Streets)
212-741-9474
http://www.appellationnyc.com/

This past Saturday, while wandering around Chelsea, we stopped in at Appellation Wine and Spirits. This inviting, boutique-like shop, which opened in 2005, specializes in wines with organic, biodynamic or sustainable origins. About 70% of Appellation’s inventory carries one of these designations.

Shopping here can be a pleasant experience for both oenophiles and non-oenophiles alike. With its clean, modern layout and well-labeled racks, you could happily spend serious time here browsing. Shopping with someone not so interested? A pair of chairs and an assortment of magazines are available for those who would rather sit it out. A child in tow? No problem. Chances are he will be offered a seat at a table and be given a toy to play with. We found the service to be friendly, informed and helpful, and the more we looked, the more we wanted to drink organic.

As often the case with small, specialized shops like this, the selection is concentrated in more expensive wines, with few bottles under $15. But we did find the Chono Carménère 2006 for $12.99. We opened it last night, and were very satisifed with this robust, dark, fruity red from Chile. We plan to go back for more.

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Free tastings are usually held on Saturday afternoons from 3 to 6 PM. A 10% case discount is offered and delivery is free with purchases over $100.

Chocolate Shop: Easter Treats at Li-Lac Chocolates

40 Eighth Avenue (at Jane Street)
212-924-2280

Grand Central Terminal Market Hall
212-370-4866

http://www.li-lacchocolates.com/

If you’re looking for good, old-fashioned, made-in-NY Easter candy this week, you can’t go wrong with a visit to Li-Lac Chocolates. And do try to go to the Village location, both for the festive display and wider selection. This past Saturday afternoon, we were beckoned into that shop by the giant chocolate bunnies and treat-filled baskets in the window. Inside, the shelves were brimming with dozens and dozens of Easter goodies, including bags of jelly beans, different flavored filled eggs, and every size and shape bunny imaginable.

This NY chocolate institution has been around since 1923. When we wrote our original chocolate book, we remember visiting at the old Christopher Street location and watching the candy being made in the back, starting in an ancient copper cooker, and ending with the chocolates cooling on a long, moving conveyer belt. Three years ago, the retail shop moved to its current location (with an additional outpost already in Grand Central), and the factory relocated to the Sunset Park neighborhood in Brooklyn.

Some of our standard Li-Lac favorites are the chocolate-covered orange slices, nut fudge, buttercrunch, and freshly made chocolate-covered cherries ($1.85 each). Much of what is sold by weight is in the range of $25/lb. Li-Lac has a fantastic collection of molds, including antique metal ones from Germany, so no matter what time of year, you’ll be sure to find chocolate in a shape to suit the occasion.

Recipe: Irish Soda Bread

This recipe has been in Bill's family for decades and is a traditional St. Patrick's Day treat for us.

4 cups flour
1 ½ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
¾ cup sugar
1 cup raisins
1 TBS. caraway seeds
2 TBS. melted butter
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 ½ cups buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Add the sugar, caraway seeds and raisins. In a separate bowl, mix together the remaining ingredients and stir into the flour mixture. Mix until all the flour is moistened. Shape into a round loaf and place in a greased two-quart casserole dish. Cut across the top with a knife. Bake for one hour.

Food Find: Fried Dumplings

102 Mosco Street (bet. Mott and Mulberry Streets) No phone or website

The best part about jury duty is lunch hour. You have Chinatown directly behind the courthouse, and most of the establishments offer dirt cheap lunch specials. It is fun to sit at large round communal tables, and the food arrives super fast--so have your chopsticks in hand ready to eat.

A few weeks ago, while walking around and looking for a crowded place, the absolute best lunch value in NY was discovered. On tiny Mosco Street, right behind the Church of the Transfiguration, there is a four-stool hole-in-the-wall that sells fried pork dumplings at the unbelievable price of five dumplings for $1. They are a nice size with a bit of scallion, and you can watch the two ladies make them as you eat. A bottle of hot sauce and a vinegar solution are the only condiments. Local shop workers, court officers and attorneys come and go and take-out is very popular. Our advice is to keep your plate because it’s likely that you’re going back for five more!

The lady with the serving ladle also sells 30 frozen dumplings for $5, which we will try the next time when we have our ice cooler with us.

Food Shop: Chocolate Bread at Amy's

Available Only on Saturdays at all three locations:
672 Ninth Avenue (bet. 46th & 47th Streets) 212-977-2670
75 Ninth Avenue (bet. 15th & 16th Streets) 212-462-4338
250 Bleecker Streetat (at Leroy Street) 212-675-7802
http://www.amysbreads.com/

One recent Saturday morning, we stopped in at Amy's Bread in Hell's Kitchen. This tiny shop is always busy, often with the fast-moving line going out the door. Right away we noticed a large dark round loaf on display, with a sign sticking in it, "Decadent Chocolate Cherry Bread, $6.95." Yes, New York chocolate lovers can have chocolate bread, even if it's only one day a week. It's quite good, flavored with Valrhona cocoa and studded with dried cherries and chunks of Callebaut chocolate pieces. And, David Chasen, the production manager at Amy's swears it makes outrageous French toast! Sounds like a good breakfast idea to us.

Wine Expo Report

On Saturday afternoon, we stopped in at the 1st Annual New York Wine Expo. Despite the pelting rain and $95 admission fee, seemingly enough wine lovers decided it was worth the trek to the Javits Center to meet winemakers and sample some 600 wines. The aisles were quite crowded and at some stations, you had to wait for a taste. And don’t get us started trying to understand the mobs lining up to taste a cube of Cabot’s cheddar cheese. If you wanted to attend one of the special seminars offered, you would have needed to ante up another $30-35. But there were a few things of interest.

