NY Food and Wine

Restaurant: Weekend Brunch at Tía Pol

2008-04-04T15:43:00.006-04:00

205 Tenth Avenue (bet. 22nd and 23rd Streets)
212-675-8805
http://www.tiapol.com/

We enthusiastically recommend this tapas bar for brunch. On a Saturday morning a few weeks ago, we walked in right at opening time (11 AM) and were the first to arrive. In the ensuing hour, more customers wandered in, but the place was never more than half full.

The brunch dishes we tried that morning were amazingly good. Something as deceptively simple sounding as a watercress salad with ham and poached egg ($9) was perfection. The ham was a sublime Serrano, enhanced by a wonderfully fresh and fruity olive oil. Scrambled eggs with chorizo ($8) sounds so basic, but at Tía Pol, it’s something else. The eggs, nearly orange in color from the chorizo juices, were cooked to a perfect creamy consistency with the sausage giving just the right amount of spice to the dish.

The long, extremely narrow room is spare, with only about eight high tables, each with a few stools. At the bar, there are a few more seats where you can view many Spanish wines displayed on shelves. Rumor has it that Tía Pol is impossibly busy at night during peak times, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. Our waitress told us that Sunday night can be a calmer time to come. We’ll happily return to try the tapas as a way to end the weekend on a high culinary note. And without a doubt, the calm setting, delicious food and reasonable prices make it a repeat weekend brunch destination for us.

Wine Shop: Le Dû’s Wines

2008-04-01T17:29:00.004-04:00

600 Washington Street (bet. Leroy & Morton Streets)
212-924-6999
http://www.leduwines.com/

We had the opportunity to meet the engaging sommelier Jean-Luc Le Dû several times during the years he worked with Daniel Boulud. To us, his knowledge of wine seemed bottomless and his enthusiasm was contagious. In 2005, he opened his own wine shop on a quiet strip of Washington Street in the way West Village.

A few weeks ago, we stopped in at Le Dû’s Wines. It’s a spacious, almost industrial place, kept to a cool 65 degrees. And the back room, where the highest of the high end wines (many bought from estates) are stored, is even cooler, around 55 degrees.

There is an emphasis on small producers from the classic wine producing regions around the world. Service is extremely helpful; salespeople will happily spend time talking about what they like and why. They will also do a search if you're looking for a rare bottle. And, while we've never tried it, we understand that they will conduct private tastings.

Prices are high. Delivery is free in the immediate local area; and to other neighborhoods with purchases over $200. A 15% case discount is available.

Fee-based classes are usually scheduled on Wednesdays, and free tastings are offered on Saturday afternoons from 3 to 6 pm. Details are on the website.

Road Trip: Burdick Chocolates

2008-03-31T15:34:00.002-04:00

47 Main Street
Walpole, New Hampshire
800-229-2419
http://www.burdickchocolate.com/

We missed a posting on Tuesday, March 11, because Pat was traveling up to New Hampshire, stopping in Walpole along the way. About four hours north of New York City, this New England town is home to Burdick Chocolates, one of our all-time favorite chocolate makers anywhere in the world.

Larry Burdick started his business in Red Hook, Brooklyn, in 1987 and later moved to East 93rd Street in Manhattan. In 1993, he moved with his family to this village in the southwest corner of New Hampshire and set up operations there. While we have been fans of Burdick chocolates from the start, we can honestly say they’ve never been better.

Burdick views chocolate as part of the whole gastronomic experience—a nice ending to a special meal. He claims that the way to make quality chocolates is very simple: Just use the best ingredients and sell the product at its freshest.

Extracts and flavorings are taboo. Instead, coffees and teas are brewed, fresh fruits are cooked. Nuts come from California and Turkey, vanilla beans from Mexico, milk and cream from local dairies. The chocolate base, Valrhona from France, is widely considered the best available. Burdick chocolates are cut and shaped by hand, which according to the chocolate maker, gives a more pleasant eating experience.

When you open a box of Burdick chocolates, the first surprise is their appearance. They are delicate, imperfectly shaped, and tiny—about 80 pieces per pound. More astonishing is how wonderful and fresh they taste. Each piece melts in your mouth as the flavors unfold. In the quarter-pound box ($15) that we bought, there were about 20 varieties. There seems to be a subtle surprise in every bite. Take the Richelieu, a milk and dark chocolate interior with cherry liquor, cherries and an unexpected hint of cumin seeds.

Burdick packaging is always lovely and the business has expanded to include nice choices for wedding favors and corporate gifts, all the while maintaining top quality. Special attention is given to all holidays, from expected ones like Valentine’s Day and Mother’s Day to smaller ones like St. Patrick’s Day and Chinese New Year.

The Main Street location in Walpole is home to a restaurant, café and chocolate shop. But you don’t have to take the trip. With a click of your mouse, you can have Burdick chocolates delivered to your door in about a day’s time.

On Spring Break

2008-03-25T15:05:00.001-04:00

We'll be back on Monday, March 31.

Food Shop: La Guli Pastry

2008-03-19T10:40:00.003-04:00

25-19 Ditmars Blvd., Queens
718-728-5612
http://www.laguli.com/

Today, March 19th, is Saint Joseph’s Day. In Italy, they celebrate the feast of San Giuseppe by enjoying a special pastry, which here in NY is referred to as a St. Joseph Cake. There are bakeries all over town that sell these tasty Sicilian treats, but one of our favorite sources is the La Guli Pastry Shop, located in the Astoria section of Queens since 1937.

There are two kinds of St. Joseph Cakes. Both are made with fried zeppole dough; the difference is in the filling. One is called the sfinge, and it contains a sweetened ricotta cream filling that is also found in the cannoli—another famous Italian pastry. The sfinge at La Guli’s is substantial, and is studded with chocolate chips and topped with a slice of candied orange peel along with a cherry. The other St. Joseph cake has a custard cream filing and it too is topped with a cherry. The La Guli website has a nice picture of both kinds in the pastry section. They sell for $2.75 each and every year around this time, we have an excuse to sample them both in commemoration of St. Joseph’s Day.

Wine Shop: Appellation Wine and Spirits

2008-03-18T14:24:00.002-04:00

156 Tenth Avenue (bet. 19th and 20th Streets)
212-741-9474
http://www.appellationnyc.com/

This past Saturday, while wandering around Chelsea, we stopped in at Appellation Wine and Spirits. This inviting, boutique-like shop, which opened in 2005, specializes in wines with organic, biodynamic or sustainable origins. About 70% of Appellation’s inventory carries one of these designations.

Shopping here can be a pleasant experience for both oenophiles and non-oenophiles alike. With its clean, modern layout and well-labeled racks, you could happily spend serious time here browsing. Shopping with someone not so interested? A pair of chairs and an assortment of magazines are available for those who would rather sit it out. A child in tow? No problem. Chances are he will be offered a seat at a table and be given a toy to play with. We found the service to be friendly, informed and helpful, and the more we looked, the more we wanted to drink organic.

As often the case with small, specialized shops like this, the selection is concentrated in more expensive wines, with few bottles under $15. But we did find the Chono Carménère 2006 for $12.99. We opened it last night, and were very satisifed with this robust, dark, fruity red from Chile. We plan to go back for more.

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Free tastings are usually held on Saturday afternoons from 3 to 6 PM. A 10% case discount is offered and delivery is free with purchases over $100.

Chocolate Shop: Easter Treats at Li-Lac Chocolates

2008-03-17T16:29:00.003-04:00

40 Eighth Avenue (at Jane Street)
212-924-2280

Grand Central Terminal Market Hall
212-370-4866

http://www.li-lacchocolates.com/

If you’re looking for good, old-fashioned, made-in-NY Easter candy this week, you can’t go wrong with a visit to Li-Lac Chocolates. And do try to go to the Village location, both for the festive display and wider selection. This past Saturday afternoon, we were beckoned into that shop by the giant chocolate bunnies and treat-filled baskets in the window. Inside, the shelves were brimming with dozens and dozens of Easter goodies, including bags of jelly beans, different flavored filled eggs, and every size and shape bunny imaginable.

This NY chocolate institution has been around since 1923. When we wrote our original chocolate book, we remember visiting at the old Christopher Street location and watching the candy being made in the back, starting in an ancient copper cooker, and ending with the chocolates cooling on a long, moving conveyer belt. Three years ago, the retail shop moved to its current location (with an additional outpost already in Grand Central), and the factory relocated to the Sunset Park neighborhood in Brooklyn.

Some of our standard Li-Lac favorites are the chocolate-covered orange slices, nut fudge, buttercrunch, and freshly made chocolate-covered cherries ($1.85 each). Much of what is sold by weight is in the range of $25/lb. Li-Lac has a fantastic collection of molds, including antique metal ones from Germany, so no matter what time of year, you’ll be sure to find chocolate in a shape to suit the occasion.

Recipe: Irish Soda Bread

2008-03-14T13:55:00.003-04:00

This recipe has been in Bill's family for decades and is a traditional St. Patrick's Day treat for us.

4 cups flour
1 ½ tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
¾ cup sugar
1 cup raisins
1 TBS. caraway seeds
2 TBS. melted butter
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 ½ cups buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Add the sugar, caraway seeds and raisins. In a separate bowl, mix together the remaining ingredients and stir into the flour mixture. Mix until all the flour is moistened. Shape into a round loaf and place in a greased two-quart casserole dish. Cut across the top with a knife. Bake for one hour.

Food Find: Fried Dumplings

2008-03-13T08:00:00.002-04:00

102 Mosco Street (bet. Mott and Mulberry Streets) No phone or website

The best part about jury duty is lunch hour. You have Chinatown directly behind the courthouse, and most of the establishments offer dirt cheap lunch specials. It is fun to sit at large round communal tables, and the food arrives super fast--so have your chopsticks in hand ready to eat.

A few weeks ago, while walking around and looking for a crowded place, the absolute best lunch value in NY was discovered. On tiny Mosco Street, right behind the Church of the Transfiguration, there is a four-stool hole-in-the-wall that sells fried pork dumplings at the unbelievable price of five dumplings for $1. They are a nice size with a bit of scallion, and you can watch the two ladies make them as you eat. A bottle of hot sauce and a vinegar solution are the only condiments. Local shop workers, court officers and attorneys come and go and take-out is very popular. Our advice is to keep your plate because it’s likely that you’re going back for five more!

The lady with the serving ladle also sells 30 frozen dumplings for $5, which we will try the next time when we have our ice cooler with us.

Food Shop: Chocolate Bread at Amy's

2008-03-12T07:41:00.005-04:00

Available Only on Saturdays at all three locations:
672 Ninth Avenue (bet. 46th & 47th Streets) 212-977-2670
75 Ninth Avenue (bet. 15th & 16th Streets) 212-462-4338
250 Bleecker Streetat (at Leroy Street) 212-675-7802
http://www.amysbreads.com/

One recent Saturday morning, we stopped in at Amy's Bread in Hell's Kitchen. This tiny shop is always busy, often with the fast-moving line going out the door. Right away we noticed a large dark round loaf on display, with a sign sticking in it, "Decadent Chocolate Cherry Bread, $6.95." Yes, New York chocolate lovers can have chocolate bread, even if it's only one day a week. It's quite good, flavored with Valrhona cocoa and studded with dried cherries and chunks of Callebaut chocolate pieces. And, David Chasen, the production manager at Amy's swears it makes outrageous French toast! Sounds like a good breakfast idea to us.

Wine Expo Report

2008-03-10T13:54:00.003-04:00

On Saturday afternoon, we stopped in at the 1st Annual New York Wine Expo. Despite the pelting rain and $95 admission fee, seemingly enough wine lovers decided it was worth the trek to the Javits Center to meet winemakers and sample some 600 wines. The aisles were quite crowded and at some stations, you had to wait for a taste. And don’t get us started trying to understand the mobs lining up to taste a cube of Cabot’s cheddar cheese. If you wanted to attend one of the special seminars offered, you would have needed to ante up another $30-35. But there were a few things of interest.

City Winery will be opening in the fall of this year in a 21,000 square foot building on Varick Street. Starting with a $5,000 membership fee and then adding in production charges, the winery will help you buy grapes, work with their winemaker and create a barrel of your very own wine, which will yield about 250 bottles (you can create the label too). Figure on around $30 per bottle for something simple. http://www.citywinery.com/

Aeration for better tasting wine seems to be a trend. Taste of Purple sells wine glasses with a patented “dimple” that greatly increases the aeration when the wine is swirled. http://www.tasteofpurple.com/ And the Wine Enthusiast said a big seller lately has been the Vinturi Wine Aerator for $39.95. Through this six-inch hand-held device, you’re able to mix in air as you pour wine. http://www.wineenthusiast.com/

Francis Ford Coppola has introduced a new line of wines called, “Director’s Cut” that are made from grapes grown in the “very best vineyards in Sonoma County,” according to the rep who was pouring tastes. We tried the Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alexander Valley, which was quite good. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel will also be sold under this new label. www.rossobianco.com/#wines_dc

NY Wine Weekend

2008-03-07T08:15:00.001-05:00

This evening kicks off with the 1st Annual New York Wine Expo at the Javits Center. Tickets are a whopping $85 for Friday evening and $95 for Saturday afternoon. But you can save $10 by buying tickets online before 5 pm today. http://www.wine-expos.com/wine/ny. The organizers advertise that there will be 170 wine producers and you can sample over 600 products from around the world.

