And have a Happy New Year!
We will see you back here in 2008.
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
Food Shop: Piemonte Ravioli
190 Grand Street
212-226-0475
http://www.piemonteravioli.com
During the holiday season we always make a big tray of lasagna. It is a great meal for a crowd, and you can prepare it the day before your party. The flavors always seem to be better after resting in the refrigerator overnight. It is then slowly reheated in the oven for about an hour before the guests arrive.
Our choice is to make a béchamel sauce and layer it between the pasta noodles rather than using mozzarella and ricotta cheese. We learned this from John Clancy’s Favorite Recipes - A Personal Cookbook, where this recipe originated. The red meat sauce is prepared with two large cans of San Marzano tomatoes, and a combined mixture of about two pounds of beef, pork and veal.
The most important component to us is using fresh lasagna noodles. We always buy the green spinach variety at Piemonte in Little Italy. They cost $3.25 for a 1 lb. package. The wide green pasta is very festive looking against the red meat sauce. Santa would be delighted if this year you left him a wedge of spinach lasagna on Christmas Eve.
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Restaurant: The Four Seasons
99 East 52nd Street
212-754-9494
http://www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com
www.opentable.com
When it is time for a special occasion dinner you cannot go wrong with The Four Seasons restaurant. This is where high powered New Yorkers and industry heads have eaten since 1959. Even the wine list has photographs of socialite Brooke Astor, architect Philip Johnson and President Kennedy mixed in with the Bordeaux offerings. At our dinner last night, to nobody’s surprise seated at the next table was one of the newly crowned kings in financial services.
Our reservation was booked on open table.com, and a nice feature is you can specify what you’re celebrating or special requests for the maitre d’. We asked for the pool room as we did more than ten years ago when we last ate here. Nothing has changed. A wedding reception was going on over in the grill room.
We were graciously escorted to a large corner table looking out to this grand room. A generous bread basket started us off. After the toast with a large glass of champagne ($24) and a delicious rendition of a sidecar ($16), our first courses arrived. Two langoustines ($32) atop a sea urchin risotto, and the other was a couple of in-season Florida Stone Crabs ($38) coleslaw and a horseradish sauce. We both got the Chateaubriand ($110 for two) with a béarnaise sauce and string beans. The classic table side service is a nice show, but can be risky because our beef was kept on the flame a minute too long. We ordered an extra side dish called a salsify gratinee ($9.50) that was delicious.
The birthday surprise was a mound of white cotton candy that looked like a wig worn by Marie Antoinette with a single lit candle on top. Underneath was a scoop of strawberry ice cream. They packed up the cotton candy in a glossy Four Seasons shopping bag that we will proudly reuse on another day.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Food Shop: Di Palo Fine Foods
200 Grand Street (at Mott Street)
212-226-1033
No website
How would you describe the top food shop in NY and what makes it so great? We think the place is Di Palo’s, which was originally a latteria that made mozzarella and ricotta cheese. Today they carry all sorts of Italian food products. When you visit Di Palo’s you will find it to be a unique NY shopping experience. Over the years here are just some things we have personally observed during our Di Palo excursions:
212-226-1033
No website
How would you describe the top food shop in NY and what makes it so great? We think the place is Di Palo’s, which was originally a latteria that made mozzarella and ricotta cheese. Today they carry all sorts of Italian food products. When you visit Di Palo’s you will find it to be a unique NY shopping experience. Over the years here are just some things we have personally observed during our Di Palo excursions:
The store is always crowded and you need to take a number and wait your turn.
Sometimes newcomers don’t know this and despite the crowd they know when you are next.
They specialize in cheese from Italy and import the best products they can find.
It is a family run business passed on from one generation to the next.
People come from near and far to shop there—even the NYC guidebooks list it.
Nobody gets special treatment, not even famous NY chefs.
The typical customer will purchase an enormous amount of products.
Samples are always given out and usually shared with anyone in the general vicinity.
Even though you wait a long time it is okay, in fact you are apt to make new friends.
The owners, Lou, Sal and Marie and their Mother (who’s in on Saturdays) are extremely likeable people.
We are never without a chunk of Di Palo’s Parmigiano Reggiano in our refrigerator.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Wine Shop: Union Square Wines
140 Fourth Avenue at 13th street
212-675-8100
http://www.unionsquarewines.com/
Printed on the window shade of the Union Square Wines & Spirits store is the USQ logo in big red letters. This is appropriate because we find a good portion of their red wine inventory to big, powerful and robust. And there always seems to be a large number of boxes stacked up by the exit door ready to be delivered. We look at USQ as one of the new breed of stores marketing wine and spirits in NYC.
The store is easy to navigate. Once you go inside just to the right is a huge Viking double refrigerator filled with sake. On their website, sake has a link with a drop down list. This is a product that is not so prominent in most wine shops around town.
USQ also has a large temperature controlled room for their high end wines. On the countertop in the center of the room is something called an enomatic wine serving system.(http://www.enomatic.it/). USQ has three of them located throughout the store with a selection of wine bottles attached for tastings.
The way it works is after they mail you an enomatic card, for every dollar you spend at USQ, you get five points credited to your account. Then, when you want to sample one of these bottles, you give them your enomatic card and they deduct the points from your account. The better the bottle, the more points they will deduct. It is a novel idea and we don’t know any other shops in NY that offer this type of tasting.
Once you are registered as a USQ customer, you can expect to receive occasional postcards in the mail alerting you to sales, and weekly e-mails about an upcoming tasting or special event. The store runs many of them, and the space works well for these programs. We always review the e-mails because you never know when a blockbuster 30% case discount is going into effect. It’s at those times that we most like to make a pilgrimage to USQ.
212-675-8100
http://www.unionsquarewines.com/
Printed on the window shade of the Union Square Wines & Spirits store is the USQ logo in big red letters. This is appropriate because we find a good portion of their red wine inventory to big, powerful and robust. And there always seems to be a large number of boxes stacked up by the exit door ready to be delivered. We look at USQ as one of the new breed of stores marketing wine and spirits in NYC.
The store is easy to navigate. Once you go inside just to the right is a huge Viking double refrigerator filled with sake. On their website, sake has a link with a drop down list. This is a product that is not so prominent in most wine shops around town.
USQ also has a large temperature controlled room for their high end wines. On the countertop in the center of the room is something called an enomatic wine serving system.(http://www.enomatic.it/). USQ has three of them located throughout the store with a selection of wine bottles attached for tastings.
The way it works is after they mail you an enomatic card, for every dollar you spend at USQ, you get five points credited to your account. Then, when you want to sample one of these bottles, you give them your enomatic card and they deduct the points from your account. The better the bottle, the more points they will deduct. It is a novel idea and we don’t know any other shops in NY that offer this type of tasting.
Once you are registered as a USQ customer, you can expect to receive occasional postcards in the mail alerting you to sales, and weekly e-mails about an upcoming tasting or special event. The store runs many of them, and the space works well for these programs. We always review the e-mails because you never know when a blockbuster 30% case discount is going into effect. It’s at those times that we most like to make a pilgrimage to USQ.
Monday, December 17, 2007
Hot Chocolate Stop at Shake Shack
Southeast Corner at Madison Square Park
(Enter at Madison Avenue and E. 23rd Street)
212-889-6600
http://www.shakeshack.com/
On Friday, we ate lunch at the Shake Shack. Hearing this food stand in Madison Square Park was going to stay open for the winter (with a closing around Christmas week), we decided to see how outdoor eating would hold up on a sunny but chilly December day. The usually long lunchtime line was mercifully short and we thoroughly enjoyed our cheeseburger, Wisconsin Bratwurst and fries. But we ate fast because in spite of the strong sun, it really was too chilly for outdoor dining.
(Enter at Madison Avenue and E. 23rd Street)
212-889-6600
http://www.shakeshack.com/
On Friday, we ate lunch at the Shake Shack. Hearing this food stand in Madison Square Park was going to stay open for the winter (with a closing around Christmas week), we decided to see how outdoor eating would hold up on a sunny but chilly December day. The usually long lunchtime line was mercifully short and we thoroughly enjoyed our cheeseburger, Wisconsin Bratwurst and fries. But we ate fast because in spite of the strong sun, it really was too chilly for outdoor dining.
We are always in search of some good chocolate treats around town, so we were happy to find a terrific hot chocolate now on the menu at the Shake Shack. Thick and rich with an intense chocolate flavor, the cup ($3.75) here comes with a giant marshmallow floating on top and a piece of toffee candy on the bottom. If you’re in the neighborhood on a chilly day and you’re craving some good chocolate, you can’t go wrong with a quick hot chocolate break at Shake Shack.
Friday, December 14, 2007
Holiday: Custom Gift Baskets at Dean & DeLuca
We stopped by the Dean & DeLuca shop in Soho this afternoon and saw that the back of the store has been transformed to a festive create-your-own gift basket emporium. We think it’s a great idea for a unique “Made In NY” food gift.
There are a wide variety of containers to choose from, including baskets, decorated boxes, and totes. And a helpful salesperson told us that we could select items from the store and usually within two hours or so, your basket will be attractively assembled and is ready to go. Prices start at $100. Courier service is available for local deliveries and UPS for more distant locations.
A similar service is available on their website. You can select a container, and while not as exhaustive as the in-store choices, there are many worthwhile options for filling it up.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Restaurant: Les Halles
411 Park Avenue South (bet. 28th and 29th Streets)
212-679-4111
http://www.leshalles.net/
http://www.opentable.com/
The name of the place is actually Brasserie Les Halles, and we sometimes go there when we have a yearning for Paris and tickets on Air France have not yet been booked. The large mirrors and the French posters inside can transport your mind to the other side of the Atlantic, and quite frankly the food here is better than a lot of the bistros in Paris.