City Winery will be opening in the fall of this year in a 21,000 square foot building on Varick Street. Starting with a $5,000 membership fee and then adding in production charges, the winery will help you buy grapes, work with their winemaker and create a barrel of your very own wine, which will yield about 250 bottles (you can create the label too). Figure on around $30 per bottle for something simple. http://www.citywinery.com/

Aeration for better tasting wine seems to be a trend. Taste of Purple sells wine glasses with a patented “dimple” that greatly increases the aeration when the wine is swirled. http://www.tasteofpurple.com/ And the Wine Enthusiast said a big seller lately has been the Vinturi Wine Aerator for $39.95. Through this six-inch hand-held device, you’re able to mix in air as you pour wine. http://www.wineenthusiast.com/

Francis Ford Coppola has introduced a new line of wines called, “Director’s Cut” that are made from grapes grown in the “very best vineyards in Sonoma County,” according to the rep who was pouring tastes. We tried the Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alexander Valley, which was quite good. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel will also be sold under this new label. www.rossobianco.com/#wines_dc

NY Wine Weekend

This evening kicks off with the 1st Annual New York Wine Expo at the Javits Center. Tickets are a whopping $85 for Friday evening and $95 for Saturday afternoon. But you can save $10 by buying tickets online before 5 pm today. http://www.wine-expos.com/wine/ny. The organizers advertise that there will be 170 wine producers and you can sample over 600 products from around the world.

This may be a bit much, even for us, so we decided to find out what might be more our style—a few wines and $0.

The charming Spanish wine shop in the East Village, Tinto Fino is hosting a tasting of three styles of sherry served with samples from Abraço, a new neighborhood coffeehouse (sort of) that sells a variety of sweet and savory treats on Saturday from 4 to 7 pm. http://www.tintofino.com/

Le Dû’s Wines in the West Village will be pouring Bernard Moreu’s Chassagne Montrachet 2005 and Saint Aubin 1er Cru “En Remilly” 2005 on Friday from 6 to 8 pm, and then four Australiain wines on Saturday from 3 to 6 pm. http://www.leduwines.com/

Astor Wines in the landmark De Vinne Press Building in Noho is hosting its fourth annual Natural Wine Event on Saturday from 3 to 5 pm, with tastings from six natural French winemakers. And on Friday evening, from 6-8 pm, they are hosting a triple header: Scandinavian glogg, French Classiques (from Gascony), and Northern Italian wines. http://www.astorwines.com/

Union Square Wines & Spirits is holding an International Women’s Day Tasting on Saturday from 2 to 5 pm. They will be serving wines from female winemakers and producers from all over the world—Germany, Austria, Italy, California, Oregon, Chile, Argentina, and beyond. http://www.unionsquarewines.com/

Start off the weekend with a pop! The Chelsea Wine Vault has scheduled a Gosset Champagne Tasting on Friday from 4 to 7 pm, and then is offering a “Top Ten Tasting” on Saturday from 2 to 5 pm. http://www.chelseawinevault.com/

Upper Eastsiders don’t have to leave the hood. This Friday from 5 to 8 pm, McCabe’s will serve wines from Metropolis Imports and on Saturday from 4 to 7 pm wines from Gabriella Imports. The shop is at 1347 Third Avenue on the corner of 77th Street, telephone 212-737-0790 (no website). They usually have 2 to 4 wines open and offer a 10% discount on the wines tasted that day.

Have a pleasant weekend!

Restaurants: A Tale of Two Pizzas

Adrienne’s Pizzabar
54 Stone Street (off Broad Street)

212-248-3838
http://www.adriennespizzabar.com/

Grimaldi’s Pizzeria
19 Old Fulton St. (under the Brooklyn Bridge)
718-858-4300

http://www.grimaldis.com/

Early last Friday evening, we ventured down to the Financial District and tried the super-thin crust pizzas at Adrienne’s Pizzabar—they were excellent! If you’re a fan of crusts that are more snappy wafer than chewy bread, you owe it to yourself to try an individual pie here, available with about a dozen different toppings. Reportedly, this place is packed and crazy during lunchtime and later at night, but during our experience in the early evening, we found it pleasantly quiet with attentive service.

It turned into a pizza weekend for us, because on Saturday, we found ourselves driving over the Brooklyn Bridge and in Dumbo. We decided to stop in at Grimaldi’s Pizzeria, where we hadn’t been for years. It was lunchtime and there was a long line waiting outside to get in. We obediently took our place, and about 35 minutes later, we were seated at a communal table. The classic pie came with a good and fresh tomato sauce, standard mozzarella cheese, and a crust slightly charred with a pleasant flavor from the coal-fired ovens. It was actually thicker and chewier than we remember. Perhaps we were cold from waiting outside for so long, but while good enough, we agreed that the Grimaldi pie wasn’t worth a special trip or a long wait outside.

Wine Shop: Hudson Wine Merchants

341½ Warren Street, Hudson, NY
518-828-6411
Periodic Free Deliveries to Manhattan
www.hudsonwinemerchants.com

We belong to that group of New Yorkers affectionately known as “weekend warriors.” For the past dozen years, we’ve traveled back and forth to Columbia County when our schedule permits. Over this time, we’ve happily witnessed the revival of the little city of Hudson, and we cheered in 2004 when Hudson Wine Merchants opened up in town.

It’s a charming shop—exposed brick walls, sleeping dog on the floor, and an attractive array of wines arranged mostly by region. Whether we need a bottle for a simple dinner or are planning a more elaborate party for a group, we gladly put our trust in co-owner Michael Albin for his recommendations. He loves, loves to talk wine, and we think does an excellent job of stocking his shelves with interesting selections at good values. It’s difficult to think of another wine shop owner who is as enthusiastic, pleasant and accommodating as Michael, and that extends to his policy of periodically delivering to Manhattan addresses at no charge and providing a 10% discount on cases.

This Thursday, March 6, Michael will be coming into the city. Look at the website and see what you might like. Better yet, give him a call and ask what he might recommend.

Chocolate Shop: Mondel Chocolates

2913 Broadway (bet. W. 113th and W. 114th Streets)
212-864-2111
http://www.mondelchocolates.com/

Pass by Mondel, and if the door is open, you’ll be treated to an irresistible whiff of chocolate. Some of the goodies sold here are actually made right in the back of this little shop, which has been in the same family since it opened in 1943. While most of the customers are students from Columbia University and residents of Morningside Heights, there are chocolate-loving New Yorkers who will travel uptown just to shop here. Around holidays, the line stretches out the door.

Our favorite time to visit is right before Easter, when the shelves are brimming with plush bunnies and all the traditional makings for an old-fashioned Easter basket. Don’t miss the bittersweet chocolate-covered coconut eggs and the small milk chocolate bunnies that are filled with a terrific caramel. If you’re shopping for a Passover gift, Mondel has a lovely selection of nuts and dried fruits that can be paired with their kosher chocolates.