This may be a bit much, even for us, so we decided to find out what might be more our style—a few wines and $0.

The charming Spanish wine shop in the East Village, Tinto Fino is hosting a tasting of three styles of sherry served with samples from Abraço, a new neighborhood coffeehouse (sort of) that sells a variety of sweet and savory treats on Saturday from 4 to 7 pm. http://www.tintofino.com/

Le Dû’s Wines in the West Village will be pouring Bernard Moreu’s Chassagne Montrachet 2005 and Saint Aubin 1er Cru “En Remilly” 2005 on Friday from 6 to 8 pm, and then four Australiain wines on Saturday from 3 to 6 pm. http://www.leduwines.com/

Astor Wines in the landmark De Vinne Press Building in Noho is hosting its fourth annual Natural Wine Event on Saturday from 3 to 5 pm, with tastings from six natural French winemakers. And on Friday evening, from 6-8 pm, they are hosting a triple header: Scandinavian glogg, French Classiques (from Gascony), and Northern Italian wines. http://www.astorwines.com/

Union Square Wines & Spirits is holding an International Women’s Day Tasting on Saturday from 2 to 5 pm. They will be serving wines from female winemakers and producers from all over the world—Germany, Austria, Italy, California, Oregon, Chile, Argentina, and beyond. http://www.unionsquarewines.com/

Start off the weekend with a pop! The Chelsea Wine Vault has scheduled a Gosset Champagne Tasting on Friday from 4 to 7 pm, and then is offering a “Top Ten Tasting” on Saturday from 2 to 5 pm. http://www.chelseawinevault.com/

Upper Eastsiders don’t have to leave the hood. This Friday from 5 to 8 pm, McCabe’s will serve wines from Metropolis Imports and on Saturday from 4 to 7 pm wines from Gabriella Imports. The shop is at 1347 Third Avenue on the corner of 77th Street, telephone 212-737-0790 (no website). They usually have 2 to 4 wines open and offer a 10% discount on the wines tasted that day.

Have a pleasant weekend!

Restaurants: A Tale of Two Pizzas

2008-03-06T14:00:00.003-05:00

Adrienne’s Pizzabar
54 Stone Street (off Broad Street)

212-248-3838
http://www.adriennespizzabar.com/

Grimaldi’s Pizzeria
19 Old Fulton St. (under the Brooklyn Bridge)
718-858-4300

http://www.grimaldis.com/

Early last Friday evening, we ventured down to the Financial District and tried the super-thin crust pizzas at Adrienne’s Pizzabar—they were excellent! If you’re a fan of crusts that are more snappy wafer than chewy bread, you owe it to yourself to try an individual pie here, available with about a dozen different toppings. Reportedly, this place is packed and crazy during lunchtime and later at night, but during our experience in the early evening, we found it pleasantly quiet with attentive service.

It turned into a pizza weekend for us, because on Saturday, we found ourselves driving over the Brooklyn Bridge and in Dumbo. We decided to stop in at Grimaldi’s Pizzeria, where we hadn’t been for years. It was lunchtime and there was a long line waiting outside to get in. We obediently took our place, and about 35 minutes later, we were seated at a communal table. The classic pie came with a good and fresh tomato sauce, standard mozzarella cheese, and a crust slightly charred with a pleasant flavor from the coal-fired ovens. It was actually thicker and chewier than we remember. Perhaps we were cold from waiting outside for so long, but while good enough, we agreed that the Grimaldi pie wasn’t worth a special trip or a long wait outside.

Wine Shop: Hudson Wine Merchants

2008-03-04T16:12:00.001-05:00

341½ Warren Street, Hudson, NY
518-828-6411
Periodic Free Deliveries to Manhattan
www.hudsonwinemerchants.com

We belong to that group of New Yorkers affectionately known as “weekend warriors.” For the past dozen years, we’ve traveled back and forth to Columbia County when our schedule permits. Over this time, we’ve happily witnessed the revival of the little city of Hudson, and we cheered in 2004 when Hudson Wine Merchants opened up in town.

It’s a charming shop—exposed brick walls, sleeping dog on the floor, and an attractive array of wines arranged mostly by region. Whether we need a bottle for a simple dinner or are planning a more elaborate party for a group, we gladly put our trust in co-owner Michael Albin for his recommendations. He loves, loves to talk wine, and we think does an excellent job of stocking his shelves with interesting selections at good values. It’s difficult to think of another wine shop owner who is as enthusiastic, pleasant and accommodating as Michael, and that extends to his policy of periodically delivering to Manhattan addresses at no charge and providing a 10% discount on cases.

This Thursday, March 6, Michael will be coming into the city. Look at the website and see what you might like. Better yet, give him a call and ask what he might recommend.

Chocolate Shop: Mondel Chocolates

2008-03-03T14:31:00.001-05:00

2913 Broadway (bet. W. 113th and W. 114th Streets)
212-864-2111
http://www.mondelchocolates.com/

Pass by Mondel, and if the door is open, you’ll be treated to an irresistible whiff of chocolate. Some of the goodies sold here are actually made right in the back of this little shop, which has been in the same family since it opened in 1943. While most of the customers are students from Columbia University and residents of Morningside Heights, there are chocolate-loving New Yorkers who will travel uptown just to shop here. Around holidays, the line stretches out the door.

Our favorite time to visit is right before Easter, when the shelves are brimming with plush bunnies and all the traditional makings for an old-fashioned Easter basket. Don’t miss the bittersweet chocolate-covered coconut eggs and the small milk chocolate bunnies that are filled with a terrific caramel. If you’re shopping for a Passover gift, Mondel has a lovely selection of nuts and dried fruits that can be paired with their kosher chocolates.

Year-round favorites include dark chocolate-covered orange peels, champagne truffles, fudge, butter crunch, and “turtles”, which are nut, caramel and chocolate clusters. Stop by anytime, and you can pick up a few pieces of your favorites. Paula, the manager who has been there for 17 years, will put your selections in a little brown paper bag. And a treat from Mondel is more than affordable. During a quick stop in last week, three yummy treats set us back only $2.88.

Food Shopping in Paris

2008-02-28T18:01:00.006-05:00

We celebrated Bill’s birthday (a Valentine’s baby, but we did it on the 16th) with his family by hosting a dinner at our apartment on rue de Seine. We always love food shopping around our Left Bank neighborhood (in the 6th arrondissement), and beyond, so this—a celebration and visitors from New York--was a terrific excuse to indulge.

We started out on Saturday morning going to the Place Maubert outdoor market on Boulevard St. Germain in the 5th. Here we picked up seasonally fresh and beautiful watercress and endive for a salad (to be dressed with walnut oil from nearby LeBlanc on rue Jacob). Then some Ratte potatoes and haricot verts to be served with the main course. And we couldn’t leave without scooping up some meaty olives from the family that comes up every week from Provence. Unlike the New York greenmarkets in the dead of winter, the array of produce at the Parisian markets is much more varied and bright this time of year.

From there, we hopped on the metro to go to the 14th, to see our butcher, Hugo Desnoyer. And while he is always extremely busy running this shop and taking orders from many of the very best restaurants in Paris, “Butcher Hugo” is always happy to stop what he is doing and come out from behind the counter to greet and chat with the crazy Americans (us!). We left with a fabulous looking piece of beef to roast, something similar to, but not exactly like a shell steak here. We also took a small slab of absolutely delicious pork rillettes, which we knew would be nice to spread on some Mulot bread and eat with the provençal olives while sipping our champagne aperitif.

Now, over to the 7th, and to the holy grail of cheese, Barthélémy. A perfectly aged Époisses made in Burgundy from raw milk, and a dry goat from the Loire were carefully selected for the cheese course, and we added in a wedge of an outstanding Roquefort to go with the aforementioned salad.

Returning closer to home, we stopped in the Marche St. Germain, a covered market, to check in with one of neighborhood wine merchants. The owner of Bacchus et Ariane is always glad to make recommendations, and this time he led us to a lovely champagne and a fine premier cru Chablis, both good values from small productions. The main course red Burgundy, Clos du Tart, came up from Bill’s personal collection in the cave. Dessert, picked up at Gérard Mulot, was one of the shop's signature creations, the Amaryllis, which is like a giant macaroon filled with pastry cream and studded with raspberries around the sides. (The photo above is Mulot's Valentine's display.)

After all of this shopping, the preparation and cooking seemed minimal. And the end result was a meal that the entire family savored from beginning to end, acknowledging that the cross-Atlantic voyage wasn't so bad after all.

Returning Monday to a NY state of mind.

Back from Paris: Restaurants & The Exchange Rate

2008-02-27T15:54:00.005-05:00

Forgive this delay, but we are simultaneously recovering from jetlag and the aftermath of the dismal dollar. After our plane landed at CDG on Valentine’s Day, we headed straight to our apartment in the sixth arrondissement, dropped off our bags and went down the block to the local café. Two coffees and a hot chocolate set us back more than $20. From that point on, in order to enjoy ourselves, we simply refused to convert prices in our heads, although it would have been easy enough to multiply everything by 1.5!

We had a terrific lunch at L’Ami Louis on the following Sunday afternoon. We always call this place the Peter Luger’s of Paris—high prices, gruff service in a dark, masculine room. But the chicken, like Luger’s steak, can’t be beat. We’ve been here several times, and it always seems that the room is at least half filled with Americans. This time, we were the only ones.

Dinner the following night at Taillevent was incredible. Never has the food been better, and maitre d'hôtel, Jean-Marie Ancher has taken over the dining room with incredible aplomb. He is at once attentive, charming and humorous. If you’re traveling that way, keep in mind that they do have a 70-euro lunch, which helps ease the currency pain.

A few more Paris food highlights tomorrow before we return to our New York roots.

Going to Paris

2008-02-13T14:27:00.001-05:00

We're leaving in a few hours for Paris. If Noos, our French internet provider, is cooperating, we'll post from there. Otherwise, we'll see you when we return on February 25.

Wine Shop: Italian Wine Merchants

2008-02-12T07:32:00.000-05:00

108 E 16th Street (bet. Park Avenue and Irving Place)
212-473-2323
http://www.italianwinemerchant.com/

For some time now, we wanted to visit the Italian Wine Merchants. Two of the owners are famous restaurant people. Chef Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich own Del Posto (among numerous other places) where last month, we sampled two interesting Italian wines. Since they were being offered on the restaurant week menu, we knew they were reasonably priced. Then when the waiter told us we could buy them at IWM, we were practically on our way.

The store only stocks Italian wine and is spacious because with everything sold, there is only one bottle on display. One of the managers, Debbie, explained how all the wine is properly stored downstairs. After you make your selections they are sent up on a dumbwaiter while you pay. Another unique thing is that the shelves are arranged from lower to higher priced wines.

So right by the front door, was the Tuscan red we enjoyed called, Lo Mozza Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi 2005 ($16.50). It turns our Chef Mario, partner Joseph and his mother Chef Lidia Bastianich own Lo Mozza. The white was a Bastianich Tocai Friulano 2006 from the other Bastianich-owned winery in the Friuli region of Italy ($15.95).

The shop gives an 8% case discount and free shipping in Manhattan. On the website there is loads of information. This is another case of wine becoming a passion more than a business. Now on our Saturday trips to the Union Square Greenmarket, we will need to make a detour over to the IWM and see what is going on.

Manhattan Fruitier for Burdick Chocolates

2008-02-11T09:04:00.000-05:00

105 E. 29th Street (bet. Park and Lexington Avenues)
800-841-5718
http://www.manhattanfruitier.com/

Manhattan Fruitier is a little known retail source for terrific Burdick Chocolates (http://www.burdickchocolate.com/). More of a warehouse, this spot on E. 29th Street is in the business of assembling and delivering some of the best looking fruit baskets around. But they get frequent shipments of Burdick Chocolate (based in New Hampshire). You can walk in during business hours on Monday through Friday, ask at the front desk, and buy the assorted chocolates that come in handsome wooden boxes in a few different sizes. An ideal gift, perhaps for that special man in your life on the 14th?

Six Stops on the Way to Valentine’s Day

2008-02-08T10:48:00.000-05:00

With Cupid just around the corner, we think you can’t go wrong with a gift from any of these NY chocolate shops.

The packaging is the simplest at Kee’s Chocolates in Soho, but perhaps the flavors are the most complex. A sure-fire hit for your serious chocolate lover. Do go to La Maison du Chocolat in Rockefeller Center or on the UES if your sweetheart is a Francophile. These exquisite chocolates are flown in from Paris and epitomize the best of sophisticated French chocolate making.