Over the years, Les Halles has become one of our favorite NY steakhouses. The dish we almost always order is a cut of beef called hanger steak, which in French is called onglet. It is a long, thin piece of beef that can be a little bit chewy but has a real beefy flavor. Here it is quickly pan fried over a high heat to sear in the bloody juices. Served with a shallot sauce made with a rich beef stock and red wine, it comes with a pile of piping hot French fries and some mixed greens that wilt on the hot oval platter. This is a great value meal for $21, and especially hits the spot when it’s cold outside.
A unique and terrific thing about Les Halles is that you can buy the very same hanger steak from the butcher shop located at the front of the restaurant. It costs $10.50 a pound, and don’t forget to order some of the unadvertised shallot sauce for an extra $5 (roughly eight ounces). The last time we bought this rich thick brown sauce it was still warm from simmering on the stovetop. Be forewarned: the butcher shop hours are constantly changing and service can be slow.
If you look at their website you will see they now have other locations around the U.S., and you can read about the chef turned author and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. His first book, Kitchen Confidential is a fun read for anyone who wants to know what really goes on inside the professional food world.
212-679-4111
http://www.leshalles.net/
http://www.opentable.com/
The name of the place is actually Brasserie Les Halles, and we sometimes go there when we have a yearning for Paris and tickets on Air France have not yet been booked. The large mirrors and the French posters inside can transport your mind to the other side of the Atlantic, and quite frankly the food here is better than a lot of the bistros in Paris.
Over the years, Les Halles has become one of our favorite NY steakhouses. The dish we almost always order is a cut of beef called hanger steak, which in French is called onglet. It is a long, thin piece of beef that can be a little bit chewy but has a real beefy flavor. Here it is quickly pan fried over a high heat to sear in the bloody juices. Served with a shallot sauce made with a rich beef stock and red wine, it comes with a pile of piping hot French fries and some mixed greens that wilt on the hot oval platter. This is a great value meal for $21, and especially hits the spot when it’s cold outside.
A unique and terrific thing about Les Halles is that you can buy the very same hanger steak from the butcher shop located at the front of the restaurant. It costs $10.50 a pound, and don’t forget to order some of the unadvertised shallot sauce for an extra $5 (roughly eight ounces). The last time we bought this rich thick brown sauce it was still warm from simmering on the stovetop. Be forewarned: the butcher shop hours are constantly changing and service can be slow.
If you look at their website you will see they now have other locations around the U.S., and you can read about the chef turned author and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. His first book, Kitchen Confidential is a fun read for anyone who wants to know what really goes on inside the professional food world.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Food Shop: Bûche de Noël at Payard
Every Christmas season, we treat ourselves to a traditional French “yule log” dessert. We’ve made them in our kitchen, bought them in Paris at patisserie Gérard Mulot, and in NY, our supplier of choice has been Payard on the Upper East Side.
We’ve dubbed François Payard, “the king of the Bûche de Noël." He sells so many, that on the day before Christmas, you don’t go inside the shop, but rather pick up your pre-ordered log outside from the back of a truck. Our favorite version is the Bagatelle, a wonderful chestnut creation (we’ve described all the choices in detail below.) To be certain of getting exactly what you want, you should pre-order, although we’ve had luck in past years by just stopping in the shop and buying one of the many extras on hand for those who didn’t plan ahead.
We stopped in at Payard yesterday to find out about this year’s prospects, and here’s what we’ve found out.
Ordering must be done by phone (212-717-5252, ext. 111) or in person, and is not available on the website. Items are available starting December 18th. All Christmas orders must be placed by 4 pm on December 22nd. Christmas pick up will be on Saturday, December 22nd (9 am to 11 pm), Sunday, December 23rd (9 am to 6 pm), and Monday, December 24th (9 am to 5 pm).
There are four sizes available, serving 4, 6, 8, and 10, priced at $26, $39, $52, and $65, respectively and the four choices are:
Louvre: chocolate mousse, hazelnut mousse and hazelnut dacquoise
Vienne: flaky sablé with dark chocolate mousse, orange marmalade and a soft caramel center
Sicilien: sablé Breton filled with cream cheese mousse, cranberry geleé and a dusting of ground Sicilien pistachios and cream cheese crumble
Bagatelle: chestnut sponge filled with chestnut mousse, candied chestnut and Mandarin geleé.
Joyeux Noël!
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Wine School: Windows on the World Wine School
http://www.windowswineschool.com/
845-255-1456
The wine course we personally recommend to anyone is the Windows on the World Wine School given by the enthusiastic wine expert Kevin Zraly. We went back in 2000, and to this day it remains a memorable experience.
The price of the course is now $995, and takes place at the Marriott Marquis Hotel (45th St. and Broadway). And just as we experienced, it is made up of eight two-hour classes. The first three are on white wine (French-American-German) then four classes on reds (Burgundy-Bordeaux-California-Spain/Italy) and on graduation class night the subject is Champagne & Port. Kevin’s unique instruction will alter your sensibilities about the noble grape. A lot like a favorite professor may have done when you were back in school.
To this day we still chant his mantra on how to identify wine: color, country, region, and grape. No matter where you are on the wine knowledge scale, this course is worth your attention. The wines for every class are poured before you arrive and on a typical class you have a lot of fun trying to identify a jug wine from the first growth. His knowledge about all sorts of wine varieties is amazing, and best of all Kevin Zraly is laugh-out-loud funny about the subject.
Since we are both graduates, we are still on the mailing list and have gone back years later to re-take the Burgundy and Bordeaux classes (at $100 per evening). They were that good. Kevin’s bestselling book, Windows on the World Complete Wine Course ($24.95) is very easy to read and it follows the course instruction. He recently published a new book titled, Kevin Zraly’s American Wine Guide 2008 ($12.95). Guaranteed this is one book that will be on our wish list to Santa.
845-255-1456
The wine course we personally recommend to anyone is the Windows on the World Wine School given by the enthusiastic wine expert Kevin Zraly. We went back in 2000, and to this day it remains a memorable experience.
The price of the course is now $995, and takes place at the Marriott Marquis Hotel (45th St. and Broadway). And just as we experienced, it is made up of eight two-hour classes. The first three are on white wine (French-American-German) then four classes on reds (Burgundy-Bordeaux-California-Spain/Italy) and on graduation class night the subject is Champagne & Port. Kevin’s unique instruction will alter your sensibilities about the noble grape. A lot like a favorite professor may have done when you were back in school.
To this day we still chant his mantra on how to identify wine: color, country, region, and grape. No matter where you are on the wine knowledge scale, this course is worth your attention. The wines for every class are poured before you arrive and on a typical class you have a lot of fun trying to identify a jug wine from the first growth. His knowledge about all sorts of wine varieties is amazing, and best of all Kevin Zraly is laugh-out-loud funny about the subject.
Since we are both graduates, we are still on the mailing list and have gone back years later to re-take the Burgundy and Bordeaux classes (at $100 per evening). They were that good. Kevin’s bestselling book, Windows on the World Complete Wine Course ($24.95) is very easy to read and it follows the course instruction. He recently published a new book titled, Kevin Zraly’s American Wine Guide 2008 ($12.95). Guaranteed this is one book that will be on our wish list to Santa.
Monday, December 10, 2007
Chocolate Shop: Trappistine Quality Candy
1-866-549-8929
http://www.trappistinecandy.com/
Even though we have so many wonderful chocolate shops in NY, we’ve found a handful of places in other parts of the country where terrific chocolates are made. One such place is Trappistine Quality Candy in Wrentham, Massachusetts. We’ve regularly ordered from the Sisters from Mount Saint Mary’s Abbey for many years and can attest to their delicious “homemade” quality and fantastic value.
The milk chocolate butter nut munch is a dangerous box (10 oz. box, $11.75), to keep around the house. Addictive squares of almond butter crunch covered with milk chocolate and roasted hazelnuts disappear faster than a blink of an eye. Other recommended gifts are dark chocolate almond bark, fudge and for the holidays, milk and dark chocolate Santa pops for the child in all of us. And they also sell combination gift boxes if you can’t make up your mind.
We thought we’d mention Trappistine Candy, since Dec. 10 is the last day for web orders guaranteed for Christmas delivery although their order form states, “orders received after the holiday cut off date will be shipped in the order in which we receive them.” So, don’t hesitate!
http://www.trappistinecandy.com/
Even though we have so many wonderful chocolate shops in NY, we’ve found a handful of places in other parts of the country where terrific chocolates are made. One such place is Trappistine Quality Candy in Wrentham, Massachusetts. We’ve regularly ordered from the Sisters from Mount Saint Mary’s Abbey for many years and can attest to their delicious “homemade” quality and fantastic value.
The milk chocolate butter nut munch is a dangerous box (10 oz. box, $11.75), to keep around the house. Addictive squares of almond butter crunch covered with milk chocolate and roasted hazelnuts disappear faster than a blink of an eye. Other recommended gifts are dark chocolate almond bark, fudge and for the holidays, milk and dark chocolate Santa pops for the child in all of us. And they also sell combination gift boxes if you can’t make up your mind.
We thought we’d mention Trappistine Candy, since Dec. 10 is the last day for web orders guaranteed for Christmas delivery although their order form states, “orders received after the holiday cut off date will be shipped in the order in which we receive them.” So, don’t hesitate!
Friday, December 7, 2007
Holiday: Web Order Seafood Gifts
We love to go shopping around NY looking for yummy treats for Christmas gifts. But sometimes, especially for friends and family out-of-town, the web is the place to shop. Here are two of our favorites, both offering mouth-watering seafood with personal service--important because the coordination of such perishable gifts at times is best served with human interaction.