Year-round favorites include dark chocolate-covered orange peels, champagne truffles, fudge, butter crunch, and “turtles”, which are nut, caramel and chocolate clusters. Stop by anytime, and you can pick up a few pieces of your favorites. Paula, the manager who has been there for 17 years, will put your selections in a little brown paper bag. And a treat from Mondel is more than affordable. During a quick stop in last week, three yummy treats set us back only $2.88.

Food Shopping in Paris

We celebrated Bill’s birthday (a Valentine’s baby, but we did it on the 16th) with his family by hosting a dinner at our apartment on rue de Seine. We always love food shopping around our Left Bank neighborhood (in the 6th arrondissement), and beyond, so this—a celebration and visitors from New York--was a terrific excuse to indulge.

We started out on Saturday morning going to the Place Maubert outdoor market on Boulevard St. Germain in the 5th. Here we picked up seasonally fresh and beautiful watercress and endive for a salad (to be dressed with walnut oil from nearby LeBlanc on rue Jacob). Then some Ratte potatoes and haricot verts to be served with the main course. And we couldn’t leave without scooping up some meaty olives from the family that comes up every week from Provence. Unlike the New York greenmarkets in the dead of winter, the array of produce at the Parisian markets is much more varied and bright this time of year.

From there, we hopped on the metro to go to the 14th, to see our butcher, Hugo Desnoyer. And while he is always extremely busy running this shop and taking orders from many of the very best restaurants in Paris, “Butcher Hugo” is always happy to stop what he is doing and come out from behind the counter to greet and chat with the crazy Americans (us!). We left with a fabulous looking piece of beef to roast, something similar to, but not exactly like a shell steak here. We also took a small slab of absolutely delicious pork rillettes, which we knew would be nice to spread on some Mulot bread and eat with the provençal olives while sipping our champagne aperitif.

Now, over to the 7th, and to the holy grail of cheese, Barthélémy. A perfectly aged Époisses made in Burgundy from raw milk, and a dry goat from the Loire were carefully selected for the cheese course, and we added in a wedge of an outstanding Roquefort to go with the aforementioned salad.

Returning closer to home, we stopped in the Marche St. Germain, a covered market, to check in with one of neighborhood wine merchants. The owner of Bacchus et Ariane is always glad to make recommendations, and this time he led us to a lovely champagne and a fine premier cru Chablis, both good values from small productions. The main course red Burgundy, Clos du Tart, came up from Bill’s personal collection in the cave. Dessert, picked up at Gérard Mulot, was one of the shop's signature creations, the Amaryllis, which is like a giant macaroon filled with pastry cream and studded with raspberries around the sides. (The photo above is Mulot's Valentine's display.)

After all of this shopping, the preparation and cooking seemed minimal. And the end result was a meal that the entire family savored from beginning to end, acknowledging that the cross-Atlantic voyage wasn't so bad after all.

Returning Monday to a NY state of mind.

Back from Paris: Restaurants & The Exchange Rate

Forgive this delay, but we are simultaneously recovering from jetlag and the aftermath of the dismal dollar. After our plane landed at CDG on Valentine’s Day, we headed straight to our apartment in the sixth arrondissement, dropped off our bags and went down the block to the local café. Two coffees and a hot chocolate set us back more than $20. From that point on, in order to enjoy ourselves, we simply refused to convert prices in our heads, although it would have been easy enough to multiply everything by 1.5!

We had a terrific lunch at L’Ami Louis on the following Sunday afternoon. We always call this place the Peter Luger’s of Paris—high prices, gruff service in a dark, masculine room. But the chicken, like Luger’s steak, can’t be beat. We’ve been here several times, and it always seems that the room is at least half filled with Americans. This time, we were the only ones.

Dinner the following night at Taillevent was incredible. Never has the food been better, and maitre d'hôtel, Jean-Marie Ancher has taken over the dining room with incredible aplomb. He is at once attentive, charming and humorous. If you’re traveling that way, keep in mind that they do have a 70-euro lunch, which helps ease the currency pain.

A few more Paris food highlights tomorrow before we return to our New York roots.

Going to Paris

We're leaving in a few hours for Paris. If Noos, our French internet provider, is cooperating, we'll post from there. Otherwise, we'll see you when we return on February 25.

Wine Shop: Italian Wine Merchants

108 E 16th Street (bet. Park Avenue and Irving Place)
212-473-2323
http://www.italianwinemerchant.com/

For some time now, we wanted to visit the Italian Wine Merchants. Two of the owners are famous restaurant people. Chef Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich own Del Posto (among numerous other places) where last month, we sampled two interesting Italian wines. Since they were being offered on the restaurant week menu, we knew they were reasonably priced. Then when the waiter told us we could buy them at IWM, we were practically on our way.

The store only stocks Italian wine and is spacious because with everything sold, there is only one bottle on display. One of the managers, Debbie, explained how all the wine is properly stored downstairs. After you make your selections they are sent up on a dumbwaiter while you pay. Another unique thing is that the shelves are arranged from lower to higher priced wines.

So right by the front door, was the Tuscan red we enjoyed called, Lo Mozza Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi 2005 ($16.50). It turns our Chef Mario, partner Joseph and his mother Chef Lidia Bastianich own Lo Mozza. The white was a Bastianich Tocai Friulano 2006 from the other Bastianich-owned winery in the Friuli region of Italy ($15.95).

The shop gives an 8% case discount and free shipping in Manhattan. On the website there is loads of information. This is another case of wine becoming a passion more than a business. Now on our Saturday trips to the Union Square Greenmarket, we will need to make a detour over to the IWM and see what is going on.

Manhattan Fruitier for Burdick Chocolates

105 E. 29th Street (bet. Park and Lexington Avenues)
800-841-5718
http://www.manhattanfruitier.com/

Manhattan Fruitier is a little known retail source for terrific Burdick Chocolates (http://www.burdickchocolate.com/). More of a warehouse, this spot on E. 29th Street is in the business of assembling and delivering some of the best looking fruit baskets around. But they get frequent shipments of Burdick Chocolate (based in New Hampshire). You can walk in during business hours on Monday through Friday, ask at the front desk, and buy the assorted chocolates that come in handsome wooden boxes in a few different sizes. An ideal gift, perhaps for that special man in your life on the 14th?