Downtown in the Financial District, Christopher Norman has been busy not only making the chocolates but creating special packaging for their Valentine’s treats. This year, the signature ballotins are wrapped in pretty pink and silver paper with a jewelry-like garland on top. If you can’t get down there, we’ve seen them at Dean & DeLuca. A gift from Jacques Torres Chocolates, with locations in Brooklyn, Soho and the UWS, is always a treat. For something different, they have packaged their hot fudge sauce as “Love Tonic” and caramel sauce as “Body Butter” in jars with hearts on the labels. Well, just use your imagination…

Vosges Haut Chocolate, with locations in Soho and the UES, is selling a “love tower,” two stacked purple heart boxes, the larger one with exotic truffles and the smaller with yummy caramel toffee. MarieBelle New York, also with two shops, in the same neighborhoods, sells wonderful chocolates in beautiful packaging year round, but for Valentine’s Day, they have special edition ganaches in wild berry and champagne flavors. Try to visit downtown because the Soho shop may be the most romantic chocolate store in town.

http://www.keeschocolates.com/
www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/en/address/shops
http://www.christophernormanchocolates.com/
http://www.mrchocolate.com/ (Jacques Torres)
http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/
http://www.mariebelle.com/

Restaurant: Phoenix Garden

2008-02-07T10:34:00.000-05:00

242 E. 40th St (bet. Second and Third Avenues)

212-983-6666
No Website

Today is the start of the Chinese New Year, the Year of the Rat. A great way to celebrate is to have lunch at Phoenix Garden. An ideal spot for anyone working in Midtown, it’s the kind of lunch place that moves you in and out quickly and does not take credit cards. It hardly matters because they offer a special two-course lunch menu for around $10.

All the special lunch portions we tried are not big (with the exception of the duck) and the food tastes very fresh. In the 2008 Zagat Guide, they were given a 24 food rating, which is near the top for NY Chinese restaurants. The Cantonese-style cooking is a bit reminiscent to the quality you would find at a good place in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

Beer and wine are not on the menu, so you can BYOB.

Food Shops: Chinatown

2008-02-06T08:41:00.000-05:00

In anticipation of the Chinese New Year that begins tomorrow, we’re highlighting three of our favorite food shops in Chinatown.

Kam Man Food Products
200 Canal Street (bet. Mott and Mulberry Streets)
212 571-0300
This is one of the giants in the neighborhood. The first floor has a wide array of ingredients for Chinese cooking and the lower level has an enormous selection of serving dishes and cookware.

Tongin Mart (formerly Chinese American Trading Co.)
91 Mulberry Street (bet. Canal and Bayard Streets)
212-962-6622
This shop is always busy. They have a great selection of noodles, both fresh and dried. Their shelves are well stocked with an extensive selection of condiments and packaged ingredients.

Asia Food Market
71½ Mulberry Street (bet. Canal and Bayard Streets)
212-962-2020
We first found out about this shop from chef Gray Kunz back in 1993 and wrote about it in our newsletter, The NY Food Letter. We’ve returned over and over again throughout the years, and it’s as good as ever. Besides Chinese ingredients, this store carries Filipino, Thai, and Vietnamese and Indonesian food products. Outside they sell fresh vegetables and fruits.

Wine Shop: 67 Wine & Spirits

2008-02-05T11:29:00.000-05:00

179 Columbus Avenue (at W. 68th Street)
212-724-6767
http://www.67wine.com/

Back when the Democrats were last in the White House, we lived on the West Side and 67 Wine & Spirits was our neighborhood wine shop. We remember the place before they expanded and moved the red wine to the second floor and kept the whites on the main floor with the spirits.

It is a big store and not much has changed, but they do have a lot of inventory and you need time to navigate through it. Take a look at the cases in the center of the main floor which are the promotional wines. It is best to shop earlier in the day when it is less crowded and the cashier people are not likely to be frazzled. We would try and stay away on the eve of big holidays.

On their website they have a category called wine toys. In their upstairs window there is a nice collection of flasks in all shapes and sizes. The flask with the two spouts would make a nice anniversary gift. The website also lists the sales people by wine specialty, and you can e-mail them with questions and your feedback. We e-mailed a question on a specific grand cru Burundy and got an answer back in a couple of hours which was impressive.

Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland

2008-02-04T06:34:00.000-05:00

620 Fifth Avenue (at Rockefeller Center)
212-246-4416
25 East 61st Street (bet. Madison and Park Avenues)
212-751-8482
http://www.teuscher-newyork.com

One could claim that Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland was the birthplace of the ultra fancy truffle in New York. The Madison Avenue shop opened its doors in 1976, and two years later, a branch in Rockefeller Center appeared on the scene.

Teuscher carries at least a dozen varieties of truffles, but their famous champagne truffle outsells by far any one of the others. Ingredients include fresh cream and butter, and yes, real champagne is used in the filing of the house specialty—although the alcohol content is less than ½ percent. They are on the sweet side with a slight kick, and after all these years, they are justifiably still much loved by many NY chocolate aficionados.

Also good are orange slices dipped in dark chocolate and a new addition—chocolate-covered macadamia nuts. Freshness is key to enjoying these chocolates, and the shops receive shipments from Zürich once a week and more often during the December holiday season. If you buy them loose, and by all means, feel free to stop in and buy just one truffle, they are $75 per pound. The champagne truffles are also sold in simple gift boxes in various sizes, with an 8 oz. package (16 truffles) costing $39. Unique to Teuscher are the children’s “fantasy” figures from Switzerland –brightly colored animals and characters that come with tiny boxes attached to hold truffles.

The stores’ decorations, also made in Switzerland, are a big part of the Teuscher shopping experience. Colorful silk and paper flowers, which change with the seasons, are draped everywhere, giving these two little shops a very festive appearances. Buying chocolate at Teuscher is like visiting Santa’s chocolate workshop all year-round.

Classic Super Bowl Snacks

2008-02-01T08:08:00.000-05:00

Snacks for Super Bowl Sunday are big business. This week, the supermarkets are filled with all kinds of promotions. We have two old favorites that we like to make. For the kickoff we have ready home made onion dip to go along with a bowl of potato chips. Then by halftime we bake up some “pigs in a blanket.”

The old-fashioned box of Lipton Onion Soup mix is now called, Lipton Recipe Secrets Onion Recipe Soup & Dip Mix. This was because the dip became more popular than the soup. We bought it at the Food Emporium http://www.thefoodemporium.com/ for $1.99. Mix it with a 16 oz. container of sour cream and you are done. Make sure the chips are thick cut or have ridges because regular potato chips can break in the dip

For the “pigs in a blanket” buy the Hebrew National Cocktail Beef Franks ($4.99) http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/getBrand.do?page=hebrew_national
and they get individually wrapped in Pillsbury Crescent Original Dinner Rolls ($3.19) dough. http://www.pillsbury.com/AALL/default.aspx On the Pillsbury website they have the recipe and show how to cut and wrap the franks.

Keep a good eye on them while in the oven, and when they come out all you need is some Guldens Spicy Brown Mustard. http://www.conagrafoods.com/consumer/brands/getBrand.do?page=guldens And this year it is Go Giants!

Restaurant Week: Café Boulud

2008-01-31T07:35:00.000-05:00

20 E 76th Street (bet. Madison and Fifth Avenues)
212-772-2600
http://www.danielnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Daniel Boulud. We hadn’t been to Café Boulud since the new chef, Gavin Kaysen, took over the kitchen, and thought Restaurant Week was the perfect time to try out the new menu.

At our lunch on Tuesday, the promotional lunch ($24.07) offered three choices for each course. There were two selections of wine offered at $24.07, a great deal. We selected the red, a South African merlot from DeGrendel, which was excellent with the duck terrine entrée and the lamb main course.

The dining room was packed and all abuzz. At one of the power tables by the windows, director Mike Nichols was kibitzing with a Tobey Maguire look-a-like. Who knows maybe it was Spider-Man? At our table against the wall both of us were looking out and it was like taking in a NY restaurant show. We are convinced that portions are smaller during Restaurant Week, but the total meal was extremely satisfying. Gavin Kaysen made a very impressive debut to us, and if history repeats itself he will be running his own NY establishment some day

Chocolate Shop: Debauve & Gallais

2008-01-30T08:10:00.000-05:00

20 East 69th Street (bet. Fifth and Madison Avenues)
212-734-8880
http://www.debauveandgallais.com/

After yesterday’s Restaurant Week lunch at Café Boulud (more on that tomorrow), we took a stroll down Madison Avenue to revisit Debauve & Gallais.

Debauve & Gallais landed in NY by way of Paris in the fall of 2004. It seems that their goal was to proudly establish themselves as the most expensive chocolatier in this city. At the current price of $140/lb., we think they’ve accomplished that! This tiny shop, just off Madison Avenue on E. 69th Street, seems more like a jewelry boutique than a chocolate business. On display are all sorts of signature Debauve & Gallais packaging: leather boxes made to look like ancient books, fancy tins, and their signature blue, gray and gold boxes that were once the exclusive provenance of French royalty. With a little effort, you will spot the chocolate.

Debauve & Gallais dates back to 1800 when Suplice Debauve, opened a pharmacy in Paris that dispensed chocolates. This original shop is still in operation on Paris’ left bank at 30, rue des Saint-Pères, and makes a rewarding stop if you are ever touring the neighborhood.

Oh, the chocolates. Yes, they are good. Quite good. They are classic, French (mostly) dark chocolates, flown in weekly from Paris. The all-chocolate Palet Debauve & Gallais with its gold leaf seal is superb. We also liked ones filled with ground hazelnuts, caramel, and almond nougat with pistachio. The least expensive assortment we could find is $143 for a box of 35, which is roughly one pound. Gift boxes are literally hundreds of dollars, much of the price going towards the packaging. You can also buy individual pieces (minimum of four) at the aforementioned $140/lb. So, go ahead. Hand over a $20 bill, and treat yourself to a few fine French chocolates. You might even get some change back. Perhaps a small price to pay to feel like a king or queen of France for a few minutes.

Wine Shop: Moore Brothers Wine Company

2008-01-29T07:09:00.000-05:00

33 E 20th Street (bet. Broadway and Park Avenue South)
866-986-6673
www.moorebrothers.com

When we walked into the Moore Brothers wine store, you can’t help but notice Moore warm-up jackets hanging up and available because the entire store is chilled for proper wine storage. Another interesting feature was the children’s play area with books and a PC sectioned off so the adults can browse and taste without interruption.

But, the wine itself sold at Moore Brothers is the most unique characteristic of the store. They do not stock popular labels. Every bottle is personally selected by the owners, who over the years have developed a rapport with a number of small wine producers. Since we like to think of ourselves as experienced wine consumers, we were shocked that we couldn’t find a single bottle we remembered drinking in the entire store. Determined, we finally recognized the Domaine Daniel Rion label. We believe we had it at Bernard Loiseau-La Cote d’Or restaurant in Burgundy.

There is currently a 10% discount on every bottle in the store until Feb. 4th, so we picked up two bottles that were reasonably priced before the discount. One was a Chotes-du-Rhone “la Friande” Domaine Jaume 2006, ($11); the other, a red from Coteaux du Languedoc “Prestige” Chateau Des Hospitaliers 2005, ($12.50). We also selected a Brut Rose Delavenne et Fils NV Champagne ($50) that we will open on Valentine’s Day. There was also an interesting selection of wines from Germany and Italy--the kind of bottles you only see when you visit these countries.

At checkout, Jill the amiable sales person, printed out the tasting notes for all three. She also registered us, and now on their website after we log in, the system keeps tabs on everything purchased. Moore Brothers is a serious wine buying place and a fine addition to the NY wine scene.

Restaurant Week: Eleven Madison Park

2008-01-28T10:55:00.000-05:00

11 Madison Avenue (at 24th Street)
212-889-0905
http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

On Friday, we felt like we hit the Restaurant Week jackpot with our $24.08 lunch at Eleven Madison Park.

The promotional menu offered four choices in both the appetizer and entrée offerings and three different desserts. Everything single thing we ordered was terrific. Impeccable ingredients, perfectly cooked. While the food looked deceptively simple, the flavors and textures made each dish sing. We bet some people quibbled about the small portion size—is this a RW occurrence or is this the chef’s idea of how we should be eating? It didn’t bother us, but fair warning.

Service was flawless from the moment we walked through the door. We know that Danny Meyer, the NY king of hospitality, strives to delivers nothing less, but still there seemed to be something extra special at work here. At once attentive and relaxed, with a sincere desire to make every diner enjoy their meal. And looking around the room, it seemed that everyone was having a great time.

Event: The Science of Chocolate

2008-01-25T06:29:00.000-05:00

New York Academy of Sciences
7 World Trade Center,
(250 Greenwich St. at Barclay St., 40th Floor)
Wednesday, February 13
6:00-7:30 pm
http://www.nyas.org/

Calling all brainy chocolate lovers! The New York Academy of Sciences is hosting, “The Science of Chocolate,” a lecture and tasting on February 13 at 6 pm. Admission is $10 for members and $25 for nonmembers ($15 for students). Registration is required, which can be completed by following this link:
http://www.nyas.org/events/eventDetail.asp?eventID=10322&date=2/13/2008%206:00:00%20PM

Restaurant Week: Lunch at Anthos

2008-01-24T09:00:00.000-05:00

36 West 52nd Street (bet. 5th and 6th Avenues)
212-582-6900
http://www.anthosnyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

NY Restaurant Week is always a terrific incentive for us to try new pricey places or revisit old favorites, especially if a new chef has made a mark. And if we can catch up with some old friends, it’s better yet.