At least once or twice a year for the past five years or so, we’ve ordered the fresh, ready-to-cook Maryland-style crab cakes (but they come from Delaware) from Crab Cake Express, http://www.crabcakeexpress.com/. We’ve tried others, but keep coming back to these with the terrific jumbo lump meat. We’ve given them as gifts and have also served them for Christmas Eve dinner. They are always a hit and Scott is always helpful with the order.
The lobster meat from Hancock Gourmet Lobster in Maine is second to none, http://www.hancockgourmetlobster.com/. We love the “Downeast Lobster Rolls,” and have been both the recipient and sender of this gift. And by all accounts, they have been a great treat. One lovely couple we know reported that not only were they delicious, but they brought back wonderful memories of long ago times at the Maine coast. We’ve tried making our own lobster rolls and having them at well-known seafood places in NYC, but the ones from Hancock take first place for us.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Restaurant: The Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant
Lower Level at Grand Central Station
212-490-6650
http://www.oysterbarny.com/
Lunch at the Oyster Bar, a NY classic since 1913, is arguably one of the most authentic eating experiences in the Big Apple. For the best time, be sure and visit on a regular business day during the noon to 2 pm lunch period.
The typical New Yorker who comes here will never bother with a reservation, but just walks in and sits at one of the horseshoe-shaped counters or at the higher barstools along the wall facing the busy oyster shuckers. It’s here you can watch the oyster stew cook doing his thing, but it gets repetitive after a couple of bowls. We prefer to sit at the middle horseshoe counter so we take in all the action in and around the open kitchen—a show of organized mayhem where they have a “kitchen MC” who uses a microphone to bark out the orders for the team of cooks. With the small army of waiters and waitresses coming and going it looks like Grand Central Terminal at rush hour.
At this time of day the acoustics of the place with its renowned vaulted ceilings can be deafening, but that just adds to the ambience. We always start our meal with a bowl of clam chowder. The tomato-based Manhattan or the creamy white New England are both excellent. Then it is a question of how hungry you happen to be. A main fish course, or perhaps something from the sandwich menu, or sometimes we just have raw oysters like the local Bluepoint variety. The classic oyster stew or the zesty pan roast, are fine one-dish meals. Another favorite is the fried oyster sandwich called the Po’ Boy. The ladies who work these counters know how to get the lone diners in and out in a matter of minutes, but if you are with someone and want to leisurely finish your white wine, that is okay too.
When paying the tab, be sure and take note of the cashier who stands in a tiny booth right near the door. He’s been a fixture of the place for as long as we remember, and is a quintessential New York character who helps to make the Oyster Bar such a classic.
212-490-6650
http://www.oysterbarny.com/
Lunch at the Oyster Bar, a NY classic since 1913, is arguably one of the most authentic eating experiences in the Big Apple. For the best time, be sure and visit on a regular business day during the noon to 2 pm lunch period.
The typical New Yorker who comes here will never bother with a reservation, but just walks in and sits at one of the horseshoe-shaped counters or at the higher barstools along the wall facing the busy oyster shuckers. It’s here you can watch the oyster stew cook doing his thing, but it gets repetitive after a couple of bowls. We prefer to sit at the middle horseshoe counter so we take in all the action in and around the open kitchen—a show of organized mayhem where they have a “kitchen MC” who uses a microphone to bark out the orders for the team of cooks. With the small army of waiters and waitresses coming and going it looks like Grand Central Terminal at rush hour.
At this time of day the acoustics of the place with its renowned vaulted ceilings can be deafening, but that just adds to the ambience. We always start our meal with a bowl of clam chowder. The tomato-based Manhattan or the creamy white New England are both excellent. Then it is a question of how hungry you happen to be. A main fish course, or perhaps something from the sandwich menu, or sometimes we just have raw oysters like the local Bluepoint variety. The classic oyster stew or the zesty pan roast, are fine one-dish meals. Another favorite is the fried oyster sandwich called the Po’ Boy. The ladies who work these counters know how to get the lone diners in and out in a matter of minutes, but if you are with someone and want to leisurely finish your white wine, that is okay too.
When paying the tab, be sure and take note of the cashier who stands in a tiny booth right near the door. He’s been a fixture of the place for as long as we remember, and is a quintessential New York character who helps to make the Oyster Bar such a classic.
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Food Shop: Schaller & Weber
1654 Second Avenue (between 85th and 86th Streets)
212-879-3047
http://www.schallerweber.com/
Schaller & Weber is the kind of ethnic food shop that makes NY a great eating town. This big sparkling clean store to us defines old Yorkville—the neighborhood that once was known for its large population of German immigrants.
At the long counter there is a lot to choose from starting with ham, wieners, sausages and smoked meats. The Canadian bacon and the cucumber salad are always on our list when it is our turn to order. All the countermen have a long standing tradition of offering a slice of bologna to children that wait on line with their parents. We patronize S&W more in the fall when the weather is cool and it is time to make a steaming platter of choucroute. On their website you can find a recipe, but to us, it is a personal preference of what type of smoked meats you like piled on top of braised sauerkraut.
Another favorite, when it is cold outside and you are in no mood to cook, is the homemade sauerbraten with gravy and their fresh made spätzle. We were told restaurants order these delicious noodles to serve as their own.
A good snack before the choucroute or any tasty meal from S&W is a bag of their homemade soft pretzels. They are so fresh; it is almost guaranteed they will be eaten up quickly. They are far better than the pretzels sold by NY street vendors.
212-879-3047
http://www.schallerweber.com/
Schaller & Weber is the kind of ethnic food shop that makes NY a great eating town. This big sparkling clean store to us defines old Yorkville—the neighborhood that once was known for its large population of German immigrants.
At the long counter there is a lot to choose from starting with ham, wieners, sausages and smoked meats. The Canadian bacon and the cucumber salad are always on our list when it is our turn to order. All the countermen have a long standing tradition of offering a slice of bologna to children that wait on line with their parents. We patronize S&W more in the fall when the weather is cool and it is time to make a steaming platter of choucroute. On their website you can find a recipe, but to us, it is a personal preference of what type of smoked meats you like piled on top of braised sauerkraut.
Another favorite, when it is cold outside and you are in no mood to cook, is the homemade sauerbraten with gravy and their fresh made spätzle. We were told restaurants order these delicious noodles to serve as their own.
A good snack before the choucroute or any tasty meal from S&W is a bag of their homemade soft pretzels. They are so fresh; it is almost guaranteed they will be eaten up quickly. They are far better than the pretzels sold by NY street vendors.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Wine Shop: Mister Wright – Fine Wines & Spirits
1593 Third Avenue (bet. 89th and 90th Streets)
212-722-4564
Website under construction
Hours: Monday through Saturday 9AM – 9:30PM; Sunday 1PM – 6:45PM
In the big discount store category there is not a friendlier wine shop in NY than Mister Wright. It is rather refreshing compared to the places where the clerks have a know-it-all attitude, and don’t even pretend to listen to anything you have to say. So when walking around the store, do not be surprised by the number of times you are approached and asked if you need any help. Sometimes we will have a small question ready so not to disappoint the eager staff. This will also clue you in on the knowledge base of the clerk. If Jody is on the floor you will be in very good hands. She knows her wine and always has a recommendation on a good value bottle. Recently it was Argentinean Malbacs.
We use Mister Wright to buy a lot of our everyday drinking wine. They do not have a website. Nor do they mail out any promotional material. But with a big selection of labels not found in other stores this size, and a 10% case discount on still wine, you can do well here.
When the Wall Street Journal recently published a story on Spanish reds from the Ribera del Duero, we showed the piece to Jody and she quickly pointed us to two of the bottles that were reviewed. At other shops, usually you can never even find one listed in this type of article. The same thing occurred after we ate at A Voce and had a delicious Tuscan red, Le Volte, which was recommended by the sommelier. We found the 2005 was at Mister Wright for $27.99.
Mister Wright has a free case delivery policy in Manhattan. The delivery guys always in their Mister Wright orange sweatshirts have the same wanting-to-please attitude. So don’t be surprised if the case you bought beats you home.
212-722-4564
Website under construction
Hours: Monday through Saturday 9AM – 9:30PM; Sunday 1PM – 6:45PM
In the big discount store category there is not a friendlier wine shop in NY than Mister Wright. It is rather refreshing compared to the places where the clerks have a know-it-all attitude, and don’t even pretend to listen to anything you have to say. So when walking around the store, do not be surprised by the number of times you are approached and asked if you need any help. Sometimes we will have a small question ready so not to disappoint the eager staff. This will also clue you in on the knowledge base of the clerk. If Jody is on the floor you will be in very good hands. She knows her wine and always has a recommendation on a good value bottle. Recently it was Argentinean Malbacs.
We use Mister Wright to buy a lot of our everyday drinking wine. They do not have a website. Nor do they mail out any promotional material. But with a big selection of labels not found in other stores this size, and a 10% case discount on still wine, you can do well here.
When the Wall Street Journal recently published a story on Spanish reds from the Ribera del Duero, we showed the piece to Jody and she quickly pointed us to two of the bottles that were reviewed. At other shops, usually you can never even find one listed in this type of article. The same thing occurred after we ate at A Voce and had a delicious Tuscan red, Le Volte, which was recommended by the sommelier. We found the 2005 was at Mister Wright for $27.99.
Mister Wright has a free case delivery policy in Manhattan. The delivery guys always in their Mister Wright orange sweatshirts have the same wanting-to-please attitude. So don’t be surprised if the case you bought beats you home.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Chocolate Shop: Jacques Torres comes to the Upper West Side
285 Amsterdam Avenue (bet. 73rd and 74th Streets)
No telephone yet
http://www.jacquestorres.com/
On Saturday morning, when we pulled into a parking spot on Amsterdam Avenue, between 73rd and 74th Streets, to what did our wondering eyes appear, but a new Jacques Torres chocolate shop! Open only about three weeks, the façade still was under construction, but inside all was sparkling. The chandeliers were hung and the shelves around the store were stacked with irresistible goodies.