Six Stops on the Way to Valentine’s Day

With Cupid just around the corner, we think you can’t go wrong with a gift from any of these NY chocolate shops.

The packaging is the simplest at Kee’s Chocolates in Soho, but perhaps the flavors are the most complex. A sure-fire hit for your serious chocolate lover. Do go to La Maison du Chocolat in Rockefeller Center or on the UES if your sweetheart is a Francophile. These exquisite chocolates are flown in from Paris and epitomize the best of sophisticated French chocolate making.

Downtown in the Financial District, Christopher Norman has been busy not only making the chocolates but creating special packaging for their Valentine’s treats. This year, the signature ballotins are wrapped in pretty pink and silver paper with a jewelry-like garland on top. If you can’t get down there, we’ve seen them at Dean & DeLuca. A gift from Jacques Torres Chocolates, with locations in Brooklyn, Soho and the UWS, is always a treat. For something different, they have packaged their hot fudge sauce as “Love Tonic” and caramel sauce as “Body Butter” in jars with hearts on the labels. Well, just use your imagination…

Vosges Haut Chocolate, with locations in Soho and the UES, is selling a “love tower,” two stacked purple heart boxes, the larger one with exotic truffles and the smaller with yummy caramel toffee. MarieBelle New York, also with two shops, in the same neighborhoods, sells wonderful chocolates in beautiful packaging year round, but for Valentine’s Day, they have special edition ganaches in wild berry and champagne flavors. Try to visit downtown because the Soho shop may be the most romantic chocolate store in town.

http://www.keeschocolates.com/
www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en/address/shops
http://www.christophernormanchocolates.com/
http://www.mrchocolate.com/ (Jacques Torres)
http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/
http://www.mariebelle.com/

Restaurant: Phoenix Garden

242 E. 40th St (bet. Second and Third Avenues)

212-983-6666
No Website

Today is the start of the Chinese New Year, the Year of the Rat. A great way to celebrate is to have lunch at Phoenix Garden. An ideal spot for anyone working in Midtown, it’s the kind of lunch place that moves you in and out quickly and does not take credit cards. It hardly matters because they offer a special two-course lunch menu for around $10.

All the special lunch portions we tried are not big (with the exception of the duck) and the food tastes very fresh. In the 2008 Zagat Guide, they were given a 24 food rating, which is near the top for NY Chinese restaurants. The Cantonese-style cooking is a bit reminiscent to the quality you would find at a good place in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

Beer and wine are not on the menu, so you can BYOB.

Food Shops: Chinatown

In anticipation of the Chinese New Year that begins tomorrow, we’re highlighting three of our favorite food shops in Chinatown.

Kam Man Food Products
200 Canal Street (bet. Mott and Mulberry Streets)
212 571-0300
This is one of the giants in the neighborhood. The first floor has a wide array of ingredients for Chinese cooking and the lower level has an enormous selection of serving dishes and cookware.

Tongin Mart (formerly Chinese American Trading Co.)
91 Mulberry Street (bet. Canal and Bayard Streets)
212-962-6622
This shop is always busy. They have a great selection of noodles, both fresh and dried. Their shelves are well stocked with an extensive selection of condiments and packaged ingredients.

Asia Food Market
71½ Mulberry Street (bet. Canal and Bayard Streets)
212-962-2020
We first found out about this shop from chef Gray Kunz back in 1993 and wrote about it in our newsletter, The NY Food Letter. We’ve returned over and over again throughout the years, and it’s as good as ever. Besides Chinese ingredients, this store carries Filipino, Thai, and Vietnamese and Indonesian food products. Outside they sell fresh vegetables and fruits.

Wine Shop: 67 Wine & Spirits

179 Columbus Avenue (at W. 68th Street)
212-724-6767
http://www.67wine.com/

Back when the Democrats were last in the White House, we lived on the West Side and 67 Wine & Spirits was our neighborhood wine shop. We remember the place before they expanded and moved the red wine to the second floor and kept the whites on the main floor with the spirits.

It is a big store and not much has changed, but they do have a lot of inventory and you need time to navigate through it. Take a look at the cases in the center of the main floor which are the promotional wines. It is best to shop earlier in the day when it is less crowded and the cashier people are not likely to be frazzled. We would try and stay away on the eve of big holidays.

On their website they have a category called wine toys. In their upstairs window there is a nice collection of flasks in all shapes and sizes. The flask with the two spouts would make a nice anniversary gift. The website also lists the sales people by wine specialty, and you can e-mail them with questions and your feedback. We e-mailed a question on a specific grand cru Burundy and got an answer back in a couple of hours which was impressive.

Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland

620 Fifth Avenue (at Rockefeller Center)
212-246-4416
25 East 61st Street (bet. Madison and Park Avenues)
212-751-8482
http://www.teuscher-newyork.com

One could claim that Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland was the birthplace of the ultra fancy truffle in New York. The Madison Avenue shop opened its doors in 1976, and two years later, a branch in Rockefeller Center appeared on the scene.

Teuscher carries at least a dozen varieties of truffles, but their famous champagne truffle outsells by far any one of the others. Ingredients include fresh cream and butter, and yes, real champagne is used in the filing of the house specialty—although the alcohol content is less than ½ percent. They are on the sweet side with a slight kick, and after all these years, they are justifiably still much loved by many NY chocolate aficionados.

Also good are orange slices dipped in dark chocolate and a new addition—chocolate-covered macadamia nuts. Freshness is key to enjoying these chocolates, and the shops receive shipments from Zürich once a week and more often during the December holiday season. If you buy them loose, and by all means, feel free to stop in and buy just one truffle, they are $75 per pound. The champagne truffles are also sold in simple gift boxes in various sizes, with an 8 oz. package (16 truffles) costing $39. Unique to Teuscher are the children’s “fantasy” figures from Switzerland –brightly colored animals and characters that come with tiny boxes attached to hold truffles.

The stores’ decorations, also made in Switzerland, are a big part of the Teuscher shopping experience. Colorful silk and paper flowers, which change with the seasons, are draped everywhere, giving these two little shops a very festive appearances. Buying chocolate at Teuscher is like visiting Santa’s chocolate workshop all year-round.