This year, we kicked off our winter restaurant week challenge on Tuesday with a $24.07 lunch at Anthos, an “haute” Greek that landed in Midtown last year. There were a number of compelling reasons that we choose Anthos: one star in the 2008 Michelin Guide, a 25 food rating in the 2008 Zagat, and one of the top 10 newcomers in 2007 as reported by Frank Bruni in The New York Times.

So while our hopes were high, the results were disappointing. As what unfortunately can happen with these restaurant week promotions, you are left feeling that you ate at a different restaurant than the one you’ve heard so much about.

Overall, the food was mostly good, and the braised lamb shank was especially tender and flavorful, yet there really was nothing memorable about any of our choices. And the one rather significant complaint was a main course of grilled arctic char came out of the kitchen bordering between room temperature and lukewarm. On the plus side were some really nice and unusual Greek wines by the glass ($9) that made for a pleasant complement to the promotional menu. The wait staff were all top-notch professionals, although we did feel a bit rushed—we were done with three courses and the check was on the table in under an hour.

Anthos regularly offers a $28 three-course lunch menu and perhaps these selections may be a better barometer of what the kitchen is capable of offering. But we guess that the best foods are had by ordering off the regular menu, and there are no bargains here. And with our disappointing start, we doubt we’ll head back any time soon to try our luck.

Chocolate Shop: Charbonnel et Walker at Saks

2008-01-23T08:56:00.000-05:00

611 Fifth Avenue (bet. 49th and 50th Streets)
8th Floor
866-478-7586
www.charbonnel.co.uk
www.saksfifthavenue.com

The British landed at Saks in the fall of 2005 and went directly up to the 8th Floor. Charbonnel et Walker, established in 1875 and chocolatier to Her Majesty, now have a shop and café at this classic Midtown department store. The chocolate counter, where you can put together a personalized gift box or buy just one chocolate ($2.25 each), has dozens of classic bonbons and truffles to choose from.

The biggest seller is the “pink champagne” truffle, and it just may be the prettiest truffle that we’ve seen. Flavored with marc de champagne, the chocolate center is enrobed in white chocolate, flavored with a hint of strawberry, and lightly dusted with sugar. Other unique selections include the violet- and English rose-flavored creams covered in dark chocolate. And if you’re in a hurry, there is a vast selection of prepackaged boxes.

Keep in mind that Charbonnel et Walker makes traditional, sweet English chocolates. Perfect for your favorite Anglophile or doting aunt, we don’t recommend them for someone who craves an intense bitter chocolate experience. Service is extremely helpful, and during our last visit we were offered several samples.

The Chocolate Café
Alongside the shop is a small café where weary shoppers can recharge. Cups of hot chocolate ($5.25) can be paired with classic English sweets such as scones and puddings. Desserts are made in the kitchen directly behind the chocolate counter and are displayed on a moving conveyer belt that circles the café counter.

Wine Shop: Garnet Wines & Liquors

2008-01-22T15:41:00.000-05:00

929 Lexington Avenue (bet. East 68th & 69th Streets)
212-772-3211
http://www.garnetwine.com/

It is fair to say Garnet Wines & Liquors is well known in NY for their large selection of wines at discount prices. We have been receiving their monthly newsletter, The Garnet Good News, for more than fifteen years, and have done lot of our shopping from the advertised specials. We remember when we would phone in our orders before wine shop websites were ever in vogue.

While in Paris last summer, we had a conversation with Juan Sanchez, the Miami native who owns La Derniere Goutte (the last drop), (www.pattylurie.com/html/goutte.html)
a local wine store not far from our apartment in the 6th arrondissement. Juan loves visiting NY, and going around to the different wine shops. He mentioned Garnet as one that impressed him. While at others he remarked, “A lot of the clerks don’t know anything.”

One of the reasons Garnet is so good is JR. Over all the years JR has never given us a bad recommendation on French reds. All you have to do is tell him your price range and in an instant he is off through the store grabbing bottles. It is not often you find him on the floor because of other responsibilities, but go in the back and see if he is there. You will not be disappointed.

Garnet has a 10% case discount and free delivery is offered based on the price of the case and your zip code. The details are on their website. During the holiday season this is one NY store that fills up fast, so we always try and get there when they open at 9:00 a.m. or Sundays at noon.

Free Chocolate Class at Williams-Sonoma

2008-01-18T09:25:00.000-05:00

10 Columbus Circle (60th Street @ Broadway)
(212) 823-9750
www.williams-sonoma.com

The Williams-Sonoma shop at Columbus Circle is offering a class in chocolate on Sunday, February 3, from 10-11:30 AM.

On a recent visit to the Time Warner Center, we stopped in at this flagship shop, and saw a poster describing this and a few other classes. This free class promises to “teach basic cooking techniques and share ideas for simple yet decadent chocolate desserts. Learn what tempering is, evaluate quality of ingredients in your chocolate and how to make basic ganache.”
You can sign up by speaking with a sales associate at the store or by calling the number above.

Restaurant: Amy Ruth's

2008-01-17T13:40:00.000-05:00

113 West 116th Street (bet. Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd & Malcom X Blvd)
212-280-8779
http://www.amyruthsharlem.com/
http://www.zagat.com/

We traveled up to Harlem last Saturday and had lunch at Amy Ruth’s. According to the latest Zagat survey they are rated the # 1 Southern food establishment. The friendly manager, Patrick told us the home-style southern cooking originated in South Carolina. We frequently visit SC, and quite frankly, the food was better at Amy Ruth’s than any meal we have eaten down there.

Amy Ruth’s is a rather small place, but expansion plans are in the works. The crowd included plenty of families from the neighborhood. On Friday and Saturday it is open around the clock, and it gets extremely crowded on Sunday mornings after the church services.

The waitress was congenial but the service was somewhat slow. They start everyone with a delicious warm cornbread. Then we ate fried chicken, waffles and barbeque spare ribs. The portions were big yet inexpensive. We thought the spare ribs were excellent and had plenty of meat falling off the bone. You can choose from numerous side dishes and we especially liked the mashed potatoes, collard greens, and yams.

Our meal ended with pineapple-coconut cake and the red velvet cake. The entire lunch cost $46.44. Next time we will skip the dessert and save the calories. Then again, we did have our eye on the peach cobbler.

Food Shop: Fresh Direct for Artisanal Cheeses

2008-01-16T09:42:00.000-05:00

www.freshdirect.com

One more recommendation about the fabulous Artisanal cheese that we wrote about last week: you can get a limited selection from Fresh Direct. Shortly after this online grocer started selling Artisanal cheeses, we tried a few of the French selections. We were stunned at how good they were, arriving in pristine condition and perfectly ripe. The Epoisses from Burgundy was running off the plate. Subsequent orders with other varieties confirmed that this was no fluke. After our last order a few months ago, we agreed that what we had right here in New York rivaled the cheeses that we buy at Barthélémy, considered by many to be the best cheese shop in Paris.

We were reminded about Artisanal from Fresh Direct after going to a dinner party at Drs. Pedro & Vivian on Saturday evening. Sometime before the music went louder and the dancing started, the tray of mouth watering cheeses came out. That’s when our lovely hostess (and cardiologist!) admitted that she ordered them from Fresh Direct.

Wine Shop: Zachy’s Wine Auction @ Restaurant Daniel

2008-01-15T14:15:00.000-05:00

http://www.zachys.com/
http://www.danielnyc.com/

We decided to try out the Zachy’s winter wine auction last Friday at restaurant Daniel on East 65th Street. It was our first time going, and we didn’t know exactly what to expect.

The day started at 8:30 AM with a complimentary breakfast supplied by Chef Daniel Boulud’s kitchen. While enjoying the meal, Zachy’s president, Jeff Zacharia, greeted us warmly, and told us, “It moves along quickly, and if they don’t see your paddle just holler out, BID.”

Prior to getting underway, the auctioneer, Fritz Hatton, explained that a19% buyer’s premium and the appropriate state sales tax is added to every winning bid. We found that the catalog is essential in order to follow the action. We printed it out in advance from the website, but it could have been purchased on site for $30. Also helpful, there was a wireless internet connection in the room.

There were about 60 of us sitting around at tables, and about a half dozen staffers from Zachy’s taking phone bids. A total of 1,307 lots were available that day, grouped by consignor and then wine region. At one point midmorning, Fritz announced that six bottles were being opened for tasting. We went over and tried a 2002 Burgundy form Echezaux and a 1966 Chateau Ausone. The ultimate winning bids for these wines were $95 and $119, respectively, which included the 19 % buyer’s premium but not the sales tax.

We went to this event seriously interested in a six-bottle lot of Clos de Tart, a grand cru we buy when we travel to Burgundy. But, there were four bidders and it was gone in an instant. The next thing we knew, it was noon, Fritz was up to lot 412, and we had seen enough for our first auction. It was a fascinating and enjoyable NY wine experience. We will return to the next Zachy’s wine auction in the spring.

Chocolate Shop: Dylan's Candy Bar

2008-01-14T08:34:00.000-05:00

1011 Third Avenue (at 60th Street)
646-735-0078
http://www.dylanscandybar.com/

In a league of its own, Dylan’s Candy Bar defies easy categorization, offering old fashioned treats in a thoroughly modern setting. It’s a kaleidoscope of a candy shop, brightly colored, packed with what seems like thousands of choices, wildly popular and always crowded. At first glance, it seems that the shop’s charms are aimed at preteen girls, but after wandering around, you begin to admit that it actually appeals to kids of all ages.

One wall on the main level is devoted to a serve-yourself chocolate section with dozens of varieties of old-fashioned treats covered in chocolate—huge malted balls, marshmallow bars, jelly rings and oddly addictive Rice Krispies, just to name a few. Scoop out want you want, and at $10.99 per pound you don’t need to worry about breaking the bank. They are very good and fresh, and we think the chocolate is the highlight of the shop. You’ll also find 14 varieties of two-ounce Belgian chocolate bars ($2.75 each) and downstairs there’s a terrific variety of classic chocolate candy bars that have been popular for decades. For you “older” kids, seeing them just may bring back a childhood chocolate memory and put a smile on your face.

Remembering Jean-Claude Vrinat

2008-01-11T14:42:00.000-05:00

An old food friend of ours passed away this week. His name was Jean-Claude Vrinat, the owner of Taillevent, the famous grand restaurant in Paris. To have dined in his company was to be treated like royalty. He had a presence about him and a special gift that went beyond hospitality. Monsieur Vrinat was a legend.

At every visit, we always felt his warmth. It was like he placed us on his VIP list and considered us his friends. But everyone got this same special treatment from him. Even when it was years between visits, he always remembered us and asked about NY.

Over the years, we ate at Taillevent as often as our schedule and budget allowed. It may have been to celebrate a birthday or an anniversary. We went one Christmas Eve, just the two of us, and another time with a French chef friend who came in from the countryside with shopping bags filled with homemade confiture and bounty from his garden. Then one time we invited a husband and wife, both accomplished physicians, who love to eat fabulous food and know great wines.

A few times (in stronger dollar days) we treated ourselves to lunch at Taillevent right before going to the airport before the long flight home, and everything became more tolerable. It was at Taillevent that we ordered our first bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild. There was also a lunch where we selected an expensive Château-Grillet from the Côtes du Rhône that was corked. Monsieur Vrinat came by, took a sniff, and nodded like the expert that he was. He took extraordinary pride in his wine list. There was no one better.

This past summer after his restaurant was undeservingly demoted from three stars to two by Michelin, our meal was never better. When we told him this, he simply smiled and thanked us. We will miss him a lot the next time we dine at Taillevent.

Restaurant: Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2008-01-10T07:23:00.000-05:00

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-725-8585
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

Last Thursday, looking for a lunch spot to warm us up on that bitterly cold January day, we headed down to Murray Hill to Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro.

The place was bustling. Appealing decorated in the style of a deco period Paris brasserie, the room was sparkling and well maintained. The menu, of course, was brimming with choices using cheese in a star or supporting role. And there are 160 wines available by the glass (no bargains here), and an large section of the menu is devoted to flights of cheese with optional paired wines. We wondered why though, with all of those wines, there was no sommelier around to help with recommendations.

We naturally opted for two dishes that were heavy on the fromage. The macaroni and cheese ($18.50) was creamy and delicious—made with three cheeses (Emmenthal, Beaufort and Parmesan), bits of prosciutto di Parma and a light but crunchy layer of breadcrumbs on top. The addictive grilled cheese sandwich ($14.50), made with English cheddar was subtly enhanced by a bit of smoked bacon and ultra thin wedges of apple. Both dishes came with excellent mesclun salads (a larger one with the mac & cheese), and a scattering of homemade potato chips also jazzed up the sandwich platter. Our shared dessert, a chocolate tart with carmelized pear and salted caramel ice cream ($10.50) was a winner. Service was perfunctory and somewhat overly efficient.

We’d happily go back to Artisanal and maybe next time we’ll tear ourselves away from the cheese selections and try one of their classic bistro dishes.