No telephone yet
http://www.jacquestorres.com/
On Saturday morning, when we pulled into a parking spot on Amsterdam Avenue, between 73rd and 74th Streets, to what did our wondering eyes appear, but a new Jacques Torres chocolate shop! Open only about three weeks, the façade still was under construction, but inside all was sparkling. The chandeliers were hung and the shelves around the store were stacked with irresistible goodies.
On one side of the shop, there is a long, wavy wooden bar with Jacques Torres’ mouthwatering chocolate creations on display, and right now that includes attractive chocolate Santas and a nice selection of bon-bons, some decorated for the December holidays ($55 for a box of 50). On the other side, there is a coffee/hot chocolate bar. We tried the classic hot chocolate ($3.25), which really hit the spot on what seemed like the first cold morning of the season. Service was very helpful. Walking around the shop we felt like a wonderful Parisian chocolate shop had been brightened, updated and then transported to the Upper West Side. What a terrific and much-needed addition to this neighborhood.
Friday, November 30, 2007
Eight Ideas for Hanukkah
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For the table, the Jewish Museum New York gift shop at Fifth Avenue and 92nd Street sells a colorful and festive round “Happy Hanukkah” platter designed by Jessica Sporn for $30. And the neighboring design store has a small hand-hammered stainless steel bowl with an oxidized bronzed olive branch designed by artist Michael Aram for $70. http://www.jewishmuseum.org/
Burdick Chocolates, one of our all-time favorite chocolatiers, is selling their delicious chocolates presented in their signature wooden boxes and festively wrapped for Hanukkah. Priced from $18-$61 and only available by shipping. http://www.burdickchocolate.com/
We think the beautiful hand delivered fruit baskets from Manhattan Fruitier will add a sophisticated and festive touch to the holiday table, and the contents can be devoured after the party. Prices start at $55. http://www.manhattanfruitier.com/
For many years, Li-Lac Chocolates, with locations now in Greenwich Village and Grand Central has sold yummy milk chocolate gelt. This year it’s $17.50/lb., and they also are selling a chocolate driedel that is filled with the same chocolate gelt for $7.95. http://www.li-lacchocolates.com/
Any cut of prime beef that we get from L. Simchick is always delicious, and is worth an excursion to the Sutton Place neighborhood. If you’re cooking your own, the trimmed brisket there is $8.99/lb. 988 First Avenue (bet. 54th-55th Streets), 212-888-2299.
If jelly donuts are your tradition, we can recommend the Doughnut Plant on the Lower East Side. Check their website (under “Contact” ) for other shops around town where they’re sold as well. http://www.doughnutplant.com/
Lobel’s, the famously expensive Upper East Side Butcher sells fresh potato latkes for $2.50 each. They have to be the least expensive item in the store. http://www.lobels.com/
Eli Zabar’s website has two sizes of Hanukkah gift baskets, priced at $100 and $150. They are also made to order at E.A.T. at 1064 Madison Avenue. You can call in the morning and have one ready later in the day. http://www.elizabar.com/store-baskets14.html
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Food Finds: Bargain EV Olive Oil
Available at Gourmet Garagehttp://www.gourmetgarage.com/
Last week, near the entrance in the Gourmet Garage on E. 96th Street, there was a diminutive woman dressed in chef whites. She was standing behind a small table with a basket filled with bread chunks. Next to the bread were one-litre bottles of extra virgin olive oil. The name of the oil was Olave. It was a very pale green and came from Chile. It had a sweet, fresh taste and the best part was the unbelievable promotional price of $9.99 a bottle. We just tried it this week on a salad and it was terrific—comparable in quality to good EV oils that we’ve had from Italy. The price goes up to $16.99 on December 1, which is still a bargain considering the skyrocketing prices of European olive oils.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Wine Shop: Sherry-Lehmann
505 Park Avenue (at 59th Street)
212-838-7500
http://www.sherry-lehmann.com/
If you have not made a visit to Sherry-Lehmann at its new location on the corner of Park Avenue and E. 59th street, now is the time. Every NY wine lover knows their familiar shopping bag with the row of French Can-Can girls. To us, the old place on Madison Avenue had a dark dungeon-like feel to it, making it difficult to read labels and price tags. The new store has a much brighter up-to-date look, yet has a lived-in quality with a classic wood panel interior.
As always, the store is a museum of wine treasures. Nobody can dispute that this is a top place in NY to buy high-quality wine. If you are looking for a special gift bottle, this is a place to come. But also we’ve been very satisfied with some of their exclusive case offerings of moderately priced wines, which are generally announced to people on their mailing list and by looking at their website. For years, we’ve ordered from these selections and truly find them to be a terrific value.
In order to make shopping at Sherry-Lehmann a more pleasant experience, our advice is to do your homework on their website before you go. Jot down vintages, prices and the bin numbers, or else you could be in for an interesting transaction. This is simply because you never know what kind of service you will encounter. Over the years we have experienced both ends of the spectrum. We stopped by twice in the past week, and found seasonal salespersons all over the floor, mostly helpful without any pretense about wine. But be warned as it gets closer to Christmas and New Year’s, the store will no doubt be jam-packed during peak hours.
During one of our recent visits, Sherry-Lehmann Chairman Michael Aaron was giving a personal tour to a VIP-type friend and the temptation was too great not to listen in on the conversation. So now you know that one of the owner’s favorite sections is the display of oversized wine bottles right in the back row. We had to agree. Perhaps this year you can be Santa to someone with an Imperial (eight-bottle size) Chateau Beychevelle ($495) under their Christmas tree.
212-838-7500
http://www.sherry-lehmann.com/
If you have not made a visit to Sherry-Lehmann at its new location on the corner of Park Avenue and E. 59th street, now is the time. Every NY wine lover knows their familiar shopping bag with the row of French Can-Can girls. To us, the old place on Madison Avenue had a dark dungeon-like feel to it, making it difficult to read labels and price tags. The new store has a much brighter up-to-date look, yet has a lived-in quality with a classic wood panel interior.
As always, the store is a museum of wine treasures. Nobody can dispute that this is a top place in NY to buy high-quality wine. If you are looking for a special gift bottle, this is a place to come. But also we’ve been very satisfied with some of their exclusive case offerings of moderately priced wines, which are generally announced to people on their mailing list and by looking at their website. For years, we’ve ordered from these selections and truly find them to be a terrific value.
In order to make shopping at Sherry-Lehmann a more pleasant experience, our advice is to do your homework on their website before you go. Jot down vintages, prices and the bin numbers, or else you could be in for an interesting transaction. This is simply because you never know what kind of service you will encounter. Over the years we have experienced both ends of the spectrum. We stopped by twice in the past week, and found seasonal salespersons all over the floor, mostly helpful without any pretense about wine. But be warned as it gets closer to Christmas and New Year’s, the store will no doubt be jam-packed during peak hours.
During one of our recent visits, Sherry-Lehmann Chairman Michael Aaron was giving a personal tour to a VIP-type friend and the temptation was too great not to listen in on the conversation. So now you know that one of the owner’s favorite sections is the display of oversized wine bottles right in the back row. We had to agree. Perhaps this year you can be Santa to someone with an Imperial (eight-bottle size) Chateau Beychevelle ($495) under their Christmas tree.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Restaurant: A Voce
41 Madison Avenue (at 26th Street)
212-545-8555
www.opentable.com
www.avocerestaurant.com
Worldwide Italian wine consumption is exploding thanks in large part to the popularity of Italian food and restaurants. We learned this interesting fact at an Italian wine lecture that was held at the NYU Stern Alumni conference this past June at La Pietra in Florence, Italy. So when we returned home to NY—which is to us the food capital of the world—we wanted to go back and eat at our current favorite NY Italian restaurant.
A Voce is that place. In Italian it means, “word of mouth.” This is modern Italian cooking with a NY twist. Even though the cuisine is very sophisticated here, one of our favorite dishes is called, “My Grandmother’s Meat Ravioli.” So if you are a pasta lover, this is also your kind of place too.
We remember when Chef Andrew Carmellini was cooking uptown at Café Boulud. For years, this was always our #1 choice in Chef Daniel Boulud's empire of establishments. So when Chef Carmellini went out on his own, we were sure to follow to see what he was up to. Since then, we’ve had several meals at A Voce and always had a great time.
The boss of the dining room is maître d' is Dante Camara, who always wears a big smile you when you walk in. At our last meal he gave us a table by the window because we told him when we made the reservation it was our anniversary. We ordered a perfectly cooked sliced duck breast with roasted figs, and the most delicious marinated chicken breast topped with outrageous looking tomato foam.
After you place your order be sure and have a discussion with the wine director, Oliver Flosse, a native of Marseille, France. When we told him what we were having, he picked out the most delicious Italian red, the 2004 Le Volte, from Tuscany.
The meal ended with a citrus tiramisu made with a Meyer lemon crema that was smooth as silk and a chocolate caramel tartino. There is also a nice selection of Italian cheeses to end the meal.
212-545-8555
www.opentable.com
www.avocerestaurant.com
Worldwide Italian wine consumption is exploding thanks in large part to the popularity of Italian food and restaurants. We learned this interesting fact at an Italian wine lecture that was held at the NYU Stern Alumni conference this past June at La Pietra in Florence, Italy. So when we returned home to NY—which is to us the food capital of the world—we wanted to go back and eat at our current favorite NY Italian restaurant.