Classic Super Bowl Snacks

Snacks for Super Bowl Sunday are big business. This week, the supermarkets are filled with all kinds of promotions. We have two old favorites that we like to make. For the kickoff we have ready home made onion dip to go along with a bowl of potato chips. Then by halftime we bake up some “pigs in a blanket.”

The old-fashioned box of Lipton Onion Soup mix is now called, Lipton Recipe Secrets Onion Recipe Soup & Dip Mix. This was because the dip became more popular than the soup. We bought it at the Food Emporium http://www.thefoodemporium.com/ for $1.99. Mix it with a 16 oz. container of sour cream and you are done. Make sure the chips are thick cut or have ridges because regular potato chips can break in the dip

For the “pigs in a blanket” buy the Hebrew National Cocktail Beef Franks ($4.99) http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/getBrand.do?page=hebrew_national
and they get individually wrapped in Pillsbury Crescent Original Dinner Rolls ($3.19) dough. http://www.pillsbury.com/AALL/default.aspx On the Pillsbury website they have the recipe and show how to cut and wrap the franks.

Keep a good eye on them while in the oven, and when they come out all you need is some Guldens Spicy Brown Mustard. http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/getBrand.do?page=guldens And this year it is Go Giants!

Restaurant Week: Café Boulud

20 E 76th Street (bet. Madison and Fifth Avenues)
212-772-2600
http://www.danielnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Daniel Boulud. We hadn’t been to Café Boulud since the new chef, Gavin Kaysen, took over the kitchen, and thought Restaurant Week was the perfect time to try out the new menu.

At our lunch on Tuesday, the promotional lunch ($24.07) offered three choices for each course. There were two selections of wine offered at $24.07, a great deal. We selected the red, a South African merlot from DeGrendel, which was excellent with the duck terrine entrée and the lamb main course.

The dining room was packed and all abuzz. At one of the power tables by the windows, director Mike Nichols was kibitzing with a Tobey Maguire look-a-like. Who knows maybe it was Spider-Man? At our table against the wall both of us were looking out and it was like taking in a NY restaurant show. We are convinced that portions are smaller during Restaurant Week, but the total meal was extremely satisfying. Gavin Kaysen made a very impressive debut to us, and if history repeats itself he will be running his own NY establishment some day

Chocolate Shop: Debauve & Gallais

20 East 69th Street (bet. Fifth and Madison Avenues)
212-734-8880
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/

After yesterday’s Restaurant Week lunch at Café Boulud (more on that tomorrow), we took a stroll down Madison Avenue to revisit Debauve & Gallais.

Debauve & Gallais landed in NY by way of Paris in the fall of 2004. It seems that their goal was to proudly establish themselves as the most expensive chocolatier in this city. At the current price of $140/lb., we think they’ve accomplished that! This tiny shop, just off Madison Avenue on E. 69th Street, seems more like a jewelry boutique than a chocolate business. On display are all sorts of signature Debauve & Gallais packaging: leather boxes made to look like ancient books, fancy tins, and their signature blue, gray and gold boxes that were once the exclusive provenance of French royalty. With a little effort, you will spot the chocolate.

Debauve & Gallais dates back to 1800 when Suplice Debauve, opened a pharmacy in Paris that dispensed chocolates. This original shop is still in operation on Paris’ left bank at 30, rue des Saint-Pères, and makes a rewarding stop if you are ever touring the neighborhood.

Oh, the chocolates. Yes, they are good. Quite good. They are classic, French (mostly) dark chocolates, flown in weekly from Paris. The all-chocolate Palet Debauve & Gallais with its gold leaf seal is superb. We also liked ones filled with ground hazelnuts, caramel, and almond nougat with pistachio. The least expensive assortment we could find is $143 for a box of 35, which is roughly one pound. Gift boxes are literally hundreds of dollars, much of the price going towards the packaging. You can also buy individual pieces (minimum of four) at the aforementioned $140/lb. So, go ahead. Hand over a $20 bill, and treat yourself to a few fine French chocolates. You might even get some change back. Perhaps a small price to pay to feel like a king or queen of France for a few minutes.

Wine Shop: Moore Brothers Wine Company

33 E 20th Street (bet. Broadway and Park Avenue South)
866-986-6673
www.moorebrothers.com

When we walked into the Moore Brothers wine store, you can’t help but notice Moore warm-up jackets hanging up and available because the entire store is chilled for proper wine storage. Another interesting feature was the children’s play area with books and a PC sectioned off so the adults can browse and taste without interruption.

But, the wine itself sold at Moore Brothers is the most unique characteristic of the store. They do not stock popular labels. Every bottle is personally selected by the owners, who over the years have developed a rapport with a number of small wine producers. Since we like to think of ourselves as experienced wine consumers, we were shocked that we couldn’t find a single bottle we remembered drinking in the entire store. Determined, we finally recognized the Domaine Daniel Rion label. We believe we had it at Bernard Loiseau-La Cote d’Or restaurant in Burgundy.

There is currently a 10% discount on every bottle in the store until Feb. 4th, so we picked up two bottles that were reasonably priced before the discount. One was a Chotes-du-Rhone “la Friande” Domaine Jaume 2006, ($11); the other, a red from Coteaux du Languedoc “Prestige” Chateau Des Hospitaliers 2005, ($12.50). We also selected a Brut Rose Delavenne et Fils NV Champagne ($50) that we will open on Valentine’s Day. There was also an interesting selection of wines from Germany and Italy--the kind of bottles you only see when you visit these countries.

At checkout, Jill the amiable sales person, printed out the tasting notes for all three. She also registered us, and now on their website after we log in, the system keeps tabs on everything purchased. Moore Brothers is a serious wine buying place and a fine addition to the NY wine scene.

Restaurant Week: Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue (at 24th Street)
212-889-0905
http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

On Friday, we felt like we hit the Restaurant Week jackpot with our $24.08 lunch at Eleven Madison Park.

The promotional menu offered four choices in both the appetizer and entrée offerings and three different desserts. Everything single thing we ordered was terrific. Impeccable ingredients, perfectly cooked. While the food looked deceptively simple, the flavors and textures made each dish sing. We bet some people quibbled about the small portion size—is this a RW occurrence or is this the chef’s idea of how we should be eating? It didn’t bother us, but fair warning.