Food Shop: NY’s Best Cheeses--The Cheese Counter at Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro

2008-01-09T08:36:00.000-05:00

2 Park Avenue (at 32nd Street)
212-212-532-4033
877-797-1200 (Cheese Center Orders)
http://www.artisanalcheese.com/ (web orders)
http://www.artisanalbistro.com/ (bistro)

We think that the Artisanal Premium Cheese brand and operation has, hands down, become NY’s best source for high quality cheese. By building a state-of-the art facility on W. 37th Street, they have been able to properly mature, age and store cheese like no one else in NY. There is a cheese school there too, but no retail shop. Rather, orders are taken over the phone or on their website. But you can shop in person at their one retail establishment, not so much a shop, but a counter nestled in the back of Artisanal Fromagerie & Bistro in Murray Hill.

We ate lunch last week at this restaurant (more on that tomorrow), and stopped by the attractive cheese counter to buy a few cheeses to take home. Here we met fromager Sean Faeth, who was happy to make recommendations and describe the cheeses in detail. A terrific, if expensive, bet are the raw Swiss cheeses (some with prices approaching $40/lb.), but you should feel confident putting yourself in Seth’s hands and asking for his recommendations based on your preferences and budget. He told us that you can walk in to buy cheese at any time the restaurant is open, and that he is generally on duty during the day, Mondays through Thursdays.

Wine Shop: Trader Joe’s

2008-01-08T07:04:00.000-05:00

138 East 14th Street (bet. Irving Place and 3rd Avenue)
212-529-6326
http://www.traderjoes.com/

If you are the type that looks for a bargain when you shop, then Trader Joe’s is the place for you. Do not come here with a particular label in mind because chances are you will not find it. But if you have time to browse and you know your wine prices, give Trader Joe’s a try. Your shopping cart is likely to fill up quickly with some good deals.

Last month we paid a visit to Trader Joe’s and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne was $36.99. Right around the corner at Union Square Wines the same bottle cost $5 more. In their limited style, Trader Joe’s only had the Moët and VC lines on their shelves, while Union Square had plenty of French champagne choices.

Yesterday, we saw two favorites from France. One was a red Burgundy from Volnay for only $19.99, and a Pierre Sparr Reisling for just under $10. You would be hard pressed to find better prices anywhere in NY. This brings us to Trader Joe’s famous “Two Buck Chuck” line. According to Adam who works the floor, Trader Joe’s has an exclusive on the leftovers from the giant Charles Shaw winery in California. At $2.99 a bottle, Adam steered us to both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon as great buys. Depending on inventory, there are usually other grape varietals available as well.

One warning is to ask first about the delivery charges. It all depends on where you live. For us it was $19.95 a case, so we happily carried six bottles in two neatly packed brown bags home.

Chocolate Shop: January "Whites" Sale at Leonidas (Web Only)

2008-01-07T06:59:00.000-05:00

485 Madison Avenue (bet. 51st and 52nd Streets), 212-980-2608
3 Hanover Square (bet. William and Hanover Streets), 212-422-9600
http://www.leonidas-chocolate.com/
Café locations: www.manoncafe.com/newyork.htm

Last Thursday, we stopped in at Leonidas, a favorite chocolate shop on Madison Avenue, and we found out about a web-only sale to help you along with your New Year’s resolutions to spend less money and eat more chocolate. For a limited time, you can get a one-pound mixed box of Manon Blanc and Manon Café chocolates for the astonishing low price of only $20 (regularly $32, with a price increase expected very soon). Details can be found at this link: www.leonidas-chocolate.com/manon-page.html

Leonidas is a real find the New York chocolate lover. You’ll be rewarded here with some of the most attentive service of any chocolate shop in the city, and the excellent, always fresh Belgian chocolates are a terrific buy.

The small, sparkling shop in Midtown has recently been updated with a new look, and it’s better than ever. The store is managed by Jacques Bergier, a tireless French-born chocolate maker’s son, who is absolutely committed to pleasing his customers, many of whom are regulars. The two biggest sellers are both made with a lightly flavored coffee buttercream: the Manon Café with a hazelnut on top and enrobed in milk chocolate, and the Manon Blanc, which is covered in white chocolate. Most of the fillings are made with traditional ingredients such as fruits and nuts, but occasionally more unusual flavors like chili make an appearance at the shop. Also terrific are the orangettes, dark chocolate covered orange peels and a newer addition, the citronettes, dark chocolate covered lemon peels. Both are addictive.

Leonidas packaging is suitably attractive for gift giving, but if you are so inclined you can spend a few extra dollars and get a more elaborate presentation. But you don’t need to go and buy a whole box though, since the staff happily accommodates customers who pop in for a piece or two for a boost at any time of the day.

In recent years, trends and economics have made the addition of three financial district cafés/shops a sound business venture for Bergier, who says, “In New York now, you can’t live on chocolate alone.” So for those lucky to be downtown, you can have a complimentary piece of Leonidas with your Illy coffee! The cafés also sell a good selection of individual chocolates and gift boxes, with the Hanover Square location offering the most extensive selection.

Merry Christmas

2007-12-25T21:47:00.001-05:00

And have a Happy New Year!
We will see you back here in 2008.

Food Shop: Piemonte Ravioli

2007-12-21T08:12:00.000-05:00

190 Grand Street
212-226-0475
http://www.piemonteravioli.com

During the holiday season we always make a big tray of lasagna. It is a great meal for a crowd, and you can prepare it the day before your party. The flavors always seem to be better after resting in the refrigerator overnight. It is then slowly reheated in the oven for about an hour before the guests arrive.

Our choice is to make a béchamel sauce and layer it between the pasta noodles rather than using mozzarella and ricotta cheese. We learned this from John Clancy’s Favorite Recipes - A Personal Cookbook, where this recipe originated. The red meat sauce is prepared with two large cans of San Marzano tomatoes, and a combined mixture of about two pounds of beef, pork and veal.

The most important component to us is using fresh lasagna noodles. We always buy the green spinach variety at Piemonte in Little Italy. They cost $3.25 for a 1 lb. package. The wide green pasta is very festive looking against the red meat sauce. Santa would be delighted if this year you left him a wedge of spinach lasagna on Christmas Eve.

Restaurant: The Four Seasons

2007-12-20T06:08:00.000-05:00

99 East 52nd Street
212-754-9494
http://www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com
www.opentable.com

When it is time for a special occasion dinner you cannot go wrong with The Four Seasons restaurant. This is where high powered New Yorkers and industry heads have eaten since 1959. Even the wine list has photographs of socialite Brooke Astor, architect Philip Johnson and President Kennedy mixed in with the Bordeaux offerings. At our dinner last night, to nobody’s surprise seated at the next table was one of the newly crowned kings in financial services.

Our reservation was booked on open table.com, and a nice feature is you can specify what you’re celebrating or special requests for the maitre d’. We asked for the pool room as we did more than ten years ago when we last ate here. Nothing has changed. A wedding reception was going on over in the grill room.

We were graciously escorted to a large corner table looking out to this grand room. A generous bread basket started us off. After the toast with a large glass of champagne ($24) and a delicious rendition of a sidecar ($16), our first courses arrived. Two langoustines ($32) atop a sea urchin risotto, and the other was a couple of in-season Florida Stone Crabs ($38) coleslaw and a horseradish sauce. We both got the Chateaubriand ($110 for two) with a béarnaise sauce and string beans. The classic table side service is a nice show, but can be risky because our beef was kept on the flame a minute too long. We ordered an extra side dish called a salsify gratinee ($9.50) that was delicious.

The birthday surprise was a mound of white cotton candy that looked like a wig worn by Marie Antoinette with a single lit candle on top. Underneath was a scoop of strawberry ice cream. They packed up the cotton candy in a glossy Four Seasons shopping bag that we will proudly reuse on another day.

Food Shop: Di Palo Fine Foods

2007-12-19T17:36:00.000-05:00

200 Grand Street (at Mott Street)
212-226-1033
No website

How would you describe the top food shop in NY and what makes it so great? We think the place is Di Palo’s, which was originally a latteria that made mozzarella and ricotta cheese. Today they carry all sorts of Italian food products. When you visit Di Palo’s you will find it to be a unique NY shopping experience. Over the years here are just some things we have personally observed during our Di Palo excursions:

The store is always crowded and you need to take a number and wait your turn.

Sometimes newcomers don’t know this and despite the crowd they know when you are next.

They specialize in cheese from Italy and import the best products they can find.

It is a family run business passed on from one generation to the next.

People come from near and far to shop there—even the NYC guidebooks list it.

Nobody gets special treatment, not even famous NY chefs.

The typical customer will purchase an enormous amount of products.

Samples are always given out and usually shared with anyone in the general vicinity.

Even though you wait a long time it is okay, in fact you are apt to make new friends.

The owners, Lou, Sal and Marie and their Mother (who’s in on Saturdays) are extremely likeable people.

We are never without a chunk of Di Palo’s Parmigiano Reggiano in our refrigerator.

Wine Shop: Union Square Wines

2007-12-18T15:56:00.000-05:00

140 Fourth Avenue at 13th street
212-675-8100
http://www.unionsquarewines.com/

Printed on the window shade of the Union Square Wines & Spirits store is the USQ logo in big red letters. This is appropriate because we find a good portion of their red wine inventory to big, powerful and robust. And there always seems to be a large number of boxes stacked up by the exit door ready to be delivered. We look at USQ as one of the new breed of stores marketing wine and spirits in NYC.

The store is easy to navigate. Once you go inside just to the right is a huge Viking double refrigerator filled with sake. On their website, sake has a link with a drop down list. This is a product that is not so prominent in most wine shops around town.

USQ also has a large temperature controlled room for their high end wines. On the countertop in the center of the room is something called an enomatic wine serving system.(http://www.enomatic.it/). USQ has three of them located throughout the store with a selection of wine bottles attached for tastings.

The way it works is after they mail you an enomatic card, for every dollar you spend at USQ, you get five points credited to your account. Then, when you want to sample one of these bottles, you give them your enomatic card and they deduct the points from your account. The better the bottle, the more points they will deduct. It is a novel idea and we don’t know any other shops in NY that offer this type of tasting.

Once you are registered as a USQ customer, you can expect to receive occasional postcards in the mail alerting you to sales, and weekly e-mails about an upcoming tasting or special event. The store runs many of them, and the space works well for these programs. We always review the e-mails because you never know when a blockbuster 30% case discount is going into effect. It’s at those times that we most like to make a pilgrimage to USQ.

Hot Chocolate Stop at Shake Shack

2007-12-17T14:53:00.000-05:00

Southeast Corner at Madison Square Park
(Enter at Madison Avenue and E. 23rd Street)
212-889-6600
http://www.shakeshack.com/

On Friday, we ate lunch at the Shake Shack. Hearing this food stand in Madison Square Park was going to stay open for the winter (with a closing around Christmas week), we decided to see how outdoor eating would hold up on a sunny but chilly December day. The usually long lunchtime line was mercifully short and we thoroughly enjoyed our cheeseburger, Wisconsin Bratwurst and fries. But we ate fast because in spite of the strong sun, it really was too chilly for outdoor dining.

We are always in search of some good chocolate treats around town, so we were happy to find a terrific hot chocolate now on the menu at the Shake Shack. Thick and rich with an intense chocolate flavor, the cup ($3.75) here comes with a giant marshmallow floating on top and a piece of toffee candy on the bottom. If you’re in the neighborhood on a chilly day and you’re craving some good chocolate, you can’t go wrong with a quick hot chocolate break at Shake Shack.

Holiday: Custom Gift Baskets at Dean & DeLuca

2007-12-14T18:01:00.000-05:00

560 Broadway (at Prince Street)
212-226-6800
http://www.deandeluca.com/

We stopped by the Dean & DeLuca shop in Soho this afternoon and saw that the back of the store has been transformed to a festive create-your-own gift basket emporium. We think it’s a great idea for a unique “Made In NY” food gift.

There are a wide variety of containers to choose from, including baskets, decorated boxes, and totes. And a helpful salesperson told us that we could select items from the store and usually within two hours or so, your basket will be attractively assembled and is ready to go. Prices start at $100. Courier service is available for local deliveries and UPS for more distant locations.

A similar service is available on their website. You can select a container, and while not as exhaustive as the in-store choices, there are many worthwhile options for filling it up.

Restaurant: Les Halles

2007-12-13T09:38:00.000-05:00

411 Park Avenue South (bet. 28th and 29th Streets)
212-679-4111
http://www.leshalles.net/
http://www.opentable.com/

The name of the place is actually Brasserie Les Halles, and we sometimes go there when we have a yearning for Paris and tickets on Air France have not yet been booked. The large mirrors and the French posters inside can transport your mind to the other side of the Atlantic, and quite frankly the food here is better than a lot of the bistros in Paris.

Over the years, Les Halles has become one of our favorite NY steakhouses. The dish we almost always order is a cut of beef called hanger steak, which in French is called onglet. It is a long, thin piece of beef that can be a little bit chewy but has a real beefy flavor. Here it is quickly pan fried over a high heat to sear in the bloody juices. Served with a shallot sauce made with a rich beef stock and red wine, it comes with a pile of piping hot French fries and some mixed greens that wilt on the hot oval platter. This is a great value meal for $21, and especially hits the spot when it’s cold outside.

