Thursday, December 13, 2007

Restaurant: Les Halles




411 Park Avenue South (bet. 28th and 29th Streets)
212-679-4111
http://www.leshalles.net/
http://www.opentable.com/

The name of the place is actually Brasserie Les Halles, and we sometimes go there when we have a yearning for Paris and tickets on Air France have not yet been booked. The large mirrors and the French posters inside can transport your mind to the other side of the Atlantic, and quite frankly the food here is better than a lot of the bistros in Paris.

Over the years, Les Halles has become one of our favorite NY steakhouses. The dish we almost always order is a cut of beef called hanger steak, which in French is called onglet. It is a long, thin piece of beef that can be a little bit chewy but has a real beefy flavor. Here it is quickly pan fried over a high heat to sear in the bloody juices. Served with a shallot sauce made with a rich beef stock and red wine, it comes with a pile of piping hot French fries and some mixed greens that wilt on the hot oval platter. This is a great value meal for $21, and especially hits the spot when it’s cold outside.

A unique and terrific thing about Les Halles is that you can buy the very same hanger steak from the butcher shop located at the front of the restaurant. It costs $10.50 a pound, and don’t forget to order some of the unadvertised shallot sauce for an extra $5 (roughly eight ounces). The last time we bought this rich thick brown sauce it was still warm from simmering on the stovetop. Be forewarned: the butcher shop hours are constantly changing and service can be slow.

If you look at their website you will see they now have other locations around the U.S., and you can read about the chef turned author and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. His first book, Kitchen Confidential is a fun read for anyone who wants to know what really goes on inside the professional food world.

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