Service was flawless from the moment we walked through the door. We know that Danny Meyer, the NY king of hospitality, strives to delivers nothing less, but still there seemed to be something extra special at work here. At once attentive and relaxed, with a sincere desire to make every diner enjoy their meal. And looking around the room, it seemed that everyone was having a great time.

Event: The Science of Chocolate

New York Academy of Sciences
7 World Trade Center,
(250 Greenwich St. at Barclay St., 40th Floor)
Wednesday, February 13
6:00-7:30 pm
http://www.nyas.org/

Calling all brainy chocolate lovers! The New York Academy of Sciences is hosting, “The Science of Chocolate,” a lecture and tasting on February 13 at 6 pm. Admission is $10 for members and $25 for nonmembers ($15 for students). Registration is required, which can be completed by following this link:
http://www.nyas.org/events/eventDetail.asp?eventID=10322&date=2/13/2008%206:00:00%20PM

Restaurant Week: Lunch at Anthos

36 West 52nd Street (bet. 5th and 6th Avenues)
212-582-6900
http://www.anthosnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

NY Restaurant Week is always a terrific incentive for us to try new pricey places or revisit old favorites, especially if a new chef has made a mark. And if we can catch up with some old friends, it’s better yet.

This year, we kicked off our winter restaurant week challenge on Tuesday with a $24.07 lunch at Anthos, an “haute” Greek that landed in Midtown last year. There were a number of compelling reasons that we choose Anthos: one star in the 2008 Michelin Guide, a 25 food rating in the 2008 Zagat, and one of the top 10 newcomers in 2007 as reported by Frank Bruni in The New York Times.

So while our hopes were high, the results were disappointing. As what unfortunately can happen with these restaurant week promotions, you are left feeling that you ate at a different restaurant than the one you’ve heard so much about.

Overall, the food was mostly good, and the braised lamb shank was especially tender and flavorful, yet there really was nothing memorable about any of our choices. And the one rather significant complaint was a main course of grilled arctic char came out of the kitchen bordering between room temperature and lukewarm. On the plus side were some really nice and unusual Greek wines by the glass ($9) that made for a pleasant complement to the promotional menu. The wait staff were all top-notch professionals, although we did feel a bit rushed—we were done with three courses and the check was on the table in under an hour.

Anthos regularly offers a $28 three-course lunch menu and perhaps these selections may be a better barometer of what the kitchen is capable of offering. But we guess that the best foods are had by ordering off the regular menu, and there are no bargains here. And with our disappointing start, we doubt we’ll head back any time soon to try our luck.

Chocolate Shop: Charbonnel et Walker at Saks

611 Fifth Avenue (bet. 49th and 50th Streets)
8th Floor
866-478-7586
www.charbonnel.co.uk
www.saksfifthavenue.com

The British landed at Saks in the fall of 2005 and went directly up to the 8th Floor. Charbonnel et Walker, established in 1875 and chocolatier to Her Majesty, now have a shop and café at this classic Midtown department store. The chocolate counter, where you can put together a personalized gift box or buy just one chocolate ($2.25 each), has dozens of classic bonbons and truffles to choose from.

The biggest seller is the “pink champagne” truffle, and it just may be the prettiest truffle that we’ve seen. Flavored with marc de champagne, the chocolate center is enrobed in white chocolate, flavored with a hint of strawberry, and lightly dusted with sugar. Other unique selections include the violet- and English rose-flavored creams covered in dark chocolate. And if you’re in a hurry, there is a vast selection of prepackaged boxes.

Keep in mind that Charbonnel et Walker makes traditional, sweet English chocolates. Perfect for your favorite Anglophile or doting aunt, we don’t recommend them for someone who craves an intense bitter chocolate experience. Service is extremely helpful, and during our last visit we were offered several samples.

The Chocolate Café
Alongside the shop is a small café where weary shoppers can recharge. Cups of hot chocolate ($5.25) can be paired with classic English sweets such as scones and puddings. Desserts are made in the kitchen directly behind the chocolate counter and are displayed on a moving conveyer belt that circles the café counter.

Wine Shop: Garnet Wines & Liquors

929 Lexington Avenue (bet. East 68th & 69th Streets)
212-772-3211
http://www.garnetwine.com/

It is fair to say Garnet Wines & Liquors is well known in NY for their large selection of wines at discount prices. We have been receiving their monthly newsletter, The Garnet Good News, for more than fifteen years, and have done lot of our shopping from the advertised specials. We remember when we would phone in our orders before wine shop websites were ever in vogue.

While in Paris last summer, we had a conversation with Juan Sanchez, the Miami native who owns La Derniere Goutte (the last drop), (www.pattylurie.com/html/goutte.html)
a local wine store not far from our apartment in the 6th arrondissement. Juan loves visiting NY, and going around to the different wine shops. He mentioned Garnet as one that impressed him. While at others he remarked, “A lot of the clerks don’t know anything.”

One of the reasons Garnet is so good is JR. Over all the years JR has never given us a bad recommendation on French reds. All you have to do is tell him your price range and in an instant he is off through the store grabbing bottles. It is not often you find him on the floor because of other responsibilities, but go in the back and see if he is there. You will not be disappointed.

Garnet has a 10% case discount and free delivery is offered based on the price of the case and your zip code. The details are on their website. During the holiday season this is one NY store that fills up fast, so we always try and get there when they open at 9:00 a.m. or Sundays at noon.

Free Chocolate Class at Williams-Sonoma

10 Columbus Circle (60th Street @ Broadway)
(212) 823-9750
www.williams-sonoma.com

The Williams-Sonoma shop at Columbus Circle is offering a class in chocolate on Sunday, February 3, from 10-11:30 AM.

On a recent visit to the Time Warner Center, we stopped in at this flagship shop, and saw a poster describing this and a few other classes. This free class promises to “teach basic cooking techniques and share ideas for simple yet decadent chocolate desserts. Learn what tempering is, evaluate quality of ingredients in your chocolate and how to make basic ganache.”
You can sign up by speaking with a sales associate at the store or by calling the number above.