A unique and terrific thing about Les Halles is that you can buy the very same hanger steak from the butcher shop located at the front of the restaurant. It costs $10.50 a pound, and don’t forget to order some of the unadvertised shallot sauce for an extra $5 (roughly eight ounces). The last time we bought this rich thick brown sauce it was still warm from simmering on the stovetop. Be forewarned: the butcher shop hours are constantly changing and service can be slow.

If you look at their website you will see they now have other locations around the U.S., and you can read about the chef turned author and TV personality Anthony Bourdain. His first book, Kitchen Confidential is a fun read for anyone who wants to know what really goes on inside the professional food world.

Food Shop: Bûche de Noël at Payard

2007-12-12T11:42:00.000-05:00

1032 Lexington Avenue (bet. 73rd and 74th Streets)
212-717-5252
http://www.payard.com/

Every Christmas season, we treat ourselves to a traditional French “yule log” dessert. We’ve made them in our kitchen, bought them in Paris at patisserie Gérard Mulot, and in NY, our supplier of choice has been Payard on the Upper East Side.

We’ve dubbed François Payard, “the king of the Bûche de Noël." He sells so many, that on the day before Christmas, you don’t go inside the shop, but rather pick up your pre-ordered log outside from the back of a truck. Our favorite version is the Bagatelle, a wonderful chestnut creation (we’ve described all the choices in detail below.) To be certain of getting exactly what you want, you should pre-order, although we’ve had luck in past years by just stopping in the shop and buying one of the many extras on hand for those who didn’t plan ahead.

We stopped in at Payard yesterday to find out about this year’s prospects, and here’s what we’ve found out.

Ordering must be done by phone (212-717-5252, ext. 111) or in person, and is not available on the website. Items are available starting December 18th. All Christmas orders must be placed by 4 pm on December 22nd. Christmas pick up will be on Saturday, December 22nd (9 am to 11 pm), Sunday, December 23rd (9 am to 6 pm), and Monday, December 24th (9 am to 5 pm).

There are four sizes available, serving 4, 6, 8, and 10, priced at $26, $39, $52, and $65, respectively and the four choices are:

Louvre: chocolate mousse, hazelnut mousse and hazelnut dacquoise
Vienne: flaky sablé with dark chocolate mousse, orange marmalade and a soft caramel center
Sicilien: sablé Breton filled with cream cheese mousse, cranberry geleé and a dusting of ground Sicilien pistachios and cream cheese crumble
Bagatelle: chestnut sponge filled with chestnut mousse, candied chestnut and Mandarin geleé.

Joyeux Noël!

Wine School: Windows on the World Wine School

2007-12-11T09:48:00.000-05:00

http://www.windowswineschool.com/
845-255-1456

The wine course we personally recommend to anyone is the Windows on the World Wine School given by the enthusiastic wine expert Kevin Zraly. We went back in 2000, and to this day it remains a memorable experience.

The price of the course is now $995, and takes place at the Marriott Marquis Hotel (45th St. and Broadway). And just as we experienced, it is made up of eight two-hour classes. The first three are on white wine (French-American-German) then four classes on reds (Burgundy-Bordeaux-California-Spain/Italy) and on graduation class night the subject is Champagne & Port. Kevin’s unique instruction will alter your sensibilities about the noble grape. A lot like a favorite professor may have done when you were back in school.

To this day we still chant his mantra on how to identify wine: color, country, region, and grape. No matter where you are on the wine knowledge scale, this course is worth your attention. The wines for every class are poured before you arrive and on a typical class you have a lot of fun trying to identify a jug wine from the first growth. His knowledge about all sorts of wine varieties is amazing, and best of all Kevin Zraly is laugh-out-loud funny about the subject.

Since we are both graduates, we are still on the mailing list and have gone back years later to re-take the Burgundy and Bordeaux classes (at $100 per evening). They were that good. Kevin’s bestselling book, Windows on the World Complete Wine Course ($24.95) is very easy to read and it follows the course instruction. He recently published a new book titled, Kevin Zraly’s American Wine Guide 2008 ($12.95). Guaranteed this is one book that will be on our wish list to Santa.

Chocolate Shop: Trappistine Quality Candy

2007-12-10T11:02:00.000-05:00

1-866-549-8929
http://www.trappistinecandy.com/

Even though we have so many wonderful chocolate shops in NY, we’ve found a handful of places in other parts of the country where terrific chocolates are made. One such place is Trappistine Quality Candy in Wrentham, Massachusetts. We’ve regularly ordered from the Sisters from Mount Saint Mary’s Abbey for many years and can attest to their delicious “homemade” quality and fantastic value.

The milk chocolate butter nut munch is a dangerous box (10 oz. box, $11.75), to keep around the house. Addictive squares of almond butter crunch covered with milk chocolate and roasted hazelnuts disappear faster than a blink of an eye. Other recommended gifts are dark chocolate almond bark, fudge and for the holidays, milk and dark chocolate Santa pops for the child in all of us. And they also sell combination gift boxes if you can’t make up your mind.

We thought we’d mention Trappistine Candy, since Dec. 10 is the last day for web orders guaranteed for Christmas delivery although their order form states, “orders received after the holiday cut off date will be shipped in the order in which we receive them.” So, don’t hesitate!

Holiday: Web Order Seafood Gifts

2007-12-07T11:43:00.000-05:00

We love to go shopping around NY looking for yummy treats for Christmas gifts. But sometimes, especially for friends and family out-of-town, the web is the place to shop. Here are two of our favorites, both offering mouth-watering seafood with personal service--important because the coordination of such perishable gifts at times is best served with human interaction.

At least once or twice a year for the past five years or so, we’ve ordered the fresh, ready-to-cook Maryland-style crab cakes (but they come from Delaware) from Crab Cake Express, http://www.crabcakeexpress.com/. We’ve tried others, but keep coming back to these with the terrific jumbo lump meat. We’ve given them as gifts and have also served them for Christmas Eve dinner. They are always a hit and Scott is always helpful with the order.

The lobster meat from Hancock Gourmet Lobster in Maine is second to none, http://www.hancockgourmetlobster.com/. We love the “Downeast Lobster Rolls,” and have been both the recipient and sender of this gift. And by all accounts, they have been a great treat. One lovely couple we know reported that not only were they delicious, but they brought back wonderful memories of long ago times at the Maine coast. We’ve tried making our own lobster rolls and having them at well-known seafood places in NYC, but the ones from Hancock take first place for us.

Restaurant: The Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant

2007-12-06T11:38:00.000-05:00

Lower Level at Grand Central Station
212-490-6650
http://www.oysterbarny.com/

Lunch at the Oyster Bar, a NY classic since 1913, is arguably one of the most authentic eating experiences in the Big Apple. For the best time, be sure and visit on a regular business day during the noon to 2 pm lunch period.

The typical New Yorker who comes here will never bother with a reservation, but just walks in and sits at one of the horseshoe-shaped counters or at the higher barstools along the wall facing the busy oyster shuckers. It’s here you can watch the oyster stew cook doing his thing, but it gets repetitive after a couple of bowls. We prefer to sit at the middle horseshoe counter so we take in all the action in and around the open kitchen—a show of organized mayhem where they have a “kitchen MC” who uses a microphone to bark out the orders for the team of cooks. With the small army of waiters and waitresses coming and going it looks like Grand Central Terminal at rush hour.

At this time of day the acoustics of the place with its renowned vaulted ceilings can be deafening, but that just adds to the ambience. We always start our meal with a bowl of clam chowder. The tomato-based Manhattan or the creamy white New England are both excellent. Then it is a question of how hungry you happen to be. A main fish course, or perhaps something from the sandwich menu, or sometimes we just have raw oysters like the local Bluepoint variety. The classic oyster stew or the zesty pan roast, are fine one-dish meals. Another favorite is the fried oyster sandwich called the Po’ Boy. The ladies who work these counters know how to get the lone diners in and out in a matter of minutes, but if you are with someone and want to leisurely finish your white wine, that is okay too.

When paying the tab, be sure and take note of the cashier who stands in a tiny booth right near the door. He’s been a fixture of the place for as long as we remember, and is a quintessential New York character who helps to make the Oyster Bar such a classic.

Food Shop: Schaller & Weber

2007-12-05T06:23:00.001-05:00

1654 Second Avenue (between 85th and 86th Streets)
212-879-3047
http://www.schallerweber.com/

Schaller & Weber is the kind of ethnic food shop that makes NY a great eating town. This big sparkling clean store to us defines old Yorkville—the neighborhood that once was known for its large population of German immigrants.

At the long counter there is a lot to choose from starting with ham, wieners, sausages and smoked meats. The Canadian bacon and the cucumber salad are always on our list when it is our turn to order. All the countermen have a long standing tradition of offering a slice of bologna to children that wait on line with their parents. We patronize S&W more in the fall when the weather is cool and it is time to make a steaming platter of choucroute. On their website you can find a recipe, but to us, it is a personal preference of what type of smoked meats you like piled on top of braised sauerkraut.

Another favorite, when it is cold outside and you are in no mood to cook, is the homemade sauerbraten with gravy and their fresh made spätzle. We were told restaurants order these delicious noodles to serve as their own.

A good snack before the choucroute or any tasty meal from S&W is a bag of their homemade soft pretzels. They are so fresh; it is almost guaranteed they will be eaten up quickly. They are far better than the pretzels sold by NY street vendors.

Wine Shop: Mister Wright – Fine Wines & Spirits

2007-12-04T06:49:00.000-05:00

1593 Third Avenue (bet. 89th and 90th Streets)
212-722-4564
Website under construction
Hours: Monday through Saturday 9AM – 9:30PM; Sunday 1PM – 6:45PM

In the big discount store category there is not a friendlier wine shop in NY than Mister Wright. It is rather refreshing compared to the places where the clerks have a know-it-all attitude, and don’t even pretend to listen to anything you have to say. So when walking around the store, do not be surprised by the number of times you are approached and asked if you need any help. Sometimes we will have a small question ready so not to disappoint the eager staff. This will also clue you in on the knowledge base of the clerk. If Jody is on the floor you will be in very good hands. She knows her wine and always has a recommendation on a good value bottle. Recently it was Argentinean Malbacs.

We use Mister Wright to buy a lot of our everyday drinking wine. They do not have a website. Nor do they mail out any promotional material. But with a big selection of labels not found in other stores this size, and a 10% case discount on still wine, you can do well here.

When the Wall Street Journal recently published a story on Spanish reds from the Ribera del Duero, we showed the piece to Jody and she quickly pointed us to two of the bottles that were reviewed. At other shops, usually you can never even find one listed in this type of article. The same thing occurred after we ate at A Voce and had a delicious Tuscan red, Le Volte, which was recommended by the sommelier. We found the 2005 was at Mister Wright for $27.99.

Mister Wright has a free case delivery policy in Manhattan. The delivery guys always in their Mister Wright orange sweatshirts have the same wanting-to-please attitude. So don’t be surprised if the case you bought beats you home.

Chocolate Shop: Jacques Torres comes to the Upper West Side

2007-12-03T06:19:00.000-05:00

285 Amsterdam Avenue (bet. 73rd and 74th Streets)
No telephone yet
http://www.jacquestorres.com/

On Saturday morning, when we pulled into a parking spot on Amsterdam Avenue, between 73rd and 74th Streets, to what did our wondering eyes appear, but a new Jacques Torres chocolate shop! Open only about three weeks, the façade still was under construction, but inside all was sparkling. The chandeliers were hung and the shelves around the store were stacked with irresistible goodies.

On one side of the shop, there is a long, wavy wooden bar with Jacques Torres’ mouthwatering chocolate creations on display, and right now that includes attractive chocolate Santas and a nice selection of bon-bons, some decorated for the December holidays ($55 for a box of 50). On the other side, there is a coffee/hot chocolate bar. We tried the classic hot chocolate ($3.25), which really hit the spot on what seemed like the first cold morning of the season. Service was very helpful. Walking around the shop we felt like a wonderful Parisian chocolate shop had been brightened, updated and then transported to the Upper West Side. What a terrific and much-needed addition to this neighborhood.

Eight Ideas for Hanukkah

2007-11-30T14:00:00.000-05:00

For the table, the Jewish Museum New York gift shop at Fifth Avenue and 92nd Street sells a colorful and festive round “Happy Hanukkah” platter designed by Jessica Sporn for $30. And the neighboring design store has a small hand-hammered stainless steel bowl with an oxidized bronzed olive branch designed by artist Michael Aram for $70. http://www.jewishmuseum.org/

Burdick Chocolates, one of our all-time favorite chocolatiers, is selling their delicious chocolates presented in their signature wooden boxes and festively wrapped for Hanukkah. Priced from $18-$61 and only available by shipping. http://www.burdickchocolate.com/

We think the beautiful hand delivered fruit baskets from Manhattan Fruitier will add a sophisticated and festive touch to the holiday table, and the contents can be devoured after the party. Prices start at $55. http://www.manhattanfruitier.com/

For many years, Li-Lac Chocolates, with locations now in Greenwich Village and Grand Central has sold yummy milk chocolate gelt. This year it’s $17.50/lb., and they also are selling a chocolate driedel that is filled with the same chocolate gelt for $7.95. http://www.li-lacchocolates.com/

Any cut of prime beef that we get from L. Simchick is always delicious, and is worth an excursion to the Sutton Place neighborhood. If you’re cooking your own, the trimmed brisket there is $8.99/lb. 988 First Avenue (bet. 54th-55th Streets), 212-888-2299.