A Voce is that place. In Italian it means, “word of mouth.” This is modern Italian cooking with a NY twist. Even though the cuisine is very sophisticated here, one of our favorite dishes is called, “My Grandmother’s Meat Ravioli.” So if you are a pasta lover, this is also your kind of place too.
We remember when Chef Andrew Carmellini was cooking uptown at Café Boulud. For years, this was always our #1 choice in Chef Daniel Boulud's empire of establishments. So when Chef Carmellini went out on his own, we were sure to follow to see what he was up to. Since then, we’ve had several meals at A Voce and always had a great time.
The boss of the dining room is maître d' is Dante Camara, who always wears a big smile you when you walk in. At our last meal he gave us a table by the window because we told him when we made the reservation it was our anniversary. We ordered a perfectly cooked sliced duck breast with roasted figs, and the most delicious marinated chicken breast topped with outrageous looking tomato foam.
After you place your order be sure and have a discussion with the wine director, Oliver Flosse, a native of Marseille, France. When we told him what we were having, he picked out the most delicious Italian red, the 2004 Le Volte, from Tuscany.
The meal ended with a citrus tiramisu made with a Meyer lemon crema that was smooth as silk and a chocolate caramel tartino. There is also a nice selection of Italian cheeses to end the meal.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Food Shop: Bouchon Bakery
10 Columbus Circle
212-823-9363
The Best Brioche Rolls
Last Wednesday, we discovered the best brioche rolls that we ever had at Bouchon Bakery. On a lark, we stopped in at this terrific shop at the Time Warner Center, hoping to find some interesting bread to serve with our Thanksgiving meal, and were delighted to find these little glistening gems nestled in a Bouchon box. Sold only by the dozen ($9), they were made especially for the holiday, but the pleasant staff assured us that the small brioche loaf ($4.50) that is offered on a regular basis is made from the same recipe. And we’re hoping that the rolls will be back during the December holiday season.
If you haven’t already been to Bouchon Bakery, it certainly is worth a detour if you’re in the neighborhood. They also sell a mouth-watering selection of viennoisseries and pastries, and offer soup, sandwiches and salads to go.
A bit of a recap of our Thanksgiving hits and misses. The turkey from Schatzie was absolutely delicious. We were disappointed in the Pugliese Vineyards sparkling wine, but did think the Bedell Cellars 2005 Reserve Merlot was terrific and went extremely well with the Thanksgiving feast. Pat’s rendition of Bill Yosses’ pignoli tart was a good sturdy effort, but not memorable.
212-823-9363
The Best Brioche Rolls
Last Wednesday, we discovered the best brioche rolls that we ever had at Bouchon Bakery. On a lark, we stopped in at this terrific shop at the Time Warner Center, hoping to find some interesting bread to serve with our Thanksgiving meal, and were delighted to find these little glistening gems nestled in a Bouchon box. Sold only by the dozen ($9), they were made especially for the holiday, but the pleasant staff assured us that the small brioche loaf ($4.50) that is offered on a regular basis is made from the same recipe. And we’re hoping that the rolls will be back during the December holiday season.
If you haven’t already been to Bouchon Bakery, it certainly is worth a detour if you’re in the neighborhood. They also sell a mouth-watering selection of viennoisseries and pastries, and offer soup, sandwiches and salads to go.
A bit of a recap of our Thanksgiving hits and misses. The turkey from Schatzie was absolutely delicious. We were disappointed in the Pugliese Vineyards sparkling wine, but did think the Bedell Cellars 2005 Reserve Merlot was terrific and went extremely well with the Thanksgiving feast. Pat’s rendition of Bill Yosses’ pignoli tart was a good sturdy effort, but not memorable.
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Wine Shop: America's Wine Shop
398 3rd Avenue (bet. 28th and 29th Streets)
212-679-1224
http://www.americaswineshop.com/
A Source for Long Island Wines
212-679-1224
http://www.americaswineshop.com/
A Source for Long Island Wines
A quest for a special Long Island sparkling wine for Thanksgiving led us yesterday to America’s Wine Shop (aka McAdam Buy-Rite). It all started on Friday when we read an article in the Wall Street Journal about small-production American bubbly (http://online.wsj.com/article/SB119518541093895468.html). We were especially intrigued by one of the recommended wines, the Pugliese Vineyards Blanc de Noir Nature 2000, and since we were already planning on a Bedell Cellars Merlot for our holiday meal (also from the North Fork of Long Island) this sparkler promised to make an excellent start to the Thanksgiving meal.
When we called up Pugliese Vineyards, we were told that there was only one shop in NYC to carry it, “go to McAdams,” was the direct order! So, off we went, and sure enough, there was a large sheet of paper pasted in the window that claims the McAdam Buy-Rite liquor store has the largest selection of Long Island wines anywhere in the world.
If not for the sign, from the outside you would never know this place specializes in anything. It looks like a run-of-the-mill neighborhood liquor store. The harsh yellow lights coming from the sign over the place says it is a “Buy-Rite” discount store. Inside confusion reigns and boxes are everywhere. And to find wine bottles not covered with dust is a challenge. But all of the Long Island wines are there on the first aisle right when you walk in.
Our advice is to immediately ask for help. If Scott is on the floor you will be in good hands. The gruff check-out guy was another story altogether. He claimed the Long Island list was around 300. Who knows? But we did get exactly what we were looking for: the Pugliese sparkler ($19.99) and the 2005 Bedell Cellars Reserve ($26.99). And as a bonus, Scott enthusiastically suggested a wine to go with Thanksgiving desserts: a 2003 late harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Paumanok Vineyards ($29.99).
We’re off for the Thanksgiving holiday and will be back on Monday.
When we called up Pugliese Vineyards, we were told that there was only one shop in NYC to carry it, “go to McAdams,” was the direct order! So, off we went, and sure enough, there was a large sheet of paper pasted in the window that claims the McAdam Buy-Rite liquor store has the largest selection of Long Island wines anywhere in the world.
If not for the sign, from the outside you would never know this place specializes in anything. It looks like a run-of-the-mill neighborhood liquor store. The harsh yellow lights coming from the sign over the place says it is a “Buy-Rite” discount store. Inside confusion reigns and boxes are everywhere. And to find wine bottles not covered with dust is a challenge. But all of the Long Island wines are there on the first aisle right when you walk in.
Our advice is to immediately ask for help. If Scott is on the floor you will be in good hands. The gruff check-out guy was another story altogether. He claimed the Long Island list was around 300. Who knows? But we did get exactly what we were looking for: the Pugliese sparkler ($19.99) and the 2005 Bedell Cellars Reserve ($26.99). And as a bonus, Scott enthusiastically suggested a wine to go with Thanksgiving desserts: a 2003 late harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Paumanok Vineyards ($29.99).
We’re off for the Thanksgiving holiday and will be back on Monday.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Recipe: Bill Yosses' Pignoli Tart
Back in the 1990's when we published The NY Food Letter, we asked Bill Yosses, then pastry chef at Bouley, and now the pastry chef at the White House, for a Thanksgiving dessert recipe. He suggested his Pignoli Tart, saying, "It's a nice change from pecan pie." Flavored with an apple compote and pistachio cream, this original creation will make a wonderful finish to your holiday meal.
Note: when shopping for pignoli (pine) nuts, be sure to buy ones that come from Spain or Italy, which are elongated in appearance unlike the squat, more commonly found and less expensive variety from China. There is a big difference in flavor and we never use the inferior ones from China.
This tart is made of four different layers. It can be made one day ahead, in which case you should wrap it well and store it at room temperature. If you refrigerate it, make sure it is tightly wrapped with cellophane paper. Bill recommends that home chefs use a kitchen scale to measure ingredients rather than standard measures. It's just as easy and yields more precise results. We've included both measures.
Makes one 10-inch tart
Pignoli Sable Dough
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) pignolis
2 1/4 oz. (or 5/8 cup) confectioner's sugar
5 oz. (or 10 Tbs.) butter
9 oz. (or 2 1/4 cups) cake flour
1 oz. (or 1/8 cup) Sauternes, Malvasia or other sweet wine
Preheat the oven to 375°. Coarsely chop the nuts in a food processor. In a mixer, using the paddle attachment, mix the butter with the sugar and nuts until smooth and creamy. Mix in the flour and then add the wine, little by little until the dough comes together. Using a spatula, spread a 10-inch circle of the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan (or use a 10-inch ring mold). Bake for about 15-18 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool while you prepare the apple compote.
Apple Compote
2 Winesap, Macoun or Golden apples
1 oz (or 1/8 cup + 1 tsp.) granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 vanilla bean
Peel, core and cut each apple into six equal-size pieces and place in a stovetop casserole. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise and use a small spoon to scrape out the seeds. In a small saucepan mix together the water, sugar and the vanilla seeds. Bring to a boil, and cook until it becomes syrupy. Pour the mixture over the apples, cover and simmer over a low heat for about 7-10 minutes or until the apples are tender yet still maintaining their shape. Chop the apple mixture until it becomes spreadable. Spread the compote onto the dough and allow to cool.
Pistachio Cream
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) shelled pistachio nuts
2 1/4 oz. (or 3/8 cup) granulated sugar
2 1/4 oz. (or 4 1/2 Tbs.) butter
1 egg
Chop the pistachios in a food processor until fine. Incorporate the granulated sugar and then the butter. When the mixture is soft, add the egg. Mix until smooth and spread onto the compote. Bake the tart again for about 15 minutes or until a crust forms on the pistachio cream. Remove to cool.