Restaurant: Amy Ruth's

113 West 116th Street (bet. Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd & Malcom X Blvd)
212-280-8779
http://www.amyruthsharlem.com/
http://www.zagat.com/

We traveled up to Harlem last Saturday and had lunch at Amy Ruth’s. According to the latest Zagat survey they are rated the # 1 Southern food establishment. The friendly manager, Patrick told us the home-style southern cooking originated in South Carolina. We frequently visit SC, and quite frankly, the food was better at Amy Ruth’s than any meal we have eaten down there.

Amy Ruth’s is a rather small place, but expansion plans are in the works. The crowd included plenty of families from the neighborhood. On Friday and Saturday it is open around the clock, and it gets extremely crowded on Sunday mornings after the church services.

The waitress was congenial but the service was somewhat slow. They start everyone with a delicious warm cornbread. Then we ate fried chicken, waffles and barbeque spare ribs. The portions were big yet inexpensive. We thought the spare ribs were excellent and had plenty of meat falling off the bone. You can choose from numerous side dishes and we especially liked the mashed potatoes, collard greens, and yams.

Our meal ended with pineapple-coconut cake and the red velvet cake. The entire lunch cost $46.44. Next time we will skip the dessert and save the calories. Then again, we did have our eye on the peach cobbler.

Food Shop: Fresh Direct for Artisanal Cheeses

www.freshdirect.com

One more recommendation about the fabulous Artisanal cheese that we wrote about last week: you can get a limited selection from Fresh Direct. Shortly after this online grocer started selling Artisanal cheeses, we tried a few of the French selections. We were stunned at how good they were, arriving in pristine condition and perfectly ripe. The Epoisses from Burgundy was running off the plate. Subsequent orders with other varieties confirmed that this was no fluke. After our last order a few months ago, we agreed that what we had right here in New York rivaled the cheeses that we buy at Barthélémy, considered by many to be the best cheese shop in Paris.

We were reminded about Artisanal from Fresh Direct after going to a dinner party at Drs. Pedro & Vivian on Saturday evening. Sometime before the music went louder and the dancing started, the tray of mouth watering cheeses came out. That’s when our lovely hostess (and cardiologist!) admitted that she ordered them from Fresh Direct.

Wine Shop: Zachy’s Wine Auction @ Restaurant Daniel

http://www.zachys.com/
http://www.danielnyc.com/

We decided to try out the Zachy’s winter wine auction last Friday at restaurant Daniel on East 65th Street. It was our first time going, and we didn’t know exactly what to expect.

The day started at 8:30 AM with a complimentary breakfast supplied by Chef Daniel Boulud’s kitchen. While enjoying the meal, Zachy’s president, Jeff Zacharia, greeted us warmly, and told us, “It moves along quickly, and if they don’t see your paddle just holler out, BID.”

Prior to getting underway, the auctioneer, Fritz Hatton, explained that a19% buyer’s premium and the appropriate state sales tax is added to every winning bid. We found that the catalog is essential in order to follow the action. We printed it out in advance from the website, but it could have been purchased on site for $30. Also helpful, there was a wireless internet connection in the room.

There were about 60 of us sitting around at tables, and about a half dozen staffers from Zachy’s taking phone bids. A total of 1,307 lots were available that day, grouped by consignor and then wine region. At one point midmorning, Fritz announced that six bottles were being opened for tasting. We went over and tried a 2002 Burgundy form Echezaux and a 1966 Chateau Ausone. The ultimate winning bids for these wines were $95 and $119, respectively, which included the 19 % buyer’s premium but not the sales tax.

We went to this event seriously interested in a six-bottle lot of Clos de Tart, a grand cru we buy when we travel to Burgundy. But, there were four bidders and it was gone in an instant. The next thing we knew, it was noon, Fritz was up to lot 412, and we had seen enough for our first auction. It was a fascinating and enjoyable NY wine experience. We will return to the next Zachy’s wine auction in the spring.

Chocolate Shop: Dylan's Candy Bar

1011 Third Avenue (at 60th Street)
646-735-0078
http://www.dylanscandybar.com/

In a league of its own, Dylan’s Candy Bar defies easy categorization, offering old fashioned treats in a thoroughly modern setting. It’s a kaleidoscope of a candy shop, brightly colored, packed with what seems like thousands of choices, wildly popular and always crowded. At first glance, it seems that the shop’s charms are aimed at preteen girls, but after wandering around, you begin to admit that it actually appeals to kids of all ages.

One wall on the main level is devoted to a serve-yourself chocolate section with dozens of varieties of old-fashioned treats covered in chocolate—huge malted balls, marshmallow bars, jelly rings and oddly addictive Rice Krispies, just to name a few. Scoop out want you want, and at $10.99 per pound you don’t need to worry about breaking the bank. They are very good and fresh, and we think the chocolate is the highlight of the shop. You’ll also find 14 varieties of two-ounce Belgian chocolate bars ($2.75 each) and downstairs there’s a terrific variety of classic chocolate candy bars that have been popular for decades. For you “older” kids, seeing them just may bring back a childhood chocolate memory and put a smile on your face.

Remembering Jean-Claude Vrinat

An old food friend of ours passed away this week. His name was Jean-Claude Vrinat, the owner of Taillevent, the famous grand restaurant in Paris. To have dined in his company was to be treated like royalty. He had a presence about him and a special gift that went beyond hospitality. Monsieur Vrinat was a legend.

At every visit, we always felt his warmth. It was like he placed us on his VIP list and considered us his friends. But everyone got this same special treatment from him. Even when it was years between visits, he always remembered us and asked about NY.

Over the years, we ate at Taillevent as often as our schedule and budget allowed. It may have been to celebrate a birthday or an anniversary. We went one Christmas Eve, just the two of us, and another time with a French chef friend who came in from the countryside with shopping bags filled with homemade confiture and bounty from his garden. Then one time we invited a husband and wife, both accomplished physicians, who love to eat fabulous food and know great wines.

A few times (in stronger dollar days) we treated ourselves to lunch at Taillevent right before going to the airport before the long flight home, and everything became more tolerable. It was at Taillevent that we ordered our first bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild. There was also a lunch where we selected an expensive Château-Grillet from the Côtes du Rhône that was corked. Monsieur Vrinat came by, took a sniff, and nodded like the expert that he was. He took extraordinary pride in his wine list. There was no one better.

This past summer after his restaurant was undeservingly demoted from three stars to two by Michelin, our meal was never better. When we told him this, he simply smiled and thanked us. We will miss him a lot the next time we dine at Taillevent.