If jelly donuts are your tradition, we can recommend the Doughnut Plant on the Lower East Side. Check their website (under “Contact” ) for other shops around town where they’re sold as well. http://www.doughnutplant.com/

Lobel’s, the famously expensive Upper East Side Butcher sells fresh potato latkes for $2.50 each. They have to be the least expensive item in the store. http://www.lobels.com/

Eli Zabar’s website has two sizes of Hanukkah gift baskets, priced at $100 and $150. They are also made to order at E.A.T. at 1064 Madison Avenue. You can call in the morning and have one ready later in the day. http://www.elizabar.com/store-baskets14.html

Food Finds: Bargain EV Olive Oil

2007-11-29T17:57:00.000-05:00

Available at Gourmet Garage
http://www.gourmetgarage.com/

Last week, near the entrance in the Gourmet Garage on E. 96th Street, there was a diminutive woman dressed in chef whites. She was standing behind a small table with a basket filled with bread chunks. Next to the bread were one-litre bottles of extra virgin olive oil. The name of the oil was Olave. It was a very pale green and came from Chile. It had a sweet, fresh taste and the best part was the unbelievable promotional price of $9.99 a bottle. We just tried it this week on a salad and it was terrific—comparable in quality to good EV oils that we’ve had from Italy. The price goes up to $16.99 on December 1, which is still a bargain considering the skyrocketing prices of European olive oils.

Wine Shop: Sherry-Lehmann

2007-11-28T14:39:00.000-05:00

505 Park Avenue (at 59th Street)
212-838-7500
http://www.sherry-lehmann.com/

If you have not made a visit to Sherry-Lehmann at its new location on the corner of Park Avenue and E. 59th street, now is the time. Every NY wine lover knows their familiar shopping bag with the row of French Can-Can girls. To us, the old place on Madison Avenue had a dark dungeon-like feel to it, making it difficult to read labels and price tags. The new store has a much brighter up-to-date look, yet has a lived-in quality with a classic wood panel interior.

As always, the store is a museum of wine treasures. Nobody can dispute that this is a top place in NY to buy high-quality wine. If you are looking for a special gift bottle, this is a place to come. But also we’ve been very satisfied with some of their exclusive case offerings of moderately priced wines, which are generally announced to people on their mailing list and by looking at their website. For years, we’ve ordered from these selections and truly find them to be a terrific value.

In order to make shopping at Sherry-Lehmann a more pleasant experience, our advice is to do your homework on their website before you go. Jot down vintages, prices and the bin numbers, or else you could be in for an interesting transaction. This is simply because you never know what kind of service you will encounter. Over the years we have experienced both ends of the spectrum. We stopped by twice in the past week, and found seasonal salespersons all over the floor, mostly helpful without any pretense about wine. But be warned as it gets closer to Christmas and New Year’s, the store will no doubt be jam-packed during peak hours.

During one of our recent visits, Sherry-Lehmann Chairman Michael Aaron was giving a personal tour to a VIP-type friend and the temptation was too great not to listen in on the conversation. So now you know that one of the owner’s favorite sections is the display of oversized wine bottles right in the back row. We had to agree. Perhaps this year you can be Santa to someone with an Imperial (eight-bottle size) Chateau Beychevelle ($495) under their Christmas tree.

Restaurant: A Voce

2007-11-27T20:24:00.000-05:00

41 Madison Avenue (at 26th Street)
212-545-8555
www.opentable.com
www.avocerestaurant.com

Worldwide Italian wine consumption is exploding thanks in large part to the popularity of Italian food and restaurants. We learned this interesting fact at an Italian wine lecture that was held at the NYU Stern Alumni conference this past June at La Pietra in Florence, Italy. So when we returned home to NY—which is to us the food capital of the world—we wanted to go back and eat at our current favorite NY Italian restaurant.

A Voce is that place. In Italian it means, “word of mouth.” This is modern Italian cooking with a NY twist. Even though the cuisine is very sophisticated here, one of our favorite dishes is called, “My Grandmother’s Meat Ravioli.” So if you are a pasta lover, this is also your kind of place too.

We remember when Chef Andrew Carmellini was cooking uptown at Café Boulud. For years, this was always our #1 choice in Chef Daniel Boulud's empire of establishments. So when Chef Carmellini went out on his own, we were sure to follow to see what he was up to. Since then, we’ve had several meals at A Voce and always had a great time.

The boss of the dining room is maître d' is Dante Camara, who always wears a big smile you when you walk in. At our last meal he gave us a table by the window because we told him when we made the reservation it was our anniversary. We ordered a perfectly cooked sliced duck breast with roasted figs, and the most delicious marinated chicken breast topped with outrageous looking tomato foam.

After you place your order be sure and have a discussion with the wine director, Oliver Flosse, a native of Marseille, France. When we told him what we were having, he picked out the most delicious Italian red, the 2004 Le Volte, from Tuscany.

The meal ended with a citrus tiramisu made with a Meyer lemon crema that was smooth as silk and a chocolate caramel tartino. There is also a nice selection of Italian cheeses to end the meal.

Food Shop: Bouchon Bakery

2007-11-26T17:51:00.000-05:00

10 Columbus Circle
212-823-9363

The Best Brioche Rolls

Last Wednesday, we discovered the best brioche rolls that we ever had at Bouchon Bakery. On a lark, we stopped in at this terrific shop at the Time Warner Center, hoping to find some interesting bread to serve with our Thanksgiving meal, and were delighted to find these little glistening gems nestled in a Bouchon box. Sold only by the dozen ($9), they were made especially for the holiday, but the pleasant staff assured us that the small brioche loaf ($4.50) that is offered on a regular basis is made from the same recipe. And we’re hoping that the rolls will be back during the December holiday season.

If you haven’t already been to Bouchon Bakery, it certainly is worth a detour if you’re in the neighborhood. They also sell a mouth-watering selection of viennoisseries and pastries, and offer soup, sandwiches and salads to go.

A bit of a recap of our Thanksgiving hits and misses. The turkey from Schatzie was absolutely delicious. We were disappointed in the Pugliese Vineyards sparkling wine, but did think the Bedell Cellars 2005 Reserve Merlot was terrific and went extremely well with the Thanksgiving feast. Pat’s rendition of Bill Yosses’ pignoli tart was a good sturdy effort, but not memorable.

Wine Shop: America's Wine Shop

2007-11-20T11:47:00.000-05:00

398 3rd Avenue (bet. 28th and 29th Streets)
212-679-1224
http://www.americaswineshop.com/

A Source for Long Island Wines

A quest for a special Long Island sparkling wine for Thanksgiving led us yesterday to America’s Wine Shop (aka McAdam Buy-Rite). It all started on Friday when we read an article in the Wall Street Journal about small-production American bubbly (http://online.wsj.com/article/SB119518541093895468.html). We were especially intrigued by one of the recommended wines, the Pugliese Vineyards Blanc de Noir Nature 2000, and since we were already planning on a Bedell Cellars Merlot for our holiday meal (also from the North Fork of Long Island) this sparkler promised to make an excellent start to the Thanksgiving meal.

When we called up Pugliese Vineyards, we were told that there was only one shop in NYC to carry it, “go to McAdams,” was the direct order! So, off we went, and sure enough, there was a large sheet of paper pasted in the window that claims the McAdam Buy-Rite liquor store has the largest selection of Long Island wines anywhere in the world.

If not for the sign, from the outside you would never know this place specializes in anything. It looks like a run-of-the-mill neighborhood liquor store. The harsh yellow lights coming from the sign over the place says it is a “Buy-Rite” discount store. Inside confusion reigns and boxes are everywhere. And to find wine bottles not covered with dust is a challenge. But all of the Long Island wines are there on the first aisle right when you walk in.

Our advice is to immediately ask for help. If Scott is on the floor you will be in good hands. The gruff check-out guy was another story altogether. He claimed the Long Island list was around 300. Who knows? But we did get exactly what we were looking for: the Pugliese sparkler ($19.99) and the 2005 Bedell Cellars Reserve ($26.99). And as a bonus, Scott enthusiastically suggested a wine to go with Thanksgiving desserts: a 2003 late harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Paumanok Vineyards ($29.99).

We’re off for the Thanksgiving holiday and will be back on Monday.

Recipe: Bill Yosses' Pignoli Tart

2007-11-19T08:54:00.000-05:00

Back in the 1990's when we published The NY Food Letter, we asked Bill Yosses, then pastry chef at Bouley, and now the pastry chef at the White House, for a Thanksgiving dessert recipe. He suggested his Pignoli Tart, saying, "It's a nice change from pecan pie." Flavored with an apple compote and pistachio cream, this original creation will make a wonderful finish to your holiday meal.

Note: when shopping for pignoli (pine) nuts, be sure to buy ones that come from Spain or Italy, which are elongated in appearance unlike the squat, more commonly found and less expensive variety from China. There is a big difference in flavor and we never use the inferior ones from China.

This tart is made of four different layers. It can be made one day ahead, in which case you should wrap it well and store it at room temperature. If you refrigerate it, make sure it is tightly wrapped with cellophane paper. Bill recommends that home chefs use a kitchen scale to measure ingredients rather than standard measures. It's just as easy and yields more precise results. We've included both measures.

Makes one 10-inch tart

Pignoli Sable Dough
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) pignolis
2 1/4 oz. (or 5/8 cup) confectioner's sugar
5 oz. (or 10 Tbs.) butter
9 oz. (or 2 1/4 cups) cake flour
1 oz. (or 1/8 cup) Sauternes, Malvasia or other sweet wine

Preheat the oven to 375°. Coarsely chop the nuts in a food processor. In a mixer, using the paddle attachment, mix the butter with the sugar and nuts until smooth and creamy. Mix in the flour and then add the wine, little by little until the dough comes together. Using a spatula, spread a 10-inch circle of the dough onto a parchment-lined sheet pan (or use a 10-inch ring mold). Bake for about 15-18 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool while you prepare the apple compote.

Apple Compote
2 Winesap, Macoun or Golden apples
1 oz (or 1/8 cup + 1 tsp.) granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 vanilla bean

Peel, core and cut each apple into six equal-size pieces and place in a stovetop casserole. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise and use a small spoon to scrape out the seeds. In a small saucepan mix together the water, sugar and the vanilla seeds. Bring to a boil, and cook until it becomes syrupy. Pour the mixture over the apples, cover and simmer over a low heat for about 7-10 minutes or until the apples are tender yet still maintaining their shape. Chop the apple mixture until it becomes spreadable. Spread the compote onto the dough and allow to cool.

Pistachio Cream
2 1/4 oz. (or 1/2 cup) shelled pistachio nuts
2 1/4 oz. (or 3/8 cup) granulated sugar
2 1/4 oz. (or 4 1/2 Tbs.) butter
1 egg

Chop the pistachios in a food processor until fine. Incorporate the granulated sugar and then the butter. When the mixture is soft, add the egg. Mix until smooth and spread onto the compote. Bake the tart again for about 15 minutes or until a crust forms on the pistachio cream. Remove to cool.

Pignoli Topping
9 oz (or 2 cups) pignolis
1 oz. (or 2 Tbs.) butter
1 oz (or 1/8 cup) honey
1 sprig fresh rosemary

Lower the oven to 325°. On a low flame, saute the pignolis in the butter, honey and rosemary until golden brown. Remove the sprig and place the nuts over the pistachio cream layer and bake an additional 10 minutes. Allow to cool before serving.

Serving Suggestion:
Reheat the tart to warm it through and serve with vanilla ice cream.

Food Shop: Morgiewicz Produce

2007-11-16T06:51:00.000-05:00

Produce Pick for Thanksgiving

57th Street Greenmarket

Wednesdays and Saturdays, 8AM to 6PM
9th Avenue and 57th Street

We’ve been going to the 57th Street Greenmarket on Saturday mornings this fall. Although there are only a handful of vendors, it’s a nice change from the packed crowds at Union Square. We have nothing against dogs, strollers and cameras, and have ourselves been guilty of all three, but sometimes, it seems, well, just too much of a scene.

So, we were happy to discover Morgiewicz Produce at this calm neighborhood Greenmarket on the border of Hell’s Kitchen. With their extensive selection and terrific quality, we decided this is where we’ll be buying our Thanksgiving produce this year. The owner told us that the soil in Goshen, NY, where they are located, is particularly rich in nutrients and is not the least bit sandy. And to us, the colors and flavors seem just a bit more intense than the usual fare.