Pignoli Topping
9 oz (or 2 cups) pignolis
1 oz. (or 2 Tbs.) butter
1 oz (or 1/8 cup) honey
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Lower the oven to 325°. On a low flame, saute the pignolis in the butter, honey and rosemary until golden brown. Remove the sprig and place the nuts over the pistachio cream layer and bake an additional 10 minutes. Allow to cool before serving.
Serving Suggestion:
Reheat the tart to warm it through and serve with vanilla ice cream.
Note: when shopping for pignoli (pine) nuts, be sure to buy ones that come from Spain or Italy, which are elongated in appearance unlike the squat, more commonly found and less expensive variety from China. There is a big difference in flavor and we never use the inferior ones from China.
This tart is made of four different layers. It can be made one day ahead, in which case you should wrap it well and store it at room temperature. If you refrigerate it, make sure it is tightly wrapped with cellophane paper. Bill recommends that home chefs use a kitchen scale to measure ingredients rather than standard measures. It's just as easy and yields more precise results. We've included both measures.
Makes one 10-inch tart
Pignoli Sable Dough
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) pignolis
2 1/4 oz. (or 5/8 cup) confectioner's sugar
5 oz. (or 10 Tbs.) butter
9 oz. (or 2 1/4 cups) cake flour
1 oz. (or 1/8 cup) Sauternes, Malvasia or other sweet wine
Preheat the oven to 375°. Coarsely chop the nuts in a food processor. In a mixer, using the paddle attachment, mix the butter with the sugar and nuts until smooth and creamy. Mix in the flour and then add the wine, little by little until the dough comes together. Using a spatula, spread a 10-inch circle of the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan (or use a 10-inch ring mold). Bake for about 15-18 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool while you prepare the apple compote.
Apple Compote
2 Winesap, Macoun or Golden apples
1 oz (or 1/8 cup + 1 tsp.) granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 vanilla bean
Peel, core and cut each apple into six equal-size pieces and place in a stovetop casserole. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise and use a small spoon to scrape out the seeds. In a small saucepan mix together the water, sugar and the vanilla seeds. Bring to a boil, and cook until it becomes syrupy. Pour the mixture over the apples, cover and simmer over a low heat for about 7-10 minutes or until the apples are tender yet still maintaining their shape. Chop the apple mixture until it becomes spreadable. Spread the compote onto the dough and allow to cool.
Pistachio Cream
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) shelled pistachio nuts
2 1/4 oz. (or 3/8 cup) granulated sugar
2 1/4 oz. (or 4 1/2 Tbs.) butter
1 egg
Chop the pistachios in a food processor until fine. Incorporate the granulated sugar and then the butter. When the mixture is soft, add the egg. Mix until smooth and spread onto the compote. Bake the tart again for about 15 minutes or until a crust forms on the pistachio cream. Remove to cool.
Pignoli Topping
9 oz (or 2 cups) pignolis
1 oz. (or 2 Tbs.) butter
1 oz (or 1/8 cup) honey
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Lower the oven to 325°. On a low flame, saute the pignolis in the butter, honey and rosemary until golden brown. Remove the sprig and place the nuts over the pistachio cream layer and bake an additional 10 minutes. Allow to cool before serving.
Serving Suggestion:
Reheat the tart to warm it through and serve with vanilla ice cream.
Friday, November 16, 2007
Food Shop: Morgiewicz Produce
Produce Pick for Thanksgiving
57th Street Greenmarket
Wednesdays and Saturdays, 8AM to 6PM
9th Avenue and 57th Street
We’ve been going to the 57th Street Greenmarket on Saturday mornings this fall. Although there are only a handful of vendors, it’s a nice change from the packed crowds at Union Square. We have nothing against dogs, strollers and cameras, and have ourselves been guilty of all three, but sometimes, it seems, well, just too much of a scene.
So, we were happy to discover Morgiewicz Produce at this calm neighborhood Greenmarket on the border of Hell’s Kitchen. With their extensive selection and terrific quality, we decided this is where we’ll be buying our Thanksgiving produce this year. The owner told us that the soil in Goshen, NY, where they are located, is particularly rich in nutrients and is not the least bit sandy. And to us, the colors and flavors seem just a bit more intense than the usual fare.
Service is always helpful and the prices overall seem to be a tad lower than many of the other farm stands we visit around at the Greenmarkets. Look for a variety of squashes—we made an easy soup with their excellent cheese pumpkin. You’ll also find Brussels sprouts, all kinds of greens, multiple types of potatoes and onions, herbs, celery root, and fennel, just to start the list. The day before Thanksgiving will be their last Wednesday of the season, but they hope to keep up the Saturday schedule until shortly before Christmas.
And if you need local seasonal fruit, the neighboring stand, Toigo Orchards, sells very good apples and pears, albeit a bit pricey.
9th Avenue and 57th Street
We’ve been going to the 57th Street Greenmarket on Saturday mornings this fall. Although there are only a handful of vendors, it’s a nice change from the packed crowds at Union Square. We have nothing against dogs, strollers and cameras, and have ourselves been guilty of all three, but sometimes, it seems, well, just too much of a scene.
So, we were happy to discover Morgiewicz Produce at this calm neighborhood Greenmarket on the border of Hell’s Kitchen. With their extensive selection and terrific quality, we decided this is where we’ll be buying our Thanksgiving produce this year. The owner told us that the soil in Goshen, NY, where they are located, is particularly rich in nutrients and is not the least bit sandy. And to us, the colors and flavors seem just a bit more intense than the usual fare.
Service is always helpful and the prices overall seem to be a tad lower than many of the other farm stands we visit around at the Greenmarkets. Look for a variety of squashes—we made an easy soup with their excellent cheese pumpkin. You’ll also find Brussels sprouts, all kinds of greens, multiple types of potatoes and onions, herbs, celery root, and fennel, just to start the list. The day before Thanksgiving will be their last Wednesday of the season, but they hope to keep up the Saturday schedule until shortly before Christmas.
And if you need local seasonal fruit, the neighboring stand, Toigo Orchards, sells very good apples and pears, albeit a bit pricey.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Wine Shops: Beaujolais Nouveau Day
Found at Wine Shops All Around NY Today
Today is the official release date for the wine that is called Beaujolais Nouveau. No matter where you go in NY, wine shops will have it out on prominent display. This is more the result of good French public relations work than the quality of the product. Beaujolais Nouveau is a light and fruity red that was harvested literally weeks ago. The grapes come from the picturesque vines of the southern Burgundy countryside. Every year on the third Thursday of November we buy a bottle, chill it up, and drink it the same night with dinner. You will find it goes well with a hamburger or a pizza. Expect to pay about $10 a bottle now, and probably a dollar or two less than that in a few weeks.
The release of this wine is supposed to signify the end of the fall harvest. For us, Beaujolais Nouveau Day is sort of an anniversary. In 1994, we wrote about the Nouveau for the New York Daily News. As a result of that story and the big picture of the Georges Duboeuf “flower label” that ran next to it, we were invited to the Beaujolais Nouveau kick-off luncheon at the Rainbow Room. They sat us up front with all of the food and wine dignitaries from France and NY. It was a blast. So tonight we again toast our memory of that event with a bottle of the new vintage.
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Food Shop: Schatzie’s Prime Meats
The Best Thanksgiving Turkey
1200 Madison Avenue (bet. East 87th-88th Streets)
212-410-1555
We have lived on the East Side and the West Side, Brooklyn and Hell’s Kitchen, and are always ready for an excursion to a different neighborhood butcher shop. These are the places that help make NY a food town. But now after more than two decades of cooking a fresh-killed turkey on Thanksgiving Day, we can say the best source for that once-a-year big bird is Schatzie the butcher. His tiny shop is located on Madison Avenue just off East 88h Street.
Schatzie is a character. Check him out on YouTube.
The better you get to know him the more his charming but crude sense of humor comes pouring out. Guaranteed you will leave his store with a smile. Right before Thanksgiving, Schatzie rents two refrigerated trucks that are parked right out front of the store just to handle the orders. The operation pick-up with the huge lists of names on the wall is well run. It is very festive in a NY sort of way.
All he will tell you is that the turkeys come from a farm in Pennsylvania. It doesn’t matter. The roast turkey will have terrifically moist breast meat with a delicious flavor. Standard sizes range from 12 to 32 lbs. with the 18/20 size being the most popular, and there’s even an order this year for a 40-lb. bird. The cost is $3.98 per lb. You can also order an already cooked 18/20 lb. turkey with all the trimmings for $249, but that was never our style. We always use the traditional James Beard recipes especially for the pine nut stuffing. How can you improve on the true American classic dinner?
1200 Madison Avenue (bet. East 87th-88th Streets)
212-410-1555
We have lived on the East Side and the West Side, Brooklyn and Hell’s Kitchen, and are always ready for an excursion to a different neighborhood butcher shop. These are the places that help make NY a food town. But now after more than two decades of cooking a fresh-killed turkey on Thanksgiving Day, we can say the best source for that once-a-year big bird is Schatzie the butcher. His tiny shop is located on Madison Avenue just off East 88h Street.
Schatzie is a character. Check him out on YouTube.
The better you get to know him the more his charming but crude sense of humor comes pouring out. Guaranteed you will leave his store with a smile. Right before Thanksgiving, Schatzie rents two refrigerated trucks that are parked right out front of the store just to handle the orders. The operation pick-up with the huge lists of names on the wall is well run. It is very festive in a NY sort of way.
All he will tell you is that the turkeys come from a farm in Pennsylvania. It doesn’t matter. The roast turkey will have terrifically moist breast meat with a delicious flavor. Standard sizes range from 12 to 32 lbs. with the 18/20 size being the most popular, and there’s even an order this year for a 40-lb. bird. The cost is $3.98 per lb. You can also order an already cooked 18/20 lb. turkey with all the trimmings for $249, but that was never our style. We always use the traditional James Beard recipes especially for the pine nut stuffing. How can you improve on the true American classic dinner?