Restaurant: Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-725-8585
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

Last Thursday, looking for a lunch spot to warm us up on that bitterly cold January day, we headed down to Murray Hill to Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro.

The place was bustling. Appealing decorated in the style of a deco period Paris brasserie, the room was sparkling and well maintained. The menu, of course, was brimming with choices using cheese in a star or supporting role. And there are 160 wines available by the glass (no bargains here), and an large section of the menu is devoted to flights of cheese with optional paired wines. We wondered why though, with all of those wines, there was no sommelier around to help with recommendations.

We naturally opted for two dishes that were heavy on the fromage. The macaroni and cheese ($18.50) was creamy and delicious—made with three cheeses (Emmenthal, Beaufort and Parmesan), bits of prosciutto di Parma and a light but crunchy layer of breadcrumbs on top. The addictive grilled cheese sandwich ($14.50), made with English cheddar was subtly enhanced by a bit of smoked bacon and ultra thin wedges of apple. Both dishes came with excellent mesclun salads (a larger one with the mac & cheese), and a scattering of homemade potato chips also jazzed up the sandwich platter. Our shared dessert, a chocolate tart with carmelized pear and salted caramel ice cream ($10.50) was a winner. Service was perfunctory and somewhat overly efficient.

We’d happily go back to Artisanal and maybe next time we’ll tear ourselves away from the cheese selections and try one of their classic bistro dishes.

Food Shop: NY’s Best Cheeses--The Cheese Counter at Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-212-532-4033
877-797-1200 (Cheese Center Orders)
http://www.artisanalcheese.com/ (web orders)
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/ (bistro)

We think that the Artisanal Premium Cheese brand and operation has, hands down, become NY’s best source for high quality cheese. By building a state-of-the art facility on W. 37th Street, they have been able to properly mature, age and store cheese like no one else in NY. There is a cheese school there too, but no retail shop. Rather, orders are taken over the phone or on their website. But you can shop in person at their one retail establishment, not so much a shop, but a counter nestled in the back of Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro in Murray Hill.

We ate lunch last week at this restaurant (more on that tomorrow), and stopped by the attractive cheese counter to buy a few cheeses to take home. Here we met fromager Sean Faeth, who was happy to make recommendations and describe the cheeses in detail. A terrific, if expensive, bet are the raw Swiss cheeses (some with prices approaching $40/lb.), but you should feel confident putting yourself in Seth’s hands and asking for his recommendations based on your preferences and budget. He told us that you can walk in to buy cheese at any time the restaurant is open, and that he is generally on duty during the day, Mondays through Thursdays.

Wine Shop: Trader Joe’s

138 East 14th Street (bet. Irving Place and 3rd Avenue)
212-529-6326
http://www.traderjoes.com/

If you are the type that looks for a bargain when you shop, then Trader Joe’s is the place for you. Do not come here with a particular label in mind because chances are you will not find it. But if you have time to browse and you know your wine prices, give Trader Joe’s a try. Your shopping cart is likely to fill up quickly with some good deals.

Last month we paid a visit to Trader Joe’s and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne was $36.99. Right around the corner at Union Square Wines the same bottle cost $5 more. In their limited style, Trader Joe’s only had the Moët and VC lines on their shelves, while Union Square had plenty of French champagne choices.

Yesterday, we saw two favorites from France. One was a red Burgundy from Volnay for only $19.99, and a Pierre Sparr Reisling for just under $10. You would be hard pressed to find better prices anywhere in NY. This brings us to Trader Joe’s famous “Two Buck Chuck” line. According to Adam who works the floor, Trader Joe’s has an exclusive on the leftovers from the giant Charles Shaw winery in California. At $2.99 a bottle, Adam steered us to both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon as great buys. Depending on inventory, there are usually other grape varietals available as well.

One warning is to ask first about the delivery charges. It all depends on where you live. For us it was $19.95 a case, so we happily carried six bottles in two neatly packed brown bags home.

Chocolate Shop: January "Whites" Sale at Leonidas (Web Only)

485 Madison Avenue (bet. 51st and 52nd Streets), 212-980-2608
3 Hanover Square (bet. William and Hanover Streets), 212-422-9600
http://www.leonidas-chocolate.com/
Café locations: www.manoncafe.com/newyork.htm

Last Thursday, we stopped in at Leonidas, a favorite chocolate shop on Madison Avenue, and we found out about a web-only sale to help you along with your New Year’s resolutions to spend less money and eat more chocolate. For a limited time, you can get a one-pound mixed box of Manon Blanc and Manon Café chocolates for the astonishing low price of only $20 (regularly $32, with a price increase expected very soon). Details can be found at this link: www.leonidas-chocolate.com/manon-page.html

Leonidas is a real find the New York chocolate lover. You’ll be rewarded here with some of the most attentive service of any chocolate shop in the city, and the excellent, always fresh Belgian chocolates are a terrific buy.

The small, sparkling shop in Midtown has recently been updated with a new look, and it’s better than ever. The store is managed by Jacques Bergier, a tireless French-born chocolate maker’s son, who is absolutely committed to pleasing his customers, many of whom are regulars. The two biggest sellers are both made with a lightly flavored coffee buttercream: the Manon Café with a hazelnut on top and enrobed in milk chocolate, and the Manon Blanc, which is covered in white chocolate. Most of the fillings are made with traditional ingredients such as fruits and nuts, but occasionally more unusual flavors like chili make an appearance at the shop. Also terrific are the orangettes, dark chocolate covered orange peels and a newer addition, the citronettes, dark chocolate covered lemon peels. Both are addictive.

Leonidas packaging is suitably attractive for gift giving, but if you are so inclined you can spend a few extra dollars and get a more elaborate presentation. But you don’t need to go and buy a whole box though, since the staff happily accommodates customers who pop in for a piece or two for a boost at any time of the day.

In recent years, trends and economics have made the addition of three financial district cafés/shops a sound business venture for Bergier, who says, “In New York now, you can’t live on chocolate alone.” So for those lucky to be downtown, you can have a complimentary piece of Leonidas with your Illy coffee! The cafés also sell a good selection of individual chocolates and gift boxes, with the Hanover Square location offering the most extensive selection.