Service is always helpful and the prices overall seem to be a tad lower than many of the other farm stands we visit around at the Greenmarkets. Look for a variety of squashes—we made an easy soup with their excellent cheese pumpkin. You’ll also find Brussels sprouts, all kinds of greens, multiple types of potatoes and onions, herbs, celery root, and fennel, just to start the list. The day before Thanksgiving will be their last Wednesday of the season, but they hope to keep up the Saturday schedule until shortly before Christmas.

And if you need local seasonal fruit, the neighboring stand, Toigo Orchards, sells very good apples and pears, albeit a bit pricey.

Wine Shops: Beaujolais Nouveau Day

2007-11-15T07:08:00.000-05:00

Found at Wine Shops All Around NY Today

Today is the official release date for the wine that is called Beaujolais Nouveau. No matter where you go in NY, wine shops will have it out on prominent display. This is more the result of good French public relations work than the quality of the product. Beaujolais Nouveau is a light and fruity red that was harvested literally weeks ago. The grapes come from the picturesque vines of the southern Burgundy countryside. Every year on the third Thursday of November we buy a bottle, chill it up, and drink it the same night with dinner. You will find it goes well with a hamburger or a pizza. Expect to pay about $10 a bottle now, and probably a dollar or two less than that in a few weeks.

The release of this wine is supposed to signify the end of the fall harvest. For us, Beaujolais Nouveau Day is sort of an anniversary. In 1994, we wrote about the Nouveau for the New York Daily News. As a result of that story and the big picture of the Georges Duboeuf “flower label” that ran next to it, we were invited to the Beaujolais Nouveau kick-off luncheon at the Rainbow Room. They sat us up front with all of the food and wine dignitaries from France and NY. It was a blast. So tonight we again toast our memory of that event with a bottle of the new vintage.

Food Shop: Schatzie’s Prime Meats

2007-11-14T08:17:00.000-05:00

The Best Thanksgiving Turkey
1200 Madison Avenue (bet. East 87th-88th Streets)
212-410-1555

We have lived on the East Side and the West Side, Brooklyn and Hell’s Kitchen, and are always ready for an excursion to a different neighborhood butcher shop. These are the places that help make NY a food town. But now after more than two decades of cooking a fresh-killed turkey on Thanksgiving Day, we can say the best source for that once-a-year big bird is Schatzie the butcher. His tiny shop is located on Madison Avenue just off East 88h Street.

Schatzie is a character. Check him out on YouTube.

The better you get to know him the more his charming but crude sense of humor comes pouring out. Guaranteed you will leave his store with a smile. Right before Thanksgiving, Schatzie rents two refrigerated trucks that are parked right out front of the store just to handle the orders. The operation pick-up with the huge lists of names on the wall is well run. It is very festive in a NY sort of way.

All he will tell you is that the turkeys come from a farm in Pennsylvania. It doesn’t matter. The roast turkey will have terrifically moist breast meat with a delicious flavor. Standard sizes range from 12 to 32 lbs. with the 18/20 size being the most popular, and there’s even an order this year for a 40-lb. bird. The cost is $3.98 per lb. You can also order an already cooked 18/20 lb. turkey with all the trimmings for $249, but that was never our style. We always use the traditional James Beard recipes especially for the pine nut stuffing. How can you improve on the true American classic dinner?

Restaurants: Thanksgiving Reservations Made Easy

2007-11-13T15:03:00.000-05:00

http://www.opentable.com/

Every year, on the fourth Thursday in November, without fail, we’re out early at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. We head uptown to catch the parade near its starting point, ensuring that we’re back home well before noon. Then, we tune into Channel 4 (or 704 this year in HD?), and we re-watch the end of the parade all while we start our own culinary festivities, taking us into the very late afternoon before our meal is finally on the table. It’s a fun tradition, but who sometimes doesn’t fantasize about just letting someone else do the cooking? Or maybe you’re in town just for the holiday and a restaurant reservation is in order.

We think the folks at http://www.opentable.com/ did a great job this year organizing the details of Thanksgiving menus around town. Gone are the days of thinking about which places might be worth going to and then calling around to see what the menus are like and how much they’ll cost. Just scan the Thanksgiving 2007 link on their home page, and see what appeals to you and how much you’re willing to spend. Your reservation is only a few clicks away.

We’re firm believers that Thanksgiving should be about serving American food and wine, and using local ingredients wherever possible. So, if we had to choose from this restaurant list, our top pick this year would be Porter House New York http://www.porterhousenewyork.com/. We think the chef, Michael Lomonaco, does a terrific job serving up American classics with flair. And the setting at the Time Warner Center with its windows overlooking Columbus Circle is particularly appealing on this festive day in New York City. We had a terrific lunch there early in the year, during NYC Restaurant Week. And the meals at the 21 Club for us were at their best when Michael was at the helm. We’d be happy to leave our Thanksgiving meal in his capable hands, but then what would we do with that turkey we ordered from Schatzie? More on that tomorrow…

Wine Shop: Tinto Fino

2007-11-12T16:11:00.000-05:00

Vinos de España
85 First Avenue (bet. 5th & 6th Streets)
212-254-0850
http://www.tintofino.com/

If you’re interested in discovering Spanish wines outside of the more typical riojas found in NY wine shops, then head over to the East Village and go to Tinto Fino, a tiny gem of a shop that opened about a year ago. Grouped by geographic region, there are usually about 150 different wines in stock, many of which you won’t find at any other wine store in New York.

When we were there today, the selection seemed mostly skewed to what we call “special occasion” wines ($20-$30+), i.e., not in our everyday budget. But salesperson Stephanie said that she was just about to replenish after the weekend, since the shop tries to have representation in the $7-15 range as well. Stephanie was knowledgeable, helpful, and enthusiastic without being the least bit overbearing. Shortly after we walked into the shop, she offered us a taste of this week’s featured wine, the Descendientes Pétalos 2006 Bierzo, ($23) which she explained is made from mencía, an indigenous Spanish grape. The featured wine is offered at a 10% discount, and the store usually offers tastings once a week.

Tinto Fino has just launched a new website, and is offering 15% off all wines purchased online (minimum of 6 bottles) in November. If you visit, bear in mind that the store keeps “East Village” hours, currently 12PM to 10PM Monday through Saturday; and 1PM to 9PM on Sunday.

Event: Chocolate Show

2007-11-09T17:30:00.000-05:00

November 9-11, 2007
Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building
125 West 18th Street (bet. 6th & 7th Avenues)
http://www.chocolateshow.com/

I went to the annual Chocolate Show New York this afternoon. Bill declined my invitation; apparently he was the wiser.

The show opened at 11 AM; I got there at 1:30PM. Admission was $28 (cash only) and it was quite packed. And as crowded and uncomfortable as it was for me today, I expect it will only be more so over the weekend.

There were more than 60 booths hosted by companies from all over the country and some importers as well. Only a handful of well known New York City chocolatiers set up camp: Jacques Torres, Payard, and Christopher Norman, and only Jacques Torres was offering samples. The other two had “run out.”

A few things were of interest. Mary’s Chocolatier of Tokyo (http://www.mary.co.jp/) was quite good and had a team of artists demonstrating their “seasonal flower” decorating techniques. Theo Chocolate (http://www.theochocolate/) from Seattle offered a generous array of tastings of their fine fair trade certified chocolate bars. But beyond that, there wasn’t much I could get too excited about.

Here are other things I did see: an artist selling a collage of wrappers from chocolate that she had eaten ($6,000—I am not making this up); a “fashion show” of mannequins all of whom had some component of their costume made in chocolate; Capital One trying to get attendees to sign up for a credit card in exchange for a free fleece blanket; and an adult walking around in a monkey costume (a tie-in to a peanut butter product).

Coincidentally and by contrast, we were walking around SoHo yesterday afternoon and stopped in at three charming and different chocolate shops within a 10-minute radius of each other: Kee’s, MarieBelle, and Vosges. The latter two graciously offered samples of their confections, and MarieBelle even gave us small cups of hot chocolate. At Kee’s we bought two exquisite chocolates ($2.16 each) that were freshly made that day. It was a delightful and rewarding mini-chocolate tour for a New York chocolate lover.

We’ll return to a Spanish theme with our next report on Monday.

--PMM

Food Shop: Despaña

2007-11-08T18:05:00.000-05:00

408 Broome Street (between Lafayette and Centre Streets)
212-219-5050
www.despananyc.com

We love this appealing Spanish import food shop with a SoHo vibe. Opened just last year, we think it’s become an instant NYC food classic.

Part of the fun of Despaña is just walking around and trying the products. Samples are generously offered throughout the store. Last visit we tasted four cheeses, three meats, red pepper spread, olive oils, vinegars and a fantastic and intriguing cactus-banana confiture.

When we were there on Thursday at lunchtime, the two men behind the counter were in perpetual motion, one slicing ham, and the other weighing and cutting cheeses. This shop carries 55 kinds of cheese imported from Spain and an assortment of meats including Serrano ham and their own chorizo sausages.

Despaña calls them “bocadillos,” but we just call them some of the best sandwiches around. Served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread (our current vote for NYC’s best bread--more on this another day), there are about a dozen choices, most costing $8, and all feature ingredients for sale in the shop. Do try the terrific “picante,” served warm, and made with spicy chorizo, Mahon cheese, Basque guindilla peppers, tomatoes and aioli. They also serve a limited selection of tapas, Pintxos (little dishes from the Basque region) and desserts. There’s limited seating to eat there—three small marble countertops each with two stools, and a wooden bench out front.

The floor-to-ceiling shelves lining one wall of the store are well stocked with sweet and savory staples, cookware including paella pans, and even cookbooks. Quality is tops at Despaña, and the prices fairly reflect that.

Restaurant: Pamplona

2007-11-07T14:34:00.000-05:00

37 E. 28th Street (bet. Park & Madison Avenues)
212-213-2328
http://www.pamplonanyc.com/
http://www.opentable.com/

Dining at Pamplona Last Night
Funny to open up the New York Times this morning to read Frank Bruni’s review of Pamplona. We were just there for dinner last night with our friend Steve Geerts of John Varvatos and had an all round terrific meal. For years, we’ve considered Alex Ureña to be in the top echelon of New York City chefs, yet one who never quite gets the recognition that we think he deserves. We hope that Mr. Bruni’s favorable review will encourage more people to try Alex’s new venue.

Why You Should Go
Pamplona is a casual place serving seriously good Spanish food. Prices are extremely reasonable considering the quality delivered. What comes on the plate is the one but absolutely compelling reason to make your reservation at Pamplona. Keep in mind that the décor is very simple, neither exciting nor offensive. Service is okay; if last night’s dinner is any indication, it can be pleasant, but not always attentive and at times quite slow.

The Menu
It seems you can’t miss by starting to nibble on the tapas, little dishes in the $4-6 range. Just pick what sounds appealing to you. Last night we sampled various meats (embutidos) and cheese balls (quesos). All absolutely delicious! Moving on, we all loved our first courses, trying three different choices: the poached shrimp with creamy Manchego rice and fresh chorizo sauce, the cured tuna sliced thin with sobreasada aioli, and the truffle oil poached egg with white asparagus salad, fresh chorizo and pimiento del piquillo sauce. Expect to pay in the $9-14 range for your first course.

Sea scallops with salsify, shiitake mushrooms morcilla, Cantipalo, Vizcaina ($24), the slow cooked chicken with artichoke-truffle puree and oyster mushrooms ($20), and the “hamburguesa,” a beef suckling pig and chorizo burger server with salad and fries ($18) were our main course selections.

The burger was addictive and like nothing any of us ever tasted. Alex explained that he uses a lesser known soft chorizo as one of the ingredients. (In fact, while “chorizo” appears all over the menu, Alex explained that he actually works with nine different varieties in Pamplona’s menu.) Steve insisted he was coming back over the weekend to eat the burger again! The scallop dish disappeared in a New York minute. Only some of the chicken was left on the plate. It was incredibly rich and too intensely truffled for our taste, especially after all that we had already eaten.

We looked at the dessert menu, but the choices did not leave us feeling compelled to order anything. Perhaps next time we’ll try, but Mr. Bruni’s comments today led some credibility to our gut reaction to take a pass.

The Bar/Cocktails/Wine List
There is an appealing, comfortable bar when you walk in. Last night while waiting for our friend to arrive we witnessed a solo diner having a terrific time ordering up several tapas and an appetizer (entrada) while sipping a glass of red wine. The amiable bartender gave him a second glass on the house. We would think it would be a great place to meet up, and even if you can’t stay for dinner, just have a glass of wine and some tapas. There are some house cocktails with a Spanish accent, house Sangria, and a wine list dedicated exclusively to Spanish wines.

On a Personal Note
We’ve been longtime fans of Chef Alex Ureña, and he and his wife Martine, who runs the dining room, have always been sincerely appreciative of our compliments and repeat visits over the years.

We first met Alex at Marseille in Hell’s Kitchen in 2000, followed him to Suba on the Lower East Side a few years ago and visited Ureña last year. Five weeks ago, Alex and Martine reopened the space into the current Pamplona (and had a baby girl six weeks ago!) Say hello to Martine when you come in & tell her that Pat & Bill sent you. If she’s not there, then ask the waitstaff to let Chef Alex know.