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Restaurants: Thanksgiving Reservations Made Easy
http://www.opentable.com/
Every year, on the fourth Thursday in November, without fail, we’re out early at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. We head uptown to catch the parade near its starting point, ensuring that we’re back home well before noon. Then, we tune into Channel 4 (or 704 this year in HD?), and we re-watch the end of the parade all while we start our own culinary festivities, taking us into the very late afternoon before our meal is finally on the table. It’s a fun tradition, but who sometimes doesn’t fantasize about just letting someone else do the cooking? Or maybe you’re in town just for the holiday and a restaurant reservation is in order.
We think the folks at http://www.opentable.com/ did a great job this year organizing the details of Thanksgiving menus around town. Gone are the days of thinking about which places might be worth going to and then calling around to see what the menus are like and how much they’ll cost. Just scan the Thanksgiving 2007 link on their home page, and see what appeals to you and how much you’re willing to spend. Your reservation is only a few clicks away.
We’re firm believers that Thanksgiving should be about serving American food and wine, and using local ingredients wherever possible. So, if we had to choose from this restaurant list, our top pick this year would be Porter House New York http://www.porterhousenewyork.com/. We think the chef, Michael Lomonaco, does a terrific job serving up American classics with flair. And the setting at the Time Warner Center with its windows overlooking Columbus Circle is particularly appealing on this festive day in New York City. We had a terrific lunch there early in the year, during NYC Restaurant Week. And the meals at the 21 Club for us were at their best when Michael was at the helm. We’d be happy to leave our Thanksgiving meal in his capable hands, but then what would we do with that turkey we ordered from Schatzie? More on that tomorrow…
Every year, on the fourth Thursday in November, without fail, we’re out early at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. We head uptown to catch the parade near its starting point, ensuring that we’re back home well before noon. Then, we tune into Channel 4 (or 704 this year in HD?), and we re-watch the end of the parade all while we start our own culinary festivities, taking us into the very late afternoon before our meal is finally on the table. It’s a fun tradition, but who sometimes doesn’t fantasize about just letting someone else do the cooking? Or maybe you’re in town just for the holiday and a restaurant reservation is in order.
We think the folks at http://www.opentable.com/ did a great job this year organizing the details of Thanksgiving menus around town. Gone are the days of thinking about which places might be worth going to and then calling around to see what the menus are like and how much they’ll cost. Just scan the Thanksgiving 2007 link on their home page, and see what appeals to you and how much you’re willing to spend. Your reservation is only a few clicks away.
We’re firm believers that Thanksgiving should be about serving American food and wine, and using local ingredients wherever possible. So, if we had to choose from this restaurant list, our top pick this year would be Porter House New York http://www.porterhousenewyork.com/. We think the chef, Michael Lomonaco, does a terrific job serving up American classics with flair. And the setting at the Time Warner Center with its windows overlooking Columbus Circle is particularly appealing on this festive day in New York City. We had a terrific lunch there early in the year, during NYC Restaurant Week. And the meals at the 21 Club for us were at their best when Michael was at the helm. We’d be happy to leave our Thanksgiving meal in his capable hands, but then what would we do with that turkey we ordered from Schatzie? More on that tomorrow…
Monday, November 12, 2007
Wine Shop: Tinto Fino
Vinos de España
85 First Avenue (bet. 5th & 6th Streets)
212-254-0850
http://www.tintofino.com/
If you’re interested in discovering Spanish wines outside of the more typical riojas found in NY wine shops, then head over to the East Village and go to Tinto Fino, a tiny gem of a shop that opened about a year ago. Grouped by geographic region, there are usually about 150 different wines in stock, many of which you won’t find at any other wine store in New York.
When we were there today, the selection seemed mostly skewed to what we call “special occasion” wines ($20-$30+), i.e., not in our everyday budget. But salesperson Stephanie said that she was just about to replenish after the weekend, since the shop tries to have representation in the $7-15 range as well. Stephanie was knowledgeable, helpful, and enthusiastic without being the least bit overbearing. Shortly after we walked into the shop, she offered us a taste of this week’s featured wine, the Descendientes Pétalos 2006 Bierzo, ($23) which she explained is made from mencía, an indigenous Spanish grape. The featured wine is offered at a 10% discount, and the store usually offers tastings once a week.
Tinto Fino has just launched a new website, and is offering 15% off all wines purchased online (minimum of 6 bottles) in November. If you visit, bear in mind that the store keeps “East Village” hours, currently 12PM to 10PM Monday through Saturday; and 1PM to 9PM on Sunday.
85 First Avenue (bet. 5th & 6th Streets)
212-254-0850
http://www.tintofino.com/
If you’re interested in discovering Spanish wines outside of the more typical riojas found in NY wine shops, then head over to the East Village and go to Tinto Fino, a tiny gem of a shop that opened about a year ago. Grouped by geographic region, there are usually about 150 different wines in stock, many of which you won’t find at any other wine store in New York.
When we were there today, the selection seemed mostly skewed to what we call “special occasion” wines ($20-$30+), i.e., not in our everyday budget. But salesperson Stephanie said that she was just about to replenish after the weekend, since the shop tries to have representation in the $7-15 range as well. Stephanie was knowledgeable, helpful, and enthusiastic without being the least bit overbearing. Shortly after we walked into the shop, she offered us a taste of this week’s featured wine, the Descendientes Pétalos 2006 Bierzo, ($23) which she explained is made from mencía, an indigenous Spanish grape. The featured wine is offered at a 10% discount, and the store usually offers tastings once a week.
Tinto Fino has just launched a new website, and is offering 15% off all wines purchased online (minimum of 6 bottles) in November. If you visit, bear in mind that the store keeps “East Village” hours, currently 12PM to 10PM Monday through Saturday; and 1PM to 9PM on Sunday.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Event: Chocolate Show
November 9-11, 2007
Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building
125 West 18th Street (bet. 6th & 7th Avenues)
http://www.chocolateshow.com/
I went to the annual Chocolate Show New York this afternoon. Bill declined my invitation; apparently he was the wiser.
The show opened at 11 AM; I got there at 1:30PM. Admission was $28 (cash only) and it was quite packed. And as crowded and uncomfortable as it was for me today, I expect it will only be more so over the weekend.
There were more than 60 booths hosted by companies from all over the country and some importers as well. Only a handful of well known New York City chocolatiers set up camp: Jacques Torres, Payard, and Christopher Norman, and only Jacques Torres was offering samples. The other two had “run out.”
A few things were of interest. Mary’s Chocolatier of Tokyo (http://www.mary.co.jp/) was quite good and had a team of artists demonstrating their “seasonal flower” decorating techniques. Theo Chocolate (http://www.theochocolate/) from Seattle offered a generous array of tastings of their fine fair trade certified chocolate bars. But beyond that, there wasn’t much I could get too excited about.
Here are other things I did see: an artist selling a collage of wrappers from chocolate that she had eaten ($6,000—I am not making this up); a “fashion show” of mannequins all of whom had some component of their costume made in chocolate; Capital One trying to get attendees to sign up for a credit card in exchange for a free fleece blanket; and an adult walking around in a monkey costume (a tie-in to a peanut butter product).
Coincidentally and by contrast, we were walking around SoHo yesterday afternoon and stopped in at three charming and different chocolate shops within a 10-minute radius of each other: Kee’s, MarieBelle, and Vosges. The latter two graciously offered samples of their confections, and MarieBelle even gave us small cups of hot chocolate. At Kee’s we bought two exquisite chocolates ($2.16 each) that were freshly made that day. It was a delightful and rewarding mini-chocolate tour for a New York chocolate lover.
We’ll return to a Spanish theme with our next report on Monday.
--PMM
Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building
125 West 18th Street (bet. 6th & 7th Avenues)
http://www.chocolateshow.com/
I went to the annual Chocolate Show New York this afternoon. Bill declined my invitation; apparently he was the wiser.
The show opened at 11 AM; I got there at 1:30PM. Admission was $28 (cash only) and it was quite packed. And as crowded and uncomfortable as it was for me today, I expect it will only be more so over the weekend.
There were more than 60 booths hosted by companies from all over the country and some importers as well. Only a handful of well known New York City chocolatiers set up camp: Jacques Torres, Payard, and Christopher Norman, and only Jacques Torres was offering samples. The other two had “run out.”
A few things were of interest. Mary’s Chocolatier of Tokyo (http://www.mary.co.jp/) was quite good and had a team of artists demonstrating their “seasonal flower” decorating techniques. Theo Chocolate (http://www.theochocolate/) from Seattle offered a generous array of tastings of their fine fair trade certified chocolate bars. But beyond that, there wasn’t much I could get too excited about.
Here are other things I did see: an artist selling a collage of wrappers from chocolate that she had eaten ($6,000—I am not making this up); a “fashion show” of mannequins all of whom had some component of their costume made in chocolate; Capital One trying to get attendees to sign up for a credit card in exchange for a free fleece blanket; and an adult walking around in a monkey costume (a tie-in to a peanut butter product).
Coincidentally and by contrast, we were walking around SoHo yesterday afternoon and stopped in at three charming and different chocolate shops within a 10-minute radius of each other: Kee’s, MarieBelle, and Vosges. The latter two graciously offered samples of their confections, and MarieBelle even gave us small cups of hot chocolate. At Kee’s we bought two exquisite chocolates ($2.16 each) that were freshly made that day. It was a delightful and rewarding mini-chocolate tour for a New York chocolate lover.
We’ll return to a Spanish theme with our next report on Monday.
--PMM
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Food Shop: Despaña
408 Broome Street (between Lafayette and Centre Streets)
212-219-5050
www.despananyc.com
We love this appealing Spanish import food shop with a SoHo vibe. Opened just last year, we think it’s become an instant NYC food classic.
Part of the fun of Despaña is just walking around and trying the products. Samples are generously offered throughout the store. Last visit we tasted four cheeses, three meats, red pepper spread, olive oils, vinegars and a fantastic and intriguing cactus-banana confiture.
When we were there on Thursday at lunchtime, the two men behind the counter were in perpetual motion, one slicing ham, and the other weighing and cutting cheeses. This shop carries 55 kinds of cheese imported from Spain and an assortment of meats including Serrano ham and their own chorizo sausages.
Despaña calls them “bocadillos,” but we just call them some of the best sandwiches around. Served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread (our current vote for NYC’s best bread--more on this another day), there are about a dozen choices, most costing $8, and all feature ingredients for sale in the shop. Do try the terrific “picante,” served warm, and made with spicy chorizo, Mahon cheese, Basque guindilla peppers, tomatoes and aioli. They also serve a limited selection of tapas, Pintxos (little dishes from the Basque region) and desserts. There’s limited seating to eat there—three small marble countertops each with two stools, and a wooden bench out front.
The floor-to-ceiling shelves lining one wall of the store are well stocked with sweet and savory staples, cookware including paella pans, and even cookbooks. Quality is tops at Despaña, and the prices fairly reflect that.
212-219-5050
www.despananyc.com
We love this appealing Spanish import food shop with a SoHo vibe. Opened just last year, we think it’s become an instant NYC food classic.
Part of the fun of Despaña is just walking around and trying the products. Samples are generously offered throughout the store. Last visit we tasted four cheeses, three meats, red pepper spread, olive oils, vinegars and a fantastic and intriguing cactus-banana confiture.
When we were there on Thursday at lunchtime, the two men behind the counter were in perpetual motion, one slicing ham, and the other weighing and cutting cheeses. This shop carries 55 kinds of cheese imported from Spain and an assortment of meats including Serrano ham and their own chorizo sausages.
Despaña calls them “bocadillos,” but we just call them some of the best sandwiches around. Served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread (our current vote for NYC’s best bread--more on this another day), there are about a dozen choices, most costing $8, and all feature ingredients for sale in the shop. Do try the terrific “picante,” served warm, and made with spicy chorizo, Mahon cheese, Basque guindilla peppers, tomatoes and aioli. They also serve a limited selection of tapas, Pintxos (little dishes from the Basque region) and desserts. There’s limited seating to eat there—three small marble countertops each with two stools, and a wooden bench out front.
The floor-to-ceiling shelves lining one wall of the store are well stocked with sweet and savory staples, cookware including paella pans, and even cookbooks. Quality is tops at Despaña, and the prices fairly reflect that.
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
Restaurant: Pamplona
37 E. 28th Street (bet. Park & Madison Avenues)
212-213-2328
http://www.pamplonanyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/
Dining at Pamplona Last Night
Funny to open up the New York Times this morning to read Frank Bruni’s review of Pamplona. We were just there for dinner last night with our friend Steve Geerts of John Varvatos and had an all round terrific meal. For years, we’ve considered Alex Ureña to be in the top echelon of New York City chefs, yet one who never quite gets the recognition that we think he deserves. We hope that Mr. Bruni’s favorable review will encourage more people to try Alex’s new venue.
Why You Should Go
Pamplona is a casual place serving seriously good Spanish food. Prices are extremely reasonable considering the quality delivered. What comes on the plate is the one but absolutely compelling reason to make your reservation at Pamplona. Keep in mind that the décor is very simple, neither exciting nor offensive. Service is okay; if last night’s dinner is any indication, it can be pleasant, but not always attentive and at times quite slow.
The Menu
It seems you can’t miss by starting to nibble on the tapas, little dishes in the $4-6 range. Just pick what sounds appealing to you. Last night we sampled various meats (embutidos) and cheese balls (quesos). All absolutely delicious! Moving on, we all loved our first courses, trying three different choices: the poached shrimp with creamy Manchego rice and fresh chorizo sauce, the cured tuna sliced thin with sobreasada aioli, and the truffle oil poached egg with white asparagus salad, fresh chorizo and pimiento del piquillo sauce. Expect to pay in the $9-14 range for your first course.
Sea scallops with salsify, shiitake mushrooms morcilla, Cantipalo, Vizcaina ($24), the slow cooked chicken with artichoke-truffle puree and oyster mushrooms ($20), and the “hamburguesa,” a beef suckling pig and chorizo burger server with salad and fries ($18) were our main course selections.
The burger was addictive and like nothing any of us ever tasted. Alex explained that he uses a lesser known soft chorizo as one of the ingredients. (In fact, while “chorizo” appears all over the menu, Alex explained that he actually works with nine different varieties in Pamplona’s menu.) Steve insisted he was coming back over the weekend to eat the burger again! The scallop dish disappeared in a New York minute. Only some of the chicken was left on the plate. It was incredibly rich and too intensely truffled for our taste, especially after all that we had already eaten.
We looked at the dessert menu, but the choices did not leave us feeling compelled to order anything. Perhaps next time we’ll try, but Mr. Bruni’s comments today led some credibility to our gut reaction to take a pass.
The Bar/Cocktails/Wine List
There is an appealing, comfortable bar when you walk in. Last night while waiting for our friend to arrive we witnessed a solo diner having a terrific time ordering up several tapas and an appetizer (entrada) while sipping a glass of red wine. The amiable bartender gave him a second glass on the house. We would think it would be a great place to meet up, and even if you can’t stay for dinner, just have a glass of wine and some tapas. There are some house cocktails with a Spanish accent, house Sangria, and a wine list dedicated exclusively to Spanish wines.
On a Personal Note
We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Alex Ureña, and he and his wife Martine, who runs the dining room, have always been sincerely appreciative of our compliments and repeat visits over the years.
We first met Alex at Marseille in Hell’s Kitchen in 2000, followed him to Suba on the Lower East Side a few years ago and visited Ureña last year. Five weeks ago, Alex and Martine reopened the space into the current Pamplona (and had a baby girl six weeks ago!) Say hello to Martine when you come in & tell her that Pat & Bill sent you. If she’s not there, then ask the waitstaff to let Chef Alex know.
212-213-2328
http://www.pamplonanyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/
Dining at Pamplona Last Night
Funny to open up the New York Times this morning to read Frank Bruni’s review of Pamplona. We were just there for dinner last night with our friend Steve Geerts of John Varvatos and had an all round terrific meal. For years, we’ve considered Alex Ureña to be in the top echelon of New York City chefs, yet one who never quite gets the recognition that we think he deserves. We hope that Mr. Bruni’s favorable review will encourage more people to try Alex’s new venue.
Why You Should Go
Pamplona is a casual place serving seriously good Spanish food. Prices are extremely reasonable considering the quality delivered. What comes on the plate is the one but absolutely compelling reason to make your reservation at Pamplona. Keep in mind that the décor is very simple, neither exciting nor offensive. Service is okay; if last night’s dinner is any indication, it can be pleasant, but not always attentive and at times quite slow.
The Menu
It seems you can’t miss by starting to nibble on the tapas, little dishes in the $4-6 range. Just pick what sounds appealing to you. Last night we sampled various meats (embutidos) and cheese balls (quesos). All absolutely delicious! Moving on, we all loved our first courses, trying three different choices: the poached shrimp with creamy Manchego rice and fresh chorizo sauce, the cured tuna sliced thin with sobreasada aioli, and the truffle oil poached egg with white asparagus salad, fresh chorizo and pimiento del piquillo sauce. Expect to pay in the $9-14 range for your first course.
Sea scallops with salsify, shiitake mushrooms morcilla, Cantipalo, Vizcaina ($24), the slow cooked chicken with artichoke-truffle puree and oyster mushrooms ($20), and the “hamburguesa,” a beef suckling pig and chorizo burger server with salad and fries ($18) were our main course selections.
The burger was addictive and like nothing any of us ever tasted. Alex explained that he uses a lesser known soft chorizo as one of the ingredients. (In fact, while “chorizo” appears all over the menu, Alex explained that he actually works with nine different varieties in Pamplona’s menu.) Steve insisted he was coming back over the weekend to eat the burger again! The scallop dish disappeared in a New York minute. Only some of the chicken was left on the plate. It was incredibly rich and too intensely truffled for our taste, especially after all that we had already eaten.
We looked at the dessert menu, but the choices did not leave us feeling compelled to order anything. Perhaps next time we’ll try, but Mr. Bruni’s comments today led some credibility to our gut reaction to take a pass.
The Bar/Cocktails/Wine List
There is an appealing, comfortable bar when you walk in. Last night while waiting for our friend to arrive we witnessed a solo diner having a terrific time ordering up several tapas and an appetizer (entrada) while sipping a glass of red wine. The amiable bartender gave him a second glass on the house. We would think it would be a great place to meet up, and even if you can’t stay for dinner, just have a glass of wine and some tapas. There are some house cocktails with a Spanish accent, house Sangria, and a wine list dedicated exclusively to Spanish wines.
On a Personal Note
We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Alex Ureña, and he and his wife Martine, who runs the dining room, have always been sincerely appreciative of our compliments and repeat visits over the years.
We first met Alex at Marseille in Hell’s Kitchen in 2000, followed him to Suba on the Lower East Side a few years ago and visited Ureña last year. Five weeks ago, Alex and Martine reopened the space into the current Pamplona (and had a baby girl six weeks ago!) Say hello to Martine when you come in & tell her that Pat & Bill sent you. If she’s not there, then ask the waitstaff to let Chef Alex know